Bling? No, more boing!

earthmover

opinionated, me?
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A few weeks ago Skygod let me take his triple Black for a spin. Yes, it has more grunt than mine, but what impressed me most was the Ohlins ESA under it. After some post ride banter, and a couple of interesting points from Jono, i went away thinking all things suspension.
An examination of my options revealed that new was not an option just at the moment. I resigned myself to plenty missed chances on ebay and the for sale forum.
Then last week, a post popped up with front and rear Ohlins for sale, and I managed to get my name on them before anyone else. :thumb
So on Monday, the postie brought me this:

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Which contained these: (Cheers Simon!)

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First job was to remove the tank panels. This revealed a substantial amount of dirt and grime, mostly down to the evil Sgt Bilco leading me astray....:D

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I normally have crash bars on, but had taken them off for a clean up and a lick of paint. Whether these would have hindered the operation, I couldn't say.
The top nut on the front shock came undone pretty easily, with an allen key holding the shaft from turning and a 15mm ring spanner turning one flat at a time. I managed this without moving the tank, but I have small girly hands.
The bottom bolt was a different matter. Hindsight would have warmed it up to free off the thread lock, but I just worked it back and forth with plenty of penetrating oil to get it out.

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Once everything was loose, I slid a bike lift under the sump, and jacked her up so the front wheel could drop as far as possible, then noticed the brake line was like a bow string! :eek: Quick twiddle with a torx and that was free, the wheel dropped another inch, and the top of the shock appeared through the hole.

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The Eagle eyed amongst you will have noticed the disappearance of the Touratech lock stop thingy. You cannot get the shock out with this in place. Don't try, you'll only take the paint off. :blast
The rubber mounting washers and sleeve swap straight over onto the Ohlins, reverse the process (apart from a 7mm open end spanner to hold the shaft instead of an allen key), and voila!

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The rear was a lot simpler, as I have taken that off before. You don't need to take the wheel off, but it gives you a bit more room to work.

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You do need to take the end can and connecting pipe off though.

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Both bolts came out easily, then wiggling the swing arm up and down released the shock. No difference in mounting hardware, the Ohlins goes straight in, just the preload adjuster to locate on the frame. (block of wood holding up swing arm out of shot)

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Then clean up, and bolt all the covers back on ready for a test ride!

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:bounce1 :bounce1 :bounce1
Mark
 
I was having the hots as well. :clap

My budget isnt up to Ohlins ESA so it will have to be Wilbers when mine goes AWOL or maybe a basic rebuild from elsewhere.
 
looking good possibly the best handling mod on any bike!!!
ride report next:beerjug:
 
ride report next:beerjug:

Only had chance to do a couple of test runs yet. Set the sag as per the manual, and the rebound about halfway. Have slowed the rebound down just a bit, but need more miles on it yet.
First impressions are very good though! :thumb
At town speeds, which is where I felt the original shocks too harsh, it is a huge improvement, I'm actually aiming for potholes now.........
Mark
 
Nice job:thumby:
Are Ohlins considered better than Wilbers? or are they both thought to be about the same:nenau

I fitted Ohlins last year and really rate them. 2 Alaska trips, all kinds of roads you can imagine and the ride is fantastic in all conditions. I had them set up properly and have never adjusted them.

Sure, they are expensive but if your bike is a long termer in your garage, they are well worth the loot:thumby:

From what I gather, Wilburs are excellent as well and I wouldn't have thought there was much in the performance.
 
Ohlins Option

Found this on the forum, using the original parts and then fitting the Ohlins seems a good option:-

http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=334606

Or, you could ride to the manufacturer near Misano (ideal for MotoGP) and get them to do it.

http://www.andreanigroup.com/en-us/...oId=11261&modelloRepartoId=12212&reparto=moto

From what I can make of it the pair are 1256 EURO, making them about or about £ 1,100.

The money "saved" can get you to the MotoGP for what may well be VR46 last race in Italy:rob
 
Ideally service them according to manufacturer's demands. Otherwise get then serviced, as soon as they show signs of needing the damping turning up. Oil oil will wear things out internally and performance shocks are less able to cope.
 


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