Battery Charging (or not)!

  • Thread starter Thread starter NickC
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NickC

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I have a hawker battery that though has never been amazing (ever since I changed the Valeo starter for a Bosch) but usually gets the job done.

Recently on very cold mornings (like today) it appears to be flat and needs jumping, also with oxford 'wrap round heated' grips (which according to Oxford drain hardly any power) left on for approx 3hrs it is also flat (I realise the answer to this is do not forget to turn them off but even so I thought the drain would be minor).

I have a standard battery charger (that starts with a high reading and then gets lower & then down to zero when the battery is charged) and have had to charge it 3-4 times in last 2 weeks.

Any clues as to whether it is my battery on it's way out, the charger not charging it adequately in the 1st place, or whether the bike is not charging the battery when riding.

I think it is charging as the charging light goes out when revved and the voltage reading on the IMO console increases to approx 13.8 volts?

I ride about 20 miles a day in London traffic so I suppose the battery does not get a great charge but it never used to be so bad.

Any help would be appreciated.....

Cheers

Nick
 
my experience is that if you ride with the lights on, the battery will not be getting charged below 3000 rpm.

any additional loads will raise that figure.
 
IIRC for a car they reckon it takes 15 minutes of running to get the battery back to where it was. With the cold weather it's a double hit, less battery capacity and more sticktion within the engine. 13.8v sounds about right for when the motor is running, IMHO.

When you say "standard battery charger" is that a car or bike one? If it's a car one you could have pushed too much current through the battery, and it wouldn't like it :(
 
I used mine for courier work for awhile - the battery was always going flat, complete pain in the arse. I think you can fit a police spec voltage regulator which helps with slow speed charging.

Cheers

Duncan
 
I used mine for courier work for awhile - the battery was always going flat, complete pain in the arse. I think you can fit a police spec voltage regulator which helps with slow speed charging.

Cheers

Duncan

AAMOI the "police spec" reg seems to charge at nearer a "normal" rate than the standard item which is set very low IMO, can't remember the actual figures.

it's also getting on for twice the price of a std, reg.
 
Just got one off e bay and its made an amazing difference to the charging. Light never comes on now even at idle with light and gps on. WORLD VOYAGAER is selling them and they are good value compared to Moto works etc.

Andy
 
I used mine for courier work for awhile - the battery was always going flat, complete pain in the arse. I think you can fit a police spec voltage regulator which helps with slow speed charging.

I tried one of those a few years ago. Complete waste of time.

What did make all the difference was fitting a 400watt alternator from Motorworks, it cost £235 two years ago. I have two 50watt driving lamps that come on with main beam, heated grips and heated waistcoat, and never have any problems with charge level. Actually, I believe there is another, supposedly better alternator conversion available, it has a permanent magnet rotor and has a higher available output. I think that's more expensive, though.
 
On my recently purchased wobble miester I have a Gel Battery, do you need a special charger for Gel batteries? Also are Gel Batts supposed to be smaller than the original fit?
John A are you still working at MYT MAN?
 
Just got one off e bay and its made an amazing difference to the charging. Light never comes on now even at idle with light and gps on. WORLD VOYAGAER is selling them and they are good value compared to Moto works etc.

Andy

Got what off ebay :nenau

No matter what you've got, the generator light should be lit at idle ( unless your idle is set to high.

Unless you intend boiling your battery dry. :eek:
 
Gel batteries need special chargers, Its to do with there construction. Check the relivent web page for your Battery.
Cain
 
Steptoe

Yes it now just barely flickers and yes I had the idle high and yes its now balanced and smooth thanks to Fredkats carbtune etc. It was a voltage regulator off e bay and it seems to work for me and is way cheaper than a new alternator????????? These are old bike so why would you try to make them perform electricaly like a new one (50 watt spots, heated grips, heated waistcoat):blast :augie :D
 
..... so why would you try to make them perform electricaly like a new one (50 watt spots, heated grips, heated waistcoat):blast :augie :D

Ah, that's because I like to have enough power to see where I'm going after dark and to keep warm when I'm doing so.

Hadn't thought of that one, had you?:blast :augie :D
 
Steptoe

These are old bike so why would you try to make them perform electricaly like a new one (50 watt spots, heated grips, heated waistcoat):blast :augie :D

It's not my problem - Your the one trying to make it perform like a new one :nenau

I have no problems with my old airheads, never have. And they use all sorts of add on electrical toys. :augie
 
Gel batteries dont boil dry, they melt! My Hawker expanded and melted to the battery box when the regulator went on my way from here to Dover. 14 miles from Dover and a strong smell of plastic followed by cut out. I was in the outside lane of the M20 at the time so there was a strong smell of something else as I made for the shoulder.
Gel batteries are superb, but your charging circuit has to be spot on, they give no warning (acid level drop) of overcharging. R100GS did not have a voltage meter.
Cost new battery, regulator and ignition control unit. Bike recovered and driven the 296 miles back oop north.
 
Gel batteries dont boil dry, they melt!


I know, but i didn't want to confuse taffyscouser any more .:augie

They expand and bulge before meltdown . :eek:

But if you catch them in time, they go back to normal size and carry on working as normal :thumb
 


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