I just drove the stud out.
Battery heads up
- Thread starter King Rat
- Start date
I just drove the stud out.
I did try to - it's welded on mine.
Bendy toy
Registered user
If the stud goes right through, find a nut that fits over the flanged end and whack the stud out with a big Birmingham spanner.
All sortd, Himura battery, gel type factory sealed, 20Ah - came recommended from a custom builder that is using them on 2.2 litre Big Vee twins with a load more compression than my old 180* vee twin has. Simple post terminals with a hole through....took 5 minutes and that included fishing the dropped nut out from under the battery tray!
It might be a battery make you haven't heard of, but at £80 delivered for TWO and a 7.5Ah one for my fish finder.....with 12 months gaurantee. I can afford to buy one every couple of years. 
Cheers for the help and sentiments chaps.
It might be a battery make you haven't heard of, but at £80 delivered for TWO and a 7.5Ah one for my fish finder.....with 12 months gaurantee. I can afford to buy one every couple of years. Cheers for the help and sentiments chaps.
newboy
mechanical buffoon
- Joined
- Mar 24, 2009
- Messages
- 2,740
- Reaction score
- 1
Funnily enough
I've just had the same problems fitting a Motobatt to my 1100. I had to cut some of the connecting bolts to fit the positive lead onto the brass connectors.
If there's one job I loathe doing on the bike, it's taking the battery out and replacing it, which I had to do a few times as apparently I was sold the wrong type of battery previously. Apparently it wasn't getting enough from the alternator to charge it, so was just getting flatter each time i started the bike.
Still, it's passed it's WOF, so I just have to get some road tax and I'm off out.
I've just had the same problems fitting a Motobatt to my 1100. I had to cut some of the connecting bolts to fit the positive lead onto the brass connectors.
If there's one job I loathe doing on the bike, it's taking the battery out and replacing it, which I had to do a few times as apparently I was sold the wrong type of battery previously. Apparently it wasn't getting enough from the alternator to charge it, so was just getting flatter each time i started the bike.
Still, it's passed it's WOF, so I just have to get some road tax and I'm off out.
Speckled Jim
Registered user
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=699747
I just replaced my battery with an Odyssey. Did I do wrong? Is there an advantage with the Motobatt?
I just replaced my battery with an Odyssey. Did I do wrong? Is there an advantage with the Motobatt?
ghiribizzo
Registered user
The Motobatt is cheaper than an Odyssey. Generally easier to connect as it has twin terminals unlike the Oddyssey. As mentioned in the link above though, the 51814 was too tight (wide) by about 2mm to physically fit the battery tray in some 1100/1150s, but they resized the casings to remedy that.
ahutcheon
Registered user
It's relatively cheap and widely available. And yellow. Some of this is good, particularly if you live in a southern city in a small country at the edge of the world (where an Odyssey is how the first waka got here and the price of an Exide makes an ex-Yorkshireman weep). I'm sure you did great, Cumbria is within shouting distance (or at least a day's ride) of civilization.
Speckled Jim
Registered user
Tell me about it, I only moved to the wrong side of the Pennines a few years ago, it rains a lot more on this side!
Some good info here. Need to replace the battery on my 1150 and have a couple of questions. I've previously had an Odyssey PC680 battery fitted - will the motobatt be a straight swap? I have a studded negative lead with a short adapter into a standard ring connector. Also do these arrived charged? If not will an Optimate III be OK? Previously it's been suggested that the Optimate was the cause of my Odyssey failure?
Ta
Ta
I fitted a Motobatt battery to my 1150 today. To answer my questions above: The battery is a direct swap for a PC680 or OEM battery. No modification is required to fit in the battery tray. Battery arrives fully charged and ready to use (however this hasn't sorted my starting problem - other thread).
My 1150 had the captive screw negative lead - as mentioned above, the easiest option is the drift out the captive screw which makes fitment straight forward. Easy to do -
It will make sense when you try it.
My 1150 had the captive screw negative lead - as mentioned above, the easiest option is the drift out the captive screw which makes fitment straight forward. Easy to do -
- Remove battery
- Place a piece of wood in the battery tray - same height as battery
- Support negative lead on the piece of wood
- Attach nut to captive screw
- Bash with a large hammer
It will make sense when you try it.
Similar threads
