Bevel box input bearing/seal

[ThreeDawg]

Have done a search, but no luck, guess I'm asking the wrong question.

Took the bevel box off my 76000 mile '97 1100GS today (I'm taking the swinging arm out to replace the neutral light switch and the clutch arm) and saw oil in the rubber gaiter. It doesn't seem to be coming down the swinging arm (phew!) but the input shaft of the bevel box UJ is noticably wobbly (not quite stick in a bucket, but I assume there should be no lateral movement). Looks like the bearing and seal have gone.

Can anyone direct me to a thread on disassembling everything and replacing the bearing - looks like there is a castle nut down there - or is it a job that is best done by a specialist?

 

[Ian J Hartley]

Have done a search, but no luck, guess I'm asking the wrong question.

Can anyone direct me to a thread on disassembling everything and replacing the bearing - looks like there is a castle nut down there - or is it a job that is best done by a specialist?

Depends on you skill level. You will need to dismantle obviously, and there are two bearings on the pinion shaft. The Pinion is shimmed to ensure correct alignment with the crown gear, so accurate measuring is required. If your replacement bearings are the same size as the originals, then no re-shimming is required, but you still need to check. Then whilst your at it you might consider replacing the crown gear bearings depending on mileage.

Have read of this to help you understand the mechanics and then decide.

http://http://largiader.com/articles/finaldrive/early.html

 

[ThreeDawg]

Thanks for that. And I had a look at the parts fiche, and I think I understand now how it all goes together, and I noted the shim selection. Bearing seems to be a pricey wee bugger. Doesn't look too tricky to do, but would need a tool to remove the castle type nut - anyone sell these? Beginning to go off doing it myself...

 

[Pekkavee]

Thanks for that. And I had a look at the parts fiche, and I think I understand now how it all goes together, and I noted the shim selection. Bearing seems to be a pricey wee bugger. Doesn't look too tricky to do, but would need a tool to remove the castle type nut - anyone sell these? Beginning to go off doing it myself...

You can use KD Tools 2467 tool to open it.
Available in some american car parts shop.

https://www.centurytool.net/2467_KD_Tools_1_2_in_Drive_4_Lug_4WD_Spindle_Nut_p/kdt2467.htm

Pekka

 

[Steptoe]

I did do a write up for replacing the final drive input seal - it’s in the sticky at the top of the 1100/1150 section, Tips and Info . HERE

 

[ThreeDawg]

Thanks for that. Having read through what's involved, and the fact that I would have to buy or make a special tool I have decided to send it off to be done. Just want to get the bike on the road - it was two months late coming back from Capetown, the season has started (sort of) and now that the Falco has gone it's all I've got to ride!

 

[ThreeDawg]

Sorted, thanks to Mikeyboy. Great service and communication.