Autocom advice

We are yet to do a fitting guide but they are fairly easy to. The speakers fit onto the black plastic inner shell via small strips of the self adhesive velcro and they fit in the spaces a treat.

We pop off the left cheek pad and fit the mic under the cheek pad again using strips of velcro, the loom can also be fitted under the cheek pad. Or the other option is between the inner and outer shell of the helmet by flexing the two parts apart so friction holds the loom in place, we normally do this towards the back of the helmets.

Rich :beerjug:
 
We are yet to do a fitting guide but they are fairly easy to. The speakers fit onto the black plastic inner shell via small strips of the self adhesive velcro and they fit in the spaces a treat.

We pop off the left cheek pad and fit the mic under the cheek pad again using strips of velcro, the loom can also be fitted under the cheek pad. Or the other option is between the inner and outer shell of the helmet by flexing the two parts apart so friction holds the loom in place, we normally do this towards the back of the helmets.

Rich :beerjug:


On a similar note any guidance for full face Roof helmets as most of the innards appear to be pretty much immovable barring the lower cheekpads, I know, the penalty for wanting to look like a fighter pilot.
 
if the roof is a diversion/daytona they are the same fitting style as Arai as Ive got a daytona myself. The cheeks pads will come out as they are only held in place via friction

Rich :beerjug:
 
if the roof is a diversion/daytona they are the same fitting style as Arai as Ive got a daytona myself. The cheeks pads will come out as they are only held in place via friction

Rich :beerjug:


As always thanks for info Rich, it is the diversion. Could I push your largesse a little further, any advise with regard to best methods to locate speakers/microphone & also hide wiring under lining etc. specific to the Daytona, the padding adjacent to my earholes is only part recessed with a raised section almost certain to provide complications. I would like to get it right first time without destroying my helmet & Autocom kit in the process, I'm reasonably adept but size XXL hands through size L orifices don't help, I won't even go into low light close up eyesight limitations, oh to be a youff again.
 
well then mate, if you grab each cheek pad at the front where they fit onto the nose/chin area you will beable to pull the pads inside the helmet so they come out.

most of the Roof's Ive see have a cloth backing stuck down with some sticky glue so you can peel this back a bit. this will expose the polystryrene where a strip of self adhesive velcro will help hold the speakers in place. the speakers are ran horzintally just on top of the foam but you might need to try the lid on once refitted to see if they need to be moved up or down slighty to get the speakers cock on. the backing can then be stuck back down in place.

While the left hand cheek pads is out you can fit the mic and wiring loom onto the inner shell of the helmet, again we use velcro strips to hold them down in place.

refit the left hand cheek pad and running the speaker cable under the neck collar around the back of the helmet and then refit the right handside cheek pad

job done :thumb

if you need anymore help I will try and keep an eye on the forum over the hols as much as poss mate

Rich :beerjug:
 
well then mate, if you grab each cheek pad at the front where they fit onto the nose/chin area you will beable to pull the pads inside the helmet so they come out.

most of the Roof's Ive see have a cloth backing stuck down with some sticky glue so you can peel this back a bit. this will expose the polystryrene where a strip of self adhesive velcro will help hold the speakers in place. the speakers are ran horzintally just on top of the foam but you might need to try the lid on once refitted to see if they need to be moved up or down slighty to get the speakers cock on. the backing can then be stuck back down in place.

While the left hand cheek pads is out you can fit the mic and wiring loom onto the inner shell of the helmet, again we use velcro strips to hold them down in place.

refit the left hand cheek pad and running the speaker cable under the neck collar around the back of the helmet and then refit the right handside cheek pad

job done :thumb

if you need anymore help I will try and keep an eye on the forum over the hols as much as poss mate

Rich :beerjug:



Thanks again Rich, don't officially receive kit as a present until Chrissy day then the fun begins, I'm sure it will all become clear when I destroy err I mean dis-assemble my helmet.
 
got my kit for chrimbo :-) I was hoping to get it back..
bench tested yesterday after fitting to both helmets, worked a treat and love the fade on the ipod input when we speak :thumb2
was hoping for a road test today but the wife has the trots big time and babnished into quarentine :eek:
 
Thanks for the advice. Do I really need 1273 as the phone is already paired to the Zumo and when I use wired earphones direct to the audio out on the bike cradle I can hear the phone ring. I can answer the call with the Zumo but obviously not speak back?
Autocom arrived this morning, looks a bit like the krypton factor at the moment though, may start the fitting today.

