Bevel box to swing arm bearing upgrade kit

bobbyb382

bobbyb382

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Anyone used the swing arm pivot bearing upgrade from Motorwoks they even has grease nipples what will they think of next.....:clap
and its much cheaper than replacing both bearings
 
i bought some called nushings i think they was called. from the usa like rubber things will never need lubing or were out. i did sell i few sets on hear the other year when i imported some there about £50 quid posted no import fee
 
I really don't like the Motorworks kit! I fitted them to my GSA but threw them out after only 6k miles as they were badly scoured, Motorworks replaced them with the OM bearings and didn't even want the originals returned.
I've recently bought another GSA and the previous owner had also fitted these, I had to take the FD off to get a leaking pinion sorted and the pins were also badly scored after less than 1k miles so they have also been replaced with bearings. Sherlocks are half the price of Motorworks BTW :rolleyes:
 
Seems I had a different, positive, story with the Motorworks kit.

New owner of my 1150 should not have to touch the paralever bearings for quite some time. After about 10k+ there was still zero play in the paralever and everything worked perfectly. I tried a couple of times to add some grease - but only a tiny amount went in.

It's an easy job to do, so I'd say the Motorworks kit is a good option if it lasted just 30k miles.

I might be wrong, but those nushings seemed like the wrong material to me. Whilst they'd offer great long term, maintenance free lubrication, I have reservations about their rigidity. Maybe I'm mistaken. Just a gut feeling. I've worked with nylatron and it's a superb material. So don't get me wrong. It's just the application.


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Yea. Read all that. Good for you. I'm glad they seem to work.

I guess I just think that joint should rotate in one plane only. I'm just convinced there must be some flex in those nushings. Maybe there is, but not enough to notice? Maybe that's the case?



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I fitted Nushings to mine recently. I haven't done much mileage since, so I can't comment on longevity. I fitted them because bearings aren't ideally suited to an oscillating load as brinelling causes early failure. The Nushings were the only bushings I could find to replace the bearings.

If there is some flexing, it's probably only a few microns and I can't think of any harm that would do. The universal joints will absorb any flexing that might affect the prop shaft and there's nothing I can think of on the final drive that needs critical alignment with the rest of the bike. I'm not saying you're wrong, but that's my opinion. Maybe there's something I haven't thought of?
 
tadhgocuilleain said:
I fitted Nushings to mine recently. I haven't done much mileage since, so I can't comment on longevity. I fitted them because bearings aren't ideally suited to an oscillating load as brinelling causes early failure. The Nushings were the only bushings I could find to replace the bearings.

If there is some flexing, it's probably only a few microns and I can't think of any harm that would do. The universal joints will absorb any flexing that might affect the prop shaft and there's nothing I can think of on the final drive that needs critical alignment with the rest of the bike. I'm not saying you're wrong, but that's my opinion. Maybe there's something I haven't thought of?
Click to expand...
I get your comments and I share your thoughts on the rest of the assembly being tolerant to any flex. But microns we don't agree on.

Two thoughts:

1. Get a bicycle wheel, hold the spindle with both hands, spin the wheel and then move the axel off horizontal - move it about a bit. The resistance felt is with a bicycle wheel at about 0.1mph. So have a thought to a motorcycle wheel, its weight and speeds. Then take a look at the job of the paralever bearing.

2. As I confirmed last summer, that whole rear assembly can, in normal use, become so hot it's difficult to touch. I know nylatron has a good heat resistance but with point one above in mind, I'm personally not convinced that material is ideal. Apart from the torque arm (not that I imagine it contributes much the paralever bearing) to, all those forces are held by....the paralever bearing.

Saying all this, moonhead is happy with them and so are others. I'm just more in favour of metal offerings. I'm probably just old fashioned :-). But I'd bet it's flexing more than microns.










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I have the Nushings in my 04'. Over 25k at the moment on them, 1/2 of that is offroad packed heavy. No problems at all. Well worth the money
 
The only successful metal solution to that pivot joint bushing thus far has been the pricey OEM bearings
I think they are great, if you clean, rotate, and re grease them with some regularity, they would likely last 100,000 miles ( maybe more)

The issue with the attempts at bronze solutions are that they have the same give as the Nylatron, except once they distort, they are deformed, and voids form pretty rapidly from that point on.
Nylatron has the ability to deform and go right back to shape for the amount of movement needed in this specific application.

Play with bicycle wheels all you want, but if you want to install something cheaper than OEM bearings and ride for a long time with no worries, try the Nushings.
 
mouthfulloflake said:
The only successful metal solution to that pivot joint bushing thus far has been the pricey OEM bearings
I think they are great, if you clean, rotate, and re grease them with some regularity, they would likely last 100,000 miles ( maybe more)

The issue with the attempts at bronze solutions are that they have the same give as the Nylatron, except once they distort, they are deformed, and voids form pretty rapidly from that point on.
Nylatron has the ability to deform and go right back to shape for the amount of movement needed in this specific application.

Play with bicycle wheels all you want, but if you want to install something cheaper than OEM bearings and ride for a long time with no worries, try the Nushings.
Click to expand...
Well, if someone had the strength I'd actually suggest playing with motorcycle wheels... :-). Which kinda makes my point.

I'm interested though that you too expect they'll deform. I guess by how much is the question.

But maybe you misunderstood. I'm happy the nylatron is working for people. But for that particular joint, I am, personally, much happier with a rigid metal connection.

I think that detail on the paralever should probably feature as a service task. I mean lubing and flexing the joint periodically. It seems most of us, me included, tend to ignore it until it plays up, and then we moan about the cost of the bearing...



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Can you suggest a "rigid metal connection" other than the OEM tapered bearing?

"deform" is not really the right word, flex, maintain and return to shape is a more accurate way to describe what happens with the Nylatron in this scenario.

Most metals do not react in that manner.


Slipperyeel said:
Well, if someone had the strength I'd actually suggest playing with motorcycle wheels... :-). Which kinda makes my point.

I'm interested though that you too expect they'll deform. I guess by how much is the question.

But maybe you misunderstood. I'm happy the nylatron is working for people. But for that particular joint, I am, personally, much happier with a rigid metal connection.

I think that detail on the paralever should probably feature as a service task. I mean lubing and flexing the joint periodically. It seems most of us, me included, tend to ignore it until it plays up, and then we moan about the cost of the bearing...



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Click to expand...
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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