Australia it is then....!6th November 2008

[BaldBaBoon]

Caves,trolls and scaring the poo out of the Japs

On one of my random wanderings today, I went to the the Jenoban caves.The road getting there was a very twisty and narrow cliff hugging road with a very un-robust chicken wire fence on the cliff side.......safe to say that I caned it all the way to the bottom.

The caves turned into an expensive tourist trap guided tour,So I basically went off and did my own thing and found some beautiful little spots on my own.Crystal clear waters that you couldnt gauge the depth of,lined the cliffs and fed the various little rivers and pools,and an absolute god-send of a chilling breeze was blowing through the caves and tunnels....a total unadulterated pleasure that I abused for a long time.

On my solo wanderings I found a cave entrance that consisted of a long unlit tunnel about 3 foot wide and 5 feet tall and looking rather inviting through the beam of my trusty LED headtorch,I ventured forth.It went into the darkness a good 60 feet before ending in a padlocked door " guided tour only ",Oops wrong turn then so started back.

Switched my torch over to infra-red ( just a low powered red light really ) to get some scary cave footage on my camcorder,When suddenly I round a corner and bump into a short obstruction that emits an earth shattering scream.....swiftly followed by a whole chorus of screams and utter bedlam breaks out with shapes moving in different directions and a other-worldly language being babbled.....maybe Ive watched too many films or read too many books but I assumed that some god-awful group of subterranean creatures was about to have me,and replied in my own ( Very impressive I must say ) ear-splitting warcry.

Turns out a group of Japenese tourists followed me in but without the benefit of torches and suddenly came face to face with a red lit obscure shape that filled up the entire tunnel ( me ) barrelling into them out of the stygian pitch-black. Glad to see the Japenese have the same sense of survival as the Brits.....the men just screamed and ran from the the tunnel, leaving the girls screaming but trapped in the tunnel with me.

 

[BaldBaBoon]

quick post

Took a load of tracks/trails and roads at random last week, and I seemed to have ended up in Tasmania!

Original plan went to hell as Sydney was an absolute nightmare to try and negotiate a path through and the coastal roads were closed south of a place called Eden due to bushfires,So here I am in Tas.

Initial reaction was.......sod me its cold.dumped all the heavy bike gear off at a backpackers to do some of the mountain routes unladen for the next couple of days.As soon as I get some photos,Ill post them up.

 

[BaldBaBoon]

Tas

This is the last month of my Aussie trip, so I have given myself a good three weeks to explore Tasmania with another week spare for whatever.

Really having a chance to mellow out over here now,The scenic views,the crisp pure air and the refreshing and chilly drop in temperature is combining to just slow me down and take time out to just wander at random and stay at little villages that take my fancy.

Looking at a map in the morning or the night before and making note of the minor roads heading through a national park or mountain is all the Preparation ( if any ) you need to have a good ride out here......Just taking roads at random has the same effect with long stretches on a unsealed track rising and falling with the hills to finally end up on some white sand beach being the norm.

The hordes of German and Dutch backpackers have been gradually replaced by numerous parties of Korean,Taiwanese and Japanese tourists which as luck would have it almost all happen to be about 20 and female.( pity that Im bald,fat and ugly or I would be in heaven right now )

Going to see a penguin colony at dusk tonight by sea Kayak,secluded and protected and no photos allowed,possible visit to some of the cave systems tomorrow if I can get a group together for a guide to take us.

 

[lkyphl]

Andy,

"The Wall" at Derwent Bridge (between New Norfolk and Queenstown) is one of the few tourist enterprises worth a visit.

Watch out for the wet clay in the tunnel in Zeehan (still got a swollen shin from two weeks ago ...)

Good camping down at Cockle Creek, south of Southport.

As voted by the three of us earlier this month, the best egg 'n bacon sanger in Australia can be had at the Ouse servo/store !

If it's fine, there's a good view to be had from the top of Jacob's Ladder in Ben Lomond Nat. Park.



Phil

 

[BaldBaBoon]

A Class Apart?

Thanks for the pointers Phil,I will be sure to visit those spots.

I seem to have dropped a few social rungs on the ladder to be at the " motorcycle mounted vagrant "class, at this moment in time.There has been a steady decline in fellow bikers doing any form of a wave or nod in reply to my greetings as I have been moving from the north to the south in Australia, to the point I assume it must be some form of Free Mason's greeting involving one trouser leg rolled up and a loud pirate " Yaaaghhh" must be hollered to be acknowledged.