Have the same setup just installed - Ipod runs direct into Unit - via aux lead and I Run my Zumo through bluetooth back to unit with the Zumo connected to Garmin via bluetooth and it works perfectly first time !!!
 
Have the same setup just installed - Ipod runs direct into Unit - via aux lead and I Run my Zumo through bluetooth back to unit with the Zumo connected to Garmin via bluetooth and it works perfectly first time !!!

zumo connected to garmin ???
 
I am thinking along the same line as Rubber Scrubber here!!!!!:confused:

1. The ZUMO 550 has a Aux out which when I plug earphones in I get music and can hear the phone (but cannot talk back).
2. Above this plug is a 2.5mm socket which says microphone above it - If I plug a microphone in this I then can talk back.

Question - Is there not a lead which hardwires the Autocom to Zumo carrier via this 2.5mm microphone socket and then talk via the headset hence eliminating the need for Bluetooth dongle?
 
I have just answered my own question by trying it - If you have a Zumo you don't need the Bluetooth dongle to talk on the phone:D!!! - here how I did it.

1. Plug 1238 (£4) 3.5mm in Aux 4 (Autocom) - 2.5mm Zumo microphone
2. Plug 1307 (£3) 3.5mm in Aux 2 (Autocom) - 3.5mm Zumo Auxout

result was music stopped when phone rang, press answer on Zumo and automatically talk and had chat with my son indoors! When he hung up music was returned to same volume!
 
wow, thats a total of £7 :eek:

Im sure when Rich reads this he will have a comment to make :D

do you get any interferance noise coming through at all ?? and is the music in stereo. And finally are the zumo's really that kool, Im sure they will plummit to £300 soonish and I might just get one..
 
At my end it is perfectly clear and sounds great both music and phone! However on the receiving end my wife said there was a humming sound in the background. This could be caused by the fact she was on a wireless phone that is also in my garage so it could have been that. I will need to run the bike down the road to see if there is any improvement.

Yes the music is stereo and sounds very good.

The Zumo is a cracking bit of kit and if it saves the price of a dongle. Make sure you have the latest version because there are more software goodies added. You can update it free and well worth it - mine now has an altimeter so I know how high I am and a compass. Nice touch. There is enough to put some music on the unit but best to buy a 2gig memory card and store all the music you want. It displays it in a useable interface. The only thing I have to complain about is the constantly annoying pinging if you are “slightly” over the limit in a speeding zone – there is no tolerance on it.
 
I have just answered my own question by trying it - If you have a Zumo you don't need the Bluetooth dongle to talk on the phone:D!!! - here how I did it.

1. Plug 1238 (£4) 3.5mm in Aux 4 (Autocom) - 2.5mm Zumo microphone
2. Plug 1307 (£3) 3.5mm in Aux 2 (Autocom) - 3.5mm Zumo Auxout

result was music stopped when phone rang, press answer on Zumo and automatically talk and had chat with my son indoors! When he hung up music was returned to same volume!


Completly the wrong leads here, if you are wanting just music and GPS only from the Zumo a Part 1314 is the only suitable part. If a phone is wanting to be used a Part 1273 or 1276 will need to be added.
 
wow, thats a total of £7 :eek:

Im sure when Rich reads this he will have a comment to make :D

do you get any interferance noise coming through at all ?? and is the music in stereo. And finally are the zumo's really that kool, Im sure they will plummit to £300 soonish and I might just get one..

what did I say :D
happy new year Rich :thumb2
 
Yeh sorry for the reply Ive been away from a pc for 5 days so ive got some replies to do, but yeh happy new year to you to mate :beerjug:

Rich
 
In some respects GSRich is correct that these are not quite the right leads as I could not get rid of the humming sound on the phone - tried everything but to no avail!

I have now purchased the 1299 special Zumo lead and guess what - It works perfectly! I stated the guy in the shop that if this does not fix the problem then I will be returning it and he assured me that it would and will refund me if I am not totally happy, but It will be staying will me as I am over the moon! - I guess Garmin know what they are talking about!

1. Isolated sound to head phones in perfect sound
2. Sound drops from Music when phone rings
3. Talk clearly & perfectly at BOTH ends (now!)
4. £38 ouch! but works perfectly!!! proof in pudding:augie
 


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