are you waiting for one temp bar to begin ??

[jlabro]

in the manual says that we should get going with the bike immediately after starting the engine.

Having done this but it is too difficult to change gear ! (1-2)

Should we wait for at least the first bar at the temp to get going ??

Any thoughts in this ??

 

[GSmonkey]

I get on the bike, get if off the sidestand, press the starter then go. The general recommendation with cars and bikes is to go rather than leaving the engine to idle on cold oil.

The only time I don't do this is when I've just cleaned the bike, I let it warm up to dry, probably not a good thing for internals, but good for the externals - plus once a week ain't gonna kill it.

I too had cold gear selection problems with the GS until I altered the gear selector. I found that moving it down as far as it would go, without fouling the sidestand gave best operation of the gears. This is obviously dependant upon how tall you are / style of boots - but the point is you can 'adjust' this problem out. I rarely get a false neutral now.

 

[Cheesy Mike]

I generally start the bike then open the gate,put my helmet and gloves on then ride off. This gives it about 90 seconds to warm up. Then I ride carefully through the village 30mph limit at lower revs. By the time I reach the national speed limit the bike is warmed up to the first bar and I can use it like it should be used. (1150, so your mileage may vary etc)

Mike

 

[jimbo]

I think the recognosed wisdom ,is let the engine idle for 20 seconds or so to ensure oil has got everywhere and ride off.
Keep the rev down until warm.

 

[laughingBob]

I generally start the bike wheel it out into the drive, put my gloves on and go. Takes less than a minute but, gets the oil circulating. I keep the revs below 4k until I see the big black block appear on the temp gauge and it's up to normal running temperature.

 

[GSmonkey]

I've got to back mine out of the garage, so I guess it takes me about 30 seconds to 'GO'. Like Bob I keep the revs down 'till the big blob appears.

There's a fella at work that makes me cringe every evening. He's got some Suzuki 400cc racebike and every night he starts it up, rides the first 20yrds out of the office slowley then just guns it down the road up to maybe 12-14k rpm. I wouldn't by a bike off him!!

 

[blackburnlee]

Yep, I have to say that I agree with the previous replies. I start up then stick my helmet& gloves on. The bike isn't showing the first bar when I ride off and the 1-2 change is stiff to begin with but within a minute things are back to normal.

I then keep it below 3000 rpm until the large block appears then its all system go.

Simple really.

 

[jlabro]

thanx a lot mates.

This means i probably do the right things

 

[Deleted account W]

I prefer to start the bike, rev it like hell to annoy my neighbours and tear off down the street like a madman

 

[Dinger]

I usually start it up and go. The gear change 1-2 is murder for the first couple of changes but after that it's dead slick.

 

[Dave Price]

The engine/gearbox is seperate, so unlike most motorcycles engines, the gearbox oil isn't going to warm up that quickly. I think its best to ride off straight away, but avoid revving the engine too much until its up to temp/

 

[smartrider]

Air cooled engines should not be idled when cold becouse of the temperature difference between the inlet side and the exhaust side. If you think about it the exhaust gets very hot almost immediatly. so on these boxers the front is very hot ,the back is cold. this could cause the heads to warp.

There is not a problem when the whole engine is up to operating temp.

This is why BMW say Start it and ride off, do not idle a cold engine.

Having said all that I have been told by one BMW salesperson that it is safe to idle it for about 2 minutes. Note he was a salesperson not a Tech.

Personaly, I Get kit on, get bike out of garage, face it out of drive, get on, tun on , wait for system check, press button, into gear and go. keep revs under 4 k for about a mile, then GO.