Black rims

Doofus

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Hi

Quick question... How robust is the finish on my 2011 black spoked rims?

I am wondering how harsh I can be with chemicals to try and dissolve some deposits that have caused me some problems with the valve. I think the deposits are made of the Dalton Highway and it has set like concrete.

Cheers
Darren
 
Daz

If it is the Dalton dirt causng the hassle it should just wash off. Dalton dust is very fine and sets rock hard but is normally easily desolved with water.

If you have a build up of hard dirt, spray with WD40 and leave it for a while which should do it and then try S-Doc 30 which is brilliant stuff. It's not cheap but is the best cleaner I have found.:thumb
 
The spokes will unavoidably rub into the alloy rim - normal for any spoked wheel. But the spokes are stainless so electrolytic corrosion will attack the alloy. Eventually causes the spokes to jam in their holes and for corrosion to appear on the rim face.

ACF-50 will lubricate the area and reduce corrosion just clean the rims with white spirit to remove tar spatter and brush ACF-50 onto the spoke ends.

Only snag is ACF-50 is greasy, even the (hard to achieve) micro layer, so the wheel wont look pristine for long.
 
Daz

If it is the Dalton dirt causng the hassle it should just wash off. Dalton dust is very fine and sets rock hard but is normally easily desolved with water.

If you have a build up of hard dirt, spray with WD40 and leave it for a while which should do it and then try S-Doc 30 which is brilliant stuff. It's not cheap but is the best cleaner I have found.:thumb

Cheers for the responses. I have actually had the wheel off and soaking in a massive tub of water for a day, and it still didn't come off. Also left over night with wd40 soaked rag on a spot. Never touched it. I've tried various other cleaners, but I've avoided anything too acidic on the rim (I risked vinegar and various bike cleaning stuff, but to no avail). I chipped off a sample and it dissolved with some nice fizzing in some nasty exhaust cleaner, but wondered what the rim was finished with before attacking it with battery acid.

The odd think is the front wheel rinsed off fine. I have never really cleaned a bike before, but now I'm determined not to be beaten by this, mainly because Chris said it would never be clean again, although to be fair, it looks like he's right.

Cheers
Darren
 
The rims are anodised aluminium alloy. Acids are less harmful than alkalis but the oxide layer is micro thin so no abrasives. Tar remover and paint thinners should be ok on anodising (see what Google says). Don't trust paint removers as they are usually alkali.

The hubs are painted with paint that's harder than the metal. i had to have my alloy wheels chemical dipped because grit blasting would have chewed away the base metal. The paint is great until it gets pinholes then corrosion runs riot hidden away. When it gets going (as it has on my wires) the only answer is to strip the wheel and chemical dip it.
 
The spokes will unavoidably rub into the alloy rim - normal for any spoked wheel. But the spokes are stainless so electrolytic corrosion will attack the alloy. Eventually causes the spokes to jam in their holes and for corrosion to appear on the rim face.

ACF-50 will lubricate the area and reduce corrosion just clean the rims with white spirit to remove tar spatter and brush ACF-50 onto the spoke ends.

Only snag is ACF-50 is greasy, even the (hard to achieve) micro layer, so the wheel wont look pristine for long.

I've witnessed black rims wrecked with muc off , I have silver so not mine but just sayin .
 
I've heard others say Muc Off is harmful. I believe its alkali based and any cleaning solution will get trapped in nooks and crannies such as spoke holes. I also believe the previous owner of my bike used it and I have some corrosion issues going on. But winter salt isn't exactly friendly, so who can say.
 
I've used Hein Gerickes gel cleaner (which I believe is just rebadged SDoc100) with good results, but be sure to apply to a wet rim, allow to soak for 5 to 10 minutes then agitate with a stiff bristled paintbrush, then wash off with hot soapy water and rinse. Under no circumstances leave it on the rim longer than 15 minutes.

If the first attempt doesn't get it all off, have another go but again, do not leave applied longer than 15 minutes before rinsing.
 
I know I'll be shot down for this but here goes....

FINE wire wool and WD40 does the trick, honest.

It certainly hasn't wrecked my black rims after they got really badly stained, came up like new.

Roger.
 
I've no intention to shoot anyone down but TBH wire wool isnt a good idea. The anodised oxide layer is very hard but also very thin. One rubbed through there is no protection for the base aluminium.

For black tar deposits the best stuff is proper turps (tar remover) or even cellulose thinner. Both are very risky on paint but ok on anodising. Rub it in with an ice lolly stick.
 


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