Battery dying on 1100

[gazuk]

Bought a new battery a couple of weeks ago as the current one, although only a few years old was dead (even though the charger said otherwise)

Anyway, charged it and fitted and all good ( even the abs primed which was a change). After a short ride I put it on the trickle charger and it said 'bulk charge' instead of 'maintain' which meant it needed charging again. Didn't think about it much as I always intend to put it on trickle charge. BUT,forgot to do it last ride,about 5 days ago and the battery was flat today.

The only non standard thing I have on the bike is a connector attached to the battery to plug the trickle charger in.

Any ideas why the battery is dying? It's a Yuasa bought from Halfords. I've only ridden the bike a few times since fitting the new battery and non of the rides have been greater than than 5 miles

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[theoneandonly]

check the voltage with it running , then the amps it is putting in , you will need a "shunt " to do the last test .

 

[NeilDD]

Do you know how to use a multimeter, if yes then once you've got the bike running put the meter across the battery terminals and see what voltage you have on tickover. It should be around 13.8 Volts which shows the alternator is basically OK. This would then show that you may have a duff new battery.
With ref to it going flat, the only thing drawing all the time is the clock. but it could also be something like the starter over draining the battery on startup. If you have a look in the font of all wisdom at the top of the section, you will find info on fuse layout, how to check the starter etc.

Best of luck
Neil

 

[gazuk]

Thanks, looks like I need to go and buy a multimeter.

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[JJH]

I don't like those charger/tender/conditioner things. I think they cause more problems than they fix. JJH

 

[gazuk]

I agree with you about the trickle chargers, I've gone through about 4, but I'm sure it's not that this time. Its seems to charge ok, and once charged everyting is rosey.

 

[moonhead911]

what type of battery have you got fitted. most gel and agm need higher volts about 14.5 to 14.8v witch your alternator wont output with out modding it

i had a motobatt fail on me this year it was only about 16 months old. i can connect it to the charger it will say its fully charged in 5 mins thats not the case if you load test it the battery fails. i think it failed due the the charging volts been to low probably no higher than 13.8v

 

[oblertone]

Go here and download the fault finding chart, then follow it and it will answer or address all the well meant advice you've been given.

 

[Roger 04 RT]

Do you know how to use a multimeter, if yes then once you've got the bike running put the meter across the battery terminals and see what voltage you have on tickover. It should be around 13.8 Volts which shows the alternator is basically OK. This would then show that you may have a duff new battery.
With ref to it going flat, the only thing drawing all the time is the clock. but it could also be something like the starter over draining the battery on startup. If you have a look in the font of all wisdom at the top of the section, you will find info on fuse layout, how to check the starter etc.

Best of luck
Neil

Here are the key-off currents on the R1150:

Motronic/Fuse 5: 0.8 mA
RID/Fuse 3: 1.5 mA, which is the clock
ABS: 0.3 mA
Total: 2.6 mA

A Kisan SignalMinder adds, 4.7 mA, which triples the draw to,
Total: 7.3 mA