Bosch Battery deeead in 1150 adv...water...low

[colesyboy]

The water or acid or the other clear liquid that is in my bosch battery was pretty low after I took it out (as the bike was v low on juice - didnt start / headlights wont come on etc). Looking at it in the bloody hot sun (v hot here in Cambodia) it seemed that about 40-45% of the juice had evaporated. Every time I looked at it when riding in the past month, it had been hovering around the "min" mark. I left it for 2 weeks (in a shady area but still in hot sun environment) and took the battery out today. Not sure if it can be given the kiss of life.

Any ideas guys on the chances of it being reliable again? Do you need more info?

The battery is about 6 months old - bought in Croatia - now in Cambodia, been riding about 20,000km with it.

Cheers

Brian

 

[colesyboy]

Definately dead

The battery was pretty kaput according a supplier of batteries, beyond recharge etc.

So, the only battery out there in Pnom Pen of the size that that fits is a dry battery. It only had just over 12v in it, so is recharging now.

What the bejeezus is a dry battery - is it any good, will it last me the next 6 weeks?

Trying to find out online, but not getting very far.

Cheers all,

Brian

 

[Tsiklonaut]

If it's unrepairable get a new temporary one.

You can fit any circa 12V output battery basically, a serie of handlamp batteries till the other wet batteries for other vehicles, just make sure it's powerful enough to start the bike (try it first before buying). A good fresh battery can indicate 12.3 to 12.8 Volts, when the engine running over 14V even, so it's normal when it shows more. I've heard dry batteries can do some 0.1-0.3V more than the regular wet ones and dry ones are, more powerful, also more resistant for vibrations and shocks (military vehicles and tanks use dry batteres btw), so shouldn't be a problem.

Put a tape+cloth to fit/fix a smaller "third world moped" battery onto your 1150's big 19Ah battery hole, so it doesn't get any vibrations etc.

Be cautios tho, poor quality batteries may "explode" (nothing serious happends other than the acid damages your bike's paint below it), so inspect the temporary battery often, optically. But hell yeah, any battery should do the job for you temporary no prob!


A theorethical side note: me guess all over 9-11Ah battery's should be sufficent to start the R11xx engine with 1.1kW starter motor(?)

Where's Steptoe when we need him

 

[colesyboy]

Battery dramas ....

Cheers Tsik I appreciate the response.

Well the dramas here in Pnom Penh continue. After I got this new battery back, I tried and the bikes dashboard lights lit up beautifully - upon starting though I could here the bike was not getting enough power as sure enough after a couple of second the clicks came back....I then discovered that the battery was only put on charge for 1 hour ...probably less!

Now I really am not an expert on batteries but I'm pretty sure that they need a bit of umph in them for longer than 1 hour to charge up. The bike has not been started for over 2 weeks so pretty sure it needs a decent whack to get it going again.

The new battery says this on the side : 12v17ah - 12volts 17amps yes? This is alright as I understand.

The "battery man"- ie: a man on the pavement covered in batteries with a huge generator reckons that the battery meter he has should not show more than 12v when the battery is connected. I tell him that it needs at least 12.5v to get the bike started. I'm bloody sure that my last battery showed 12.75 volts when bike not started, all lights etc off.

Am I going mental? What ideally should the battery show in volts when not connected to the bike? How much volts should the battery show in order to start the bike? Bike has ABS.

Cheers guys,

Off to try and learn more about batteries.

Brian

 

[Tsiklonaut]

ABS needs 12.3V I measured mine. Dunno how different is servo assisted ABS needed initial voltage, mine is ABS II - the simpler and more bomb proof version.

My bike starts down to some 11.5-11.0V, so the ABS will be leaved off then. But less than 11V the starter relay seem to kick in and no starter action.

17Ah battery should be very good.

Try to refill yer old battery with destilled water up to the level and recharge, maybe this helps if it's stood over 2 weeks.

You can get a help from a car owners to start the bike with a dead battery - with the "crocodille-wires" from the car battery use the battery contacts under the tank (bulkyer, you need 3 hands) or remove the plastic cover LH side under the tank where the 12V socket is on, there you can have direct "+" contact and put another on the firm ground (i.e. use centre stand where the paint is worn off).

(+ goes to +)

(- goes to -)

So the two batteries are connected. And start her up.

Margus

Cheers Tsik I appreciate the response.

Well the dramas here in Pnom Penh continue. After I got this new battery back, I tried and the bikes dashboard lights lit up beautifully - upon starting though I could here the bike was not getting enough power as sure enough after a couple of second the clicks came back....I then discovered that the battery was only put on charge for 1 hour ...probably less!

Now I really am not an expert on batteries but I'm pretty sure that they need a bit of umph in them for longer than 1 hour to charge up. The bike has not been started for over 2 weeks so pretty sure it needs a decent whack to get it going again.

The new battery says this on the side : 12v17ah - 12volts 17amps yes? This is alright as I understand.

The "battery man"- ie: a man on the pavement covered in batteries with a huge generator reckons that the battery meter he has should not show more than 12v when the battery is connected. I tell him that it needs at least 12.5v to get the bike started. I'm bloody sure that my last battery showed 12.75 volts when bike not started, all lights etc off.

Am I going mental? What ideally should the battery show in volts when not connected to the bike? How much volts should the battery show in order to start the bike? Bike has ABS.

Cheers guys,

Off to try and learn more about batteries.

Brian

 

[colesyboy]

now its starts - just ...but....

Thanks again Tsik

The bike feels like its going to stall all the time, the exhaust farts and coughs all the time and doesnt feel too well. I get an occasional "cheep" sound - similar to when the abs kicks in, but its a very short, barely audible cheep when riding it.

The throttle cables are seated ok, because its making the same rough noise as when you take the tank off and displace them.

The battery is back to front ie: the terminals are pointing a the front of the bike rather to the rear, so I have had to stretch the cables so its all very taught in there, but it was making the same noise yesterday when I started the bike with the battery out of its holding case in the bike, cables not taught then.

Any ideas chaps? Thanks a lot.

Brian

 

[Blackal]

If a portion of the plates have been exposed to air (low acid level) and the battery cycled - then topping up with distilled water after that, will not recover the lost capacity.

It is better to top up the battery with ordinary fresh water (if distilled/de-ionised water not available) , than to allow the level of electrolyte to drop below the plate top level.

Al