Bar Risers

  • Thread starter Thread starter Totoro
  • Start date Start date
Harps said:
Another question related to this is.

Now i have the risers on and in the position that feels comfortable, the brake levers and clutch have dropped slightly (stayed in the position they were but because the whole bar has moved they are now lower) , hence the indicators etc are higher. Hope this makes sense.

How do i move the entire cluster on either side.

If pictures would help then will post them

Cheers

Are you sitting comfortable?

First, remove the mirror, behind the upright mirror stem is the "hidden" screw.

Take care as this is yet another screw that is made of cheese, and make sure that you have the right sized screwdriver.

It may also pay to lower the handguards so that you can get the screwdriver at 90 degrees to the screw.

Remove this small screw, but mind that you don't drop it!

Now the next one, right hand side of the switch gear is another one, its a crosshead countershunk type. It the one that you can see when sat on the bike.

The other two are on the underside of the switch gear, one is black the other is stainless steel. Remove both these screws.

Again take care not to drop them, coz they will could drop into the bowels of the bike...........trust me. :spitfire

Its now just a case of easing the switch gear away from the bars, it may also be best to prise the lower segment away first.

The bottom segment will come away altogether, the front face of the switchgear will only move away according to the length of the cables.

Once you are at this stage, you will now see a 5mm Allen screw, this is the clamp retaining screw.

Undo this Allen screw a small amount and reposition the levers.

Simply repeat the above, taking care not to pinch the cables when locating the switchgear back onto the bars.

No need to worry about mxing the screws up either, as they are all different sizes and different threads..........only BMW could design something that used four different types of screw in just one application. :confused:

Hopefully that has helped you yet again?

No pictures, but it really is that easy, the common mistake that people make is not undoing the "hidden" screw, but you have no excuse now :thumb

I should charge for this information service really...................... :beerjug:

BTBR
 
It's also worth playing around and fitting the risers facing forwards rather than backwards as in the pic above.

Surprising what a difference it can make..I prefer the riding position with tem forwards but on anything over 300 miles a day I found I had back ache like that, so I've gone back tot he more conventional 'backwards' position....worth a go though ;)
 
Thank you yet again Alan :bow
It certainly will be a :beer: if we meet again.

Good job you let me know about that sneaky hidden one.

I will give it a go and let you know how i get on

Cheers :thumb
 
Lot's of 1100Gs's are now suffering from top brake hose failure. They split at the bango joint where it attaches to the frame, after constantly being stretched. And thats with the standard set-up from the factory .

If the hose is stretched, i'd get a longer top hose -

And i'd cut all the cable ties around the frame headstock anyway. As i've seen to many bikes with broken electrical wiring due to the wire bending in the same short place every time the bars are moved. Especially the ignition loom on the 1150 ;)
 
Will you lot stop messing about, fit these little beauties with a longer stainless hose and get on with riding the vastly superior 1100's :D :D
 

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mine... had to get them to stop my arm from hurting..i can't straighten it fully after a bike accident
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TUNED IN said:
mine... had to get them to stop my arm from hurting..i can't straighten it fully after a bike accident

You told me your belly was forcing you away from the bars :rolleyes:
 


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