Blasting engine cases with baking soda

:blast. Thanks for that. I never checked to see if it had already been done to death but......no-one reported on whether it was worth making the effort. I wonder if it works as well as the thread implied.
John
 
Yes it works well. I used a cheap sand blast gun (A$25) with a small nozzle.

Try mixing the carb soda with water into a slurry -no dust :thumb2

Bulk carb soda is available from swimming pool shops. It's used to adjust pH and is cheap.

I cut out 1/4 of the side (length ways) of a 110 litre drum and made a mini spray booth to contain the mess and recycle some of the slurry.

You will get covered with it :eek:

Have done a BM motor, swing arm, diff etc in situ -somewhat messy but a nice finish.
 
That's an interesting slant on using the soda - not seen anyone else recommend mixing it into a slurry - having said that, not actually seen ANY reports of peeps experiences using it!!

What made you try the slurry method? Did the dry powder method not flow well - or was it just the mess it made?

Got all the gear here ready to use - just haven't had a go yet!!

I ordered a 20kg bag on t'internet - it was worth it just to see the postman stagger up to the front door with it!!

Mike
 
Gents

I've recently had my first experience of this. If you see my recent thread in this section called back in black you'll see what i used it on.

I too made the postman struggle with 20 kg of soda up the drive :D. I've still got most of it left too! I bought a £20 blasting gun from machine mart and also borrowed a less good but long nozzled one from my next door neighbour. I also borrowed his compressor so it was going to be a low cost and therefore low risk venture which suited me as I hadn't done it before.

Things I learnt. The process undoubtedly works in a fairly gentle sort of way. A lot of things can therefore be done in situ without too much worry about surrounding parts being damaged. It cleaned up my hubs and cylinder heads reasonably well. I say reasonably and no more because you need a good compressor for this to work. You'll want 90psi at the nozzle and most domestic type ones may make this at best but haven't a hope of maintaining it. IMO you need at least a 3hp motor and a 50 litre tank. Next time I shall hire one. I shall attempt to show some before and after pics in a minute.

I used my soda dry and it makes one hell of a mess. wear a mask and goggles as plenty of it occasionally flies back at you from nooks and crannies. Cant imagine what using it as a slurry is like. Go for it someone with pictures!
 
Before...
 

Attachments

  • IMG_3926.jpg
    IMG_3926.jpg
    84.8 KB · Views: 1,720
After...
 

Attachments

  • IMG_3950.jpg
    IMG_3950.jpg
    63.2 KB · Views: 1,638
Before again...
 

Attachments

  • IMG_3928.jpg
    IMG_3928.jpg
    60.9 KB · Views: 1,698
After again...
 

Attachments

  • IMG_3952.jpg
    IMG_3952.jpg
    77.3 KB · Views: 2,208
Didn't take any before pictures of the heads but you get the general impression. It's a pretty good method for a clean up and makeover and particularly good as you can do it at home.

One other thing that has just occurred to me reading the title of this thread. The process had no effect on the engine cases as this seemed to be a much harder alloy than the hubs and heads? Does anyone know this to be the case?
 
Yamaha1 said:
What made you try the slurry method? Did the dry powder method not flow well - or was it just the mess it made?


Mike
Click to expand...

Had looked into buying a commercial soda blaster and making a quid on the side with it but didn't proceed. The commercial unit used a slurry.

Carb soda doesn't naturally flow so can be a pain in the arse to use. (depends where the gun is pointing I 'spose :eek:)

Big aversion to breathing in dust regardless of how innocuous the product.

Ideally you would incorporate some form of mechanical agitiation to keep the slurry mixed -a 12 volt bilge pump or similar.

Had thought of mixing in a detergent to see if aided the cleaning process and helped keep the soda in suspension.

Wearing plastic painters overalls is a must :thumb

I agree, you need a decent compressor to get a good result - mine is a 3hp 3cylinder commercial unit so can deliver constant pressure. If you try with a dinky little one yu will be disappointed.

Have started on my R80 to bizarre off roader (:confused:) project so will be doing a bit of blasting along the way so I will post pics of the process and results.
 
Rich C said:
After again...
attachment.php
Click to expand...

Trouble is, once you've made a clean bit, where do you stop?... :D

I'd have had to carry on up those spokes and then you'd end up touching the rims, so...., and...., and....
 
"I'd have had to carry on up those spokes and then you'd end up touching the rims, so...., and...., and...."

Yup. That had occurred to me as well. Never mind. Thanks everyone for your input. Maybe I won't bother and just get out more.......
 
Wish I'd seen this before I took my rear wheel to a local sand blasting/powder coaters who advertise aluminium wheel refurbishing....

When I went to collect all they had done was to grit blast the whole thing rim, hub, spokes. The finish wouldn't have lasted 10 minutes on the road. When I complained they then laquered the whole thing which turned it to a sort of baby shit brown colour...:blast

Now waiting to see the the latest results after Easter with some trepidation.

Anyone got any suggestions other than litigation or kneecapping the idiots:augie
 
I think the only way to get a proper job is to get the wheel stripped down and rebuilt. I looked into getting my 1100 wheels done - broken down, rims and hub vapour blasted, hub powder coated, rim hard anodised, rebuilt with new stainless spokes.

It wasn't cheap (in the region of £300 / wheel) - not helped by only a couple of places being willing to rebuild oilhead cross spoke wheels. In the end I didn't bother. I don't think airhead wheels are cross spoke are they? - it should be easier/ cheaper with them.
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
You must log in or register to reply here.


Back
Top Bottom