Pleased to say that all those riding Old BMW's always wave........but I have been totally ignored by peeps riding New BMW's,even passed an entire off-road tour the other day and all 30 riders on GS 800's and 1200's just stared as they went past,except for some cheerful chap at the back on a 80 GS.

Oh well....It might be that Im not a proper biker as Im only on a DR650?

 

[BaldBaBoon]

I do not need to really describe how stunning it is out here, just to say it is that impressive I have been parking my bike up at whatever spot I have staying and actually spending all day walking/hiking and just exploring.

But as soon as I can find a computer that does uploads I will post some photos of all the mist shrouded and beatifully chilly landscape...........one thing that the photos cannot portray is the absolute gorgeous smell of the place.A lot of places use real wood fires,and the combination of real wood smoke and roaring hearths in this terrain just seems to hit that spot.

 

[RobBD]

Aaaahhh.... Andy
Sounds like you've had so much fun in Tasmania that you're not getting to visit the West. Saves me a beer that I was going to buy you..... although I might just drink it anyway!
Oh well maybe next time. When do you head back?
Rob

 

[BaldBaBoon]

Back to Blighty

Hi Rob

Yeah, it does look like Im going to be missing the bulk of Western Australia.Combination of me being a magnet for some of the freak atrocious weather you have been having and being laid up in Alice Springs for over 4 weeks with a knackered shoulder have seriously effected my original route plans.

Looks like Im handing the bike back to the hire company on the 26th of this month ( better check that I think ), then off home.BUT....Im not sure what to do next.Was going to ride from London to Russia or Mongolia after having a months rest ( so,leaving London in June )with the price of the Euro as it is,Im thinking about changing that to maybe setting off and doing Canada and America instead......choices,choices?

Anyone got any suggestions?

 

[Coolcarbon]

Im thinking about changing that to maybe setting off and doing Canada and America instead......choices,choices?

Anyone got any suggestions?

If you are serious about the USA.... sit back and spend some time reading through MikeO's journals here & here

There are more to read after this one too....just do a search...

 

[Robbo1200ADV]

Well done!! Great to read your adventures and what a fantastic way to do Australia I envy the time you have available ,most of us get 2 or 3 weeks at a time for an adventure ,its inspiring to see someone who is able to live the dream!!

 

[BaldBaBoon]

Tempting

Thanks for the feedback,always makes it worthwhile to post when you think you are either amusing or providing some info for fellow riders.

Canada and America.....just sounds so tempting doesnt it.....and I will be back in time for their summer.

A few photos for you from Tasmania.

In no particular order.......Lots of scenic shots involving low cloud around here to be had.

And you find little bastions all over the place of Tasmanians who are damm proud of their Scottish/Irish/English/Welsh origins.

 

[BaldBaBoon]

Due to the sharp drop in Temperature down to what us Brits are used to, I have purchased an oilskin jacket ( wax ) that is a really good piece of kit.

And the last one is the Green Peace ship.....crewed by strict Vegans!!!! can you imagine a worse fate than going to sea on a ship full of militant vegans?

 

[BaldBaBoon]

On top of Mount Wellington above Hobart,It was just so chilly that I basically had the place to myself....perfect.

Kawasaki KLR.....From what I have seen these are great workhorses,Ideal for out here and only 4000 pounds new,shame we cant get them back in UK.

 

[RobBD]

The Americas - now that would be fun ... love to join you but bit early for me.
In June I will be doing the bits that you missed out here Andy. Up the WA coast, thru the Kimberly to Darwin then down to Alice and across the centre into WA.
The Russia bit would be good too - I'd like to tackle it from this end and finish up in Europe but who knows might have to sit in my lounge room and just read about it
Thanks for the reports and pics they are great.

 

[BaldBaBoon]

Back on the mainland this week after managing to bypass the wait of nearly ten days to get a ticket on the ferry.Helpful lady manning the desk managed to get me into the room reserved for truck drivers,which was empty....I like Tasmania but not enough to have to camp out in the wild fo ten days!

Just wandering around now, wasting some time until the weekend when I will meet up with some friends I made....Even had 3 people offer me somewhere to stay around Melbourne if i get stuck for accomodation.

Just a few little photos of the run up to Warnambool along the Great Ocean Road......good sweeping corners,stunning veiws and the smell of the ocean right next to you.Try not to get caught behind the regular car convoys of slow moving and erratic tourists.

 

[BaldBaBoon]

Home

Got back to England the other night after a very pampered and comfortable flight back with Thai Airlines.Exceptional food and an endless supply of free drinks and some very nice wine.

Trip Stats

Start Date...................16th of November 2008

End date.....................28th of April 2009

Distance covered .........35,000 kms

A total of almost 5 weeks of non-riding days spent laid up with a shoulder injury at Alice Springs and another 3 weeks virtually marooned in Darwin after the roads I needed were flooded into non-existance.

Motorcycle


Suzuki DR650 SE


Used a total of seven rear tyres and 4 front tyres.started with off-road tyres,but later swapped to on-road biased Kenda's due to their far greater agility on road and gravel.RHINO inner tubes were always fitted and used ultraseal.

KENDA ENDURO tyres ( road biased ) proved to be the best ones that I fitted with 12,000km from a front and over 6500km from a rear,Bridgestone tyres of both road and off-road bias proved to be rubbish with very poor durability.

Minor service and major service performed on alternate 5,000km basis on the DR,nothing more than chain oiling and very basic maint required on a daily rota.Depending on terrian,the air filter would be cleaned daily if needed.

In 35,000km the Suzuki did not miss a beat and didnt require a single spare or repair for anything apart from 1 clutch lever when I crashed.No oil was ever needed to top-up,and the chain and sprockets lasted the entire 35,000km with only the chain showing wear in the last week or so.

Equipment

I carried way too much equipment for the bike in some peoples opinion but I believe I carried everything that was needed and to carry less would have been a tad foolhardy given the long and isolated sections of road and unsealed track that I was using.Most of what i carried was either in constant use or for emergencies.

FOOD and FUEL

10 litres of spare fuel

15 lts of water plus 3 lts in camelbac in desert ( otherwise 5 lt )

3 days of food ( just 3 cans of beans,no appetite in heat )

Coleman unleaded fuel cooker

LIFE-STRAW emergency water filter ( size of a fat straw )

Billy can and metal army mug with a spoon was all the cooking gear needed.

SHELTER and DOSSBAG

Tent, 2 man dome ( £10 from local K-mart )

Military Ground Sheets ( £20 x 2 ) Numerous uses,great kit.

Rollmat,cheap and cheerful foam one.

2 season Snugpac sleeping bag ( military spec )

Silk sleeping bag liner

Snugpac Sleeka jacket ( compact and warm )

NAVIGATION

GPS Navig8r M35 hardwired to bike

Compass and high detail maps for wilderness areas, or Motorcycle Atlas for populated areas,the ability to read maps.

SPARES and MAINT

Engine oil,Chain lube,WD 40,Spare levers/spark plug/throttle cables.

Chemical metal,tie wraps,bodge tape,binding wire,

spare F+R tubes,valves and 90 degree adapter/tyre levers and puncture kit and handpump.

 

[BaldBaBoon]

MEDICAL KIT carried on person

3 X Field Dressings

6 X steri Strips

Triangular Bandage and Surgical Tape

Diarolyte sachets X 10

Superglue

Burns dressing fluid packs X 3

Coagulent Spray

Pottasium Permangenate crystals


MEDICAL KIT ( In panniers )

Assorted plasters ( second skin advanced type )

Sudocrem

Superglue

Dental kit

Painkillers

Guaze and bandages

 

[BaldBaBoon]

Riding Gear

Hein Gericke Tuareg trousers ( tailored and modified )

Hein Gericke Tuareg jacket ( tailored and modified ) or moto-x shirt

Off-road gloves

OGK flight jacket ( like a military load carrying vest )

OXtar full motocross boots

BMW Enduro Helmet ( black visor )

FORCE FIELD adventure harness ( body armour )

UFO knee plates

Its a lot but after having a big tumble about 100km from the nearest house it really makes you appreciate having some impact protection.

 

[(RIP) Kaister]

A top trip and a great ride report andy - i've posted it over on Aus advrider for their delictation

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=157779&page=46

 

[smilee mark]

Glad you had a good time on OZ.. Great RR And PICs... Thankyou Motomartin for posting it.