Around Ireland with no waterproofs!!

[Timolgra]

This was to be our second trip to Ireland this year..

The first one, a couple of months ago was to Ange's late father's home place on Achill Island where 'Vic' had lived from 1935 until around 17 yrs old.
He passed away last year leaving Ange two pairs of sock with his name sewn into them, we took them everywhere en route and in fact they shared our trip, although that's for another report, here's part of that story before our latest journey.

We stayed at Ange's Uncle's house on Achill where he was reunited with his brothers socks.

'Socks' were taken to some of Vic's boyhood haunts

On pilgrimage

Always travelling with a devoted daughter

At the beach

To the very place he nearly lost his life when a horse and cart went over the edge causing him to break a hip ultimately leading him to England for treatment.
He always told Ange the big scar on his hip was from a spear wound recieved fighting in a war, she only found out the truth when she was in her 20's

The hill in the background was where Vic and his brother were sent to watch out for submarines during WWII

Socks often joined us for chowder

Guiness

And breakfast

Times were tough on Achill and elsewhere during the late 30's and 40's, Vic was one of 10 siblings who when old enough would walk 5 miles to school in bare feet for much of the year, shoes were only to be used during winter.

So it's perhaps poignant that comfy Socks should accompany us during easier times

Some coincidence that around 8 years ago and before I even knew Ange, her Uncle's house is in the background of this pic taken when I was riding to the top of the Minaun mountain on Achill.

 

[Timolgra]

This time we decided to set off from our home in North Wales ride down the Welsh coast calling at my own child hood haunts near Cardigan before crossing over to Rosslare and return 10 days later from Belfast.

Glorious weather on the way prompted a stop a Aberaeron .....where 'someone' tries to get in on the photo

Calling in at Mwnt

And it's lovely beach where I'd have played as a nipper

On to Llechryd where we used to live and my happiest childhood days are from.
We'd spend hours around the river Teifi, fishing, canoeing, nicking Coracles, tickling 'Sewin' ....... and some of the girls.

As a 10 yr old I'd probably cut eels heads off right where Ange is sat

Up river a bit to Cenarth Falls, famous for it's Salmon (not Eric), I remember seeing fisherman carrying their catch which must've been ooh eight foot long.
Locals tell me fish numbers have dropped dramatically since those days, the water's low at the moment and they're waiting for the Salmon to to move up stream when levels rise.

Heading back to the coast to overlook Poppet Sands, Alun Williams and I cycled there from Llechryd and almost got caught by the tide, we rode back through the incoming sea water and my dad made me strip and regrease all the bearings on my bike after bollocking me.

Enough of this nostalgic nonsense.

Next morning with plenty of time to kill before the ferry we explore a few quiet places

Out to Strumble Head

I won't go into detail but it seems over the years I caused Ange acute paranoia when getting on a ferry, not helped by me telling her that bikes went on the side of the ship over plank, oh and that when boarding the channel tunnel the train doesn't stop etc....... anyway you'd have to know her to understand the terror she felt when confronted with this ramp to board ..... I was even accused of tittering

We wake early in Wexford with perfect weather and set off for Allihies, on the Beara Peninsular, W Cork.

 

[Wolfgang]

Tim,
My girlfriend's from Achill Sound.Family name Dowling,any relation ?
I rode there from London last year when it was freezing but dry.
Did n't use the wet gear once

 

[Timolgra]

Tim,
My girlfriend's from Achill Sound.Family name Dowling,any relation ?
I rode there from London last year when it was freezing but dry.
Did n't use the wet gear once

I don't think so, Vic's family, McDowell, owned a big farm between Keel and Doogort along the Slievemore Road.
When enough was enough they sold the farm in the local pub for just enough to get the whole family out of Ireland.

 

[Aidan1150]

In.

Now, get on with it ffs man.

 

[Timolgra]

In.

Now, get on with it ffs man.

Of course what I didn't mention in the 'Return of the Socks' trip, is we stayed with our good friends Aidan and Mandy on the way back, we had a light snack and a wee nip of Aidan's large selection of Jim Beam ...... the evening became a blur shortly after

 

[Timolgra]

We take the fast road past Cork turned left somewhere and left again at Cookstown by a pub call Clifford's Bar.

I asked the huge landlord, Daniel Clifford if I could have tea, he smiles and said no so I asked for a coffee as well.

The Craic was established, Daniel came out to join us and brought biscuits as well, he'd taken a real shine to Ange and made sure he was sat close to her, we spent a memorable hour or so listening to his yarns.

There's a woman in the village who prided herself on knowing all the local coming's and going's.
In the company of his sidekick Daniel asked if she'd met the Indian chap who'd recently moved there.

There was a lengthy pause, yes she said I was just chatting to him in Peggy O'neills shop, he's a fine fella and told me all about his life in India, which she then repeated to the pair of them while they tried to contain themselves.

