I realise this has probably been done before but I've suddenly realised I need to get a Y-piece to save my catalyser from Morrocco. Can anyone recommend one and how difficult is it to fit them for an amateur? 
Best Y piece
- Thread starter Gaulois
- Start date
Y piece is a misnomer where the 1200 is concerned. The cat is in the collector which is unitary with the header pipes. So there's no such thing as a Y piece for a 1200. You need to replace the header pipes. Either Remus or Bos, I'd have thought. Bos have a reputation for being a better fit.
cordroy
Guest
Which Downpipes
I paid £275 from Nippy - delivered next day and fitted in about an hour.
You don't need to be a mechanic, but take your time, follow these instructions and you'll be fine
You can easily change without a lift, although it certainly means lying on the floor a bit.
Only special tools needed will be a size 45 torx bit for removing the exhaust can and a long thin 12mm hex socket for the header pipes at the cylinder end. Both can be obtained from Halfords, but if you don't want to buy a 12mm socket use a ring spanner. It's fiddly and for the sake of a quid or so false economy - you'll be swapping back before selling the bike anyway!!
Ideally you should use a torque wrench to set the bolts at the recommended setting when reassembling, but they are expensive if you don't already have one and it's not worth buying just for this job. Just make sure you tighten everything up and don't go mad!! If you do have a torque wrench here's a link to the values http://www.r1200gs.info/misc/torque.html
1. Loosen the bracket that tightens the can to the existing downpipes (Alzheimer's - cant think of the proper name for this bracket). Then soak the joint and the nut at the bottom of the hanger bracket in WD40)
2. Remove the can before loosening hanger nut and as you've used WD40 it'll wiggle clear nicely
3. Remove base plate and tell me why 1 bracket requires 3 different fastenings!!
4. Unclip the Lambda wires and remove the sensor - 20mm or adjustable - these will be tight so do this beforeb you remove the pipes
5. Completely release the bracket that runs around the catalytic converter - 2 small torx fittings
6. Undo the 12mm nuts at the head of the pipes and the whole thing will now drop down.
7. wiggle the hanger bracket free - you've got a replacement with the new pipes
If you've got any copper grease put some on the studs in the head and the thread on the Lambda Sensors - copper grease only as it's heat resistant
Now 'loose fit' everything
8. Loose fit the downpipes
9. Fit new hanger bracket and loose fit
10. Replace can and torx fitting
11. Fit Lambda Sensors and reconnect the wires
12. Now tighten everything
13. Refit base plate and make sure you've got no bits left over!!!
I couldn't get a socket on the pipe studs so wasn't able to torque up to the recommended setting - can't see it being a problem though - I'll ask them to check at next service
Finally take for a ride and return home to check all the fittings then taker out for a proper spin and ring the tits off of her
I paid £275 from Nippy - delivered next day and fitted in about an hour.
You don't need to be a mechanic, but take your time, follow these instructions and you'll be fine
You can easily change without a lift, although it certainly means lying on the floor a bit.
Only special tools needed will be a size 45 torx bit for removing the exhaust can and a long thin 12mm hex socket for the header pipes at the cylinder end. Both can be obtained from Halfords, but if you don't want to buy a 12mm socket use a ring spanner. It's fiddly and for the sake of a quid or so false economy - you'll be swapping back before selling the bike anyway!!
Ideally you should use a torque wrench to set the bolts at the recommended setting when reassembling, but they are expensive if you don't already have one and it's not worth buying just for this job. Just make sure you tighten everything up and don't go mad!! If you do have a torque wrench here's a link to the values http://www.r1200gs.info/misc/torque.html
1. Loosen the bracket that tightens the can to the existing downpipes (Alzheimer's - cant think of the proper name for this bracket). Then soak the joint and the nut at the bottom of the hanger bracket in WD40)
2. Remove the can before loosening hanger nut and as you've used WD40 it'll wiggle clear nicely
3. Remove base plate and tell me why 1 bracket requires 3 different fastenings!!
4. Unclip the Lambda wires and remove the sensor - 20mm or adjustable - these will be tight so do this beforeb you remove the pipes
5. Completely release the bracket that runs around the catalytic converter - 2 small torx fittings
6. Undo the 12mm nuts at the head of the pipes and the whole thing will now drop down.
7. wiggle the hanger bracket free - you've got a replacement with the new pipes
If you've got any copper grease put some on the studs in the head and the thread on the Lambda Sensors - copper grease only as it's heat resistant
Now 'loose fit' everything
8. Loose fit the downpipes
9. Fit new hanger bracket and loose fit
10. Replace can and torx fitting
11. Fit Lambda Sensors and reconnect the wires
12. Now tighten everything
13. Refit base plate and make sure you've got no bits left over!!!
I couldn't get a socket on the pipe studs so wasn't able to torque up to the recommended setting - can't see it being a problem though - I'll ask them to check at next service
Finally take for a ride and return home to check all the fittings then taker out for a proper spin and ring the tits off of her
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