Bosnia, Montenegro, Albania, Macedonia…

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Damir

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There are some questions about Albania, Macedonia and other countries in the region, so I hope this ride report can be helpful to someone.

Trip lasted for five days, we visited Bosnia and Herzegovina, Montenegro, Albania, Macedonia and Serbia. Crew consisted of dr.chala and his wife Xenia on V Strom and I on GS 1200. Dr.chala and Xenia visited area two years ago so they had pretty clear picture what areas are worth visiting. Xenia also took majority of pictures in this report.
Zoltan joined us for first day.

Report can be also called “Extreme heat report” because temperature rarely dropped under 30 degrees Celsius.

Day One, Zagreb – Sarajevo

Friday and Monday (22. and 26.06) are holidays in Croatia, so we skipped last few hours of work on Thursday and hit the road around half past two. Border was crossed at Hrvatska Kostajnica. Border policeman asked Zoltan: “Are you Zoltan from Croatian motorcycle forum?” Cool.

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First stop was near Banja Luka, it was terribly hot, northern part of Bosnia is flat, so we didn’t enjoy riding at all. It will soon change, as we entered Vrbas river canyon.

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Next pictures show power plant near city of Jajce, turbines and other machinery are placed into tunnels inside mountain, and water comes from nearby Plivsko lake trough 5700 meters long tunnel with diameter of 5,40 meters.

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Following Vrbas we arrived in Jajce (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jajce), small city on the confluence of the rivers Pliva and Vrbas. Jajce has very rich history, but it gained prominence during the Second World War because it hosted the second convention of the Anti-Fascist Council of National Liberation of Yugoslavia (AVNOJ) on November 29, 1943, a meeting that set the foundation for the Socialist Federal Republic of Yugoslavia after WWII.

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We also visited Pliva Lake, near the city.

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Trip continued trough Central Bosnia. We passed through very dense cloud of bugs, at first I thought it was raining. Picture was taken next day.

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We reached Sarajevo around ten o’clock and settled in BM hotel (http://www.bracamujic.com/). Zoltan’s friend Ivo was waiting for us in Sarajevo. We will part our ways tomorrow morning, as they had different travel plan than rest of us.

It was time for some local food and walk trough city centre.

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Day Two, Sarajevo – Bar (Montenegro)

Berislav from Croatian motorcycle forum is living in Sarajevo, so he took us around the city.

When in Sarajevo you must try chevap, sort of authentic fast food. It is very tasty, so we cannot resist eating it even for breakfast, after eating it night before.

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We went to see Sarajevo Tunnel (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sarajevo_Tunnel), it will be impossible to find it without Berislav’s help.

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We left Sarajevo and headed towards eastern Bosnia.

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After Foca major road reconstruction is in progress, so there is mixture of new asphalt and gravel sections.

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Heat is unbearable, so you have to envy these lucky people.

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Finally, we crossed into Montenegro.

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Piva canyon is beautiful.

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We turned towards Zabljak and headed into the mountains, precisely Durmitor National Park.

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As we were heading towards Durmitorsko Sedlo (sedlo means saddle), asphalt stopped. There were about 10 km of gravel.

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We made little detour to visit Djurdjevica Tara Bridge, engineering marvel from 1930’s. It was built between 1937 and 1940, designed by Mijat Trojanovic, who oversaw the building of the bridge. When it was finished, it was the biggest vehicular concrete arch bridge in Europe.
The bridge is 365 m long, and has five arches, the biggest having span of 116 m. Distance between the roadbed and the river is 172 m.

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Monument with Cyrillic letters is for one of the bridge engineers, Lazar Jaukovic, who blew up the central arch, cutting off the only feasible crossing over the the gorge and thus blocking the Italian/Chetnik advance during WWII in 1942. It was a heroic act that cost Jaukovic his life. When he was eventually captured, the Italians executed the engineer on his bridge.

Day was far from over, as we have to reach Montenegro coast. Rest of the trip was quite uneventful after all the beautiful sights earlier in the day. We stopped to meet our friend Ivan near Podgorica, and ended day in Bar enjoying our friend Gasho’s hospitality.

To be continued…
 
Nice report Damir! :thumb2

Can you tell me where these mountains are situated?

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I'm maybe on the way through Albania, Serbia, Bosnia, Croatia in september. Maybe a little stop in Sarajevo and Zagreb.

I have particular interest in Albania, any recommendations what to see or where to go there?

TIA, Margus :beerjug:
 
Thanks Damir!

I'm in the habit of riding through Eastern Europe each year, and the more I go, the more I like it. Albania and Macedonia are still on my "To Do List", but hopefully next year on my way back from Moldova (I have permission from my wife to visit again next year), I'll return to Germany via a more Southerly route.
 
Hi Margus,

Mountain is called Durmitorsko Sedlo and it is situated in Durmitor National Park, Montenegro.

http://members.virtualtourist.com/vt/gm/722732

It is on section from Pivsko Jezero (Lake) towards Zabljak.

I’ve got complete GPS log (.gdb) but it is too big, so I can’t upload it here.

PM me if you need it.

We just passed through Albania, I will post more about Albania later today.
 

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Day Three, Bar-Ohrid (Macedonia)

Day started with breakfast in our friend’s Gasho restaurant. With our bellies full we were ready to hit the road. We headed towards Ulcinj and Albanian border.

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Dr.chala and Xenia were in Albania two years ago, but it was first time for me. Main concern was road condition, because they encountered some terrible sections last time, but we choose different route this time (Tirana – Elbasan-border).

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If I must describe Albania in one word I will choose contrast. You can notice from pictures. There are modern cars and donkeys on the streets. When cars are concerned Albanians prefer Mercedes in all shapes, sizes and conditions.

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Entry in Tirana (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tirana) was interesting. There is no asphalt, it was terribly hot, and dust was everywhere. As we entered deeper into city it started looking much more normal. Main square is built in communist style with very wide streets and monumental buildings.

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George Bush was in Tirana few days before.

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After leaving Tirana we headed into mountains towards Elbasan (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Elbasan).

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Finally, we reached Albania – Macedonia border. Landscape is full of bunkers in Albanian side, they were built during the rule of communist dictator Enver Hoxha (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Enver_Hoxha).

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You have to pay 10 Euro for entering Albania, and 2 Euro for exit. On exit Albanian border officials tried to invent some non existing problem, and probably earn some extra money, but we were not in mood to give them anything. It lasted for 10-20 minutes, and then they let us go.

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Macedonian border official was little rude, acting like big boss, but he didn’t make any problems.