Unable to hold it in any longer, Daniel and his mate burst out laughing, of course there was no Indian chap

Fortified with Daniel's biscuits and banter we took a stunning road in the Bantry direction, R585 I think then on to the busy town of Castletownbere for a chowder stop.

It's 25 years since I was on the Beara and was instantly reminded why I wanted to return, in good weather it's paradise.

We stayed in a perfect B&B run by Irene, with great views of the beach even from the bed, it was called ...... Beach View, it was a long way for Ange to ride but you cannot be here and not smile ......... in good weather.

 

[richie]

Hi Tim, You should have called into me for a tea, I guess you at least went for a pint or so in the village?

 

[Timolgra]

Hi Tim, You should have called into me for a tea, I guess you at least went for a pint or so in the village?

Hi Richie, Irene did say she knew you and said you were in the village but I didn't want to impose, yes of course had a few pints in O'neills.
You're one lucky man to live there

 

[Timolgra]

Next day dawns bright and clear so we head out for the day on my bike.

So we take the cable car over to Dursey Island

Not sure Ange has much faith in it

We didn't tramp around the Island much but just chilled in the sunshine.

The owner of this was an extremely grumpy fisherman who made us very unwelcome.

Eventually he pissed off and talking with Irene later who thought she knew who he was, it seems possible he was after Salmon and didn't want nosy tourists looking on.

Anyway, he wasn't able to spoil our time there.

 

[Timolgra]

Time to press on a bit

Back through Allihies and past Richie's gaff in the shop to pick up some lunch for later and follow the coast for a while

Ange takes some nice photos from the back of the bike

Ahem, well she takes some photos anyway

And of course it's time for her tea fix by the time we get to Eyeries.

There was a couple of tables on the other side of the road in the sunshine where a guy from Cork was sat smugly eating apple pie and cream, he was only smug until a bird shat in it from the tree above, he then came over to the shade and everyone laughed

 

[yamonda1]

Super photographs and a place I'm adding to the list ...

 

[Timolgra]

Full of tea I'm given permission to carry on

Back across the main road a up to Glenbeg Lough

The roads a dead end with a few houses sat in a remarkable place so we head back along the lake

And have lunch

Heading up Healy pass on the north side

We stop down the bottom next to a stream and lie in the sun for an hour or so. Bliss.

Eventually it's time to go

On our way back I spot an interesting track.
Ange goes quiet

It eventually leads up to a couple of remote houses.
Stunning Stunning Stunning place to be.

Ange decides to walk some of the way

A fantastic couple of days on the Beara and we were blessed with good weather, sadly the next day it's time to move on, we need to be in Leenane, Connemara for the GS do at the weekend.

 

[Timolgra]

I make alterations to my plans .... ha plans, I was making it up as we went along .... but Ange isn't too keen on high mileages, this is supposed to be a holiday from her stressful job.

I show her a 'short cut' on the map

So in almost blistering sunshine we bimble on down through Black Valley and up to the Gap of Dunloe

And we sit in the sunshine again

While I eye up the totty on horseback

We wait in the Gap......

....until the tourist traffic has passed by

We make the ferry across the Shannon with about a minute to spare

Then head for Kilkee to look for somewhere to stay

Someone else has been here too

More beer, food then bed

 

[rocky burns]

A place i have meant to go for years and never got round too Tim,
Think i need to get on this, looks great

 

[Giles]

.......We didn't tramp around the Island much .......

I don't believe you ....

 

[Timolgra]

I don't believe you ....

Twat, I was spoilt for a choice of accommodation on the ferry over

 

[Giles]

I'm surprised you didn't jump at the chance of a snooze in the back of grumpy fishermans rusting Hilux .....

 

[(RIP) andrewgsadv]

Tim what a grand looking place, excellent photos ,a bonny place to chill and relax. Enjoy the rest of your trip

 

[richie]

Full of tea I'm given permission to carry on

Back across the main road a up to Glenbeg Lough

The roads a dead end with a few houses sat in a remarkable place so we head back along the lake

And have lunch

Heading up Healy pass on the north side

We stop down the bottom next to a stream and lie in the sun for an hour or so. Bliss.

Eventually it's time to go

On our way back I spot an interesting track.
Ange goes quiet

It eventually leads up to a couple of remote houses.
Stunning Stunning Stunning place to be.

Ange decides to walk some of the way

A fantastic couple of days on the Beara and we were blessed with good weather, sadly the next day it's time to move on, we need to be in Leenane, Connemara for the GS do at the weekend.

The grumpy man on Dursey is Jim and very grumpy he can be too, did he tell you to "fuck off" he normaly does, he has a house in England where his wife lives....

The tiny group of houses is Clenough where they filmed Colin Farrels first role in "Falling for a Chancer" sorry "Dancer", I reroofed the top house two years ago.
Yes it is a great place to live, but not always easy to make a living. See you next time maybe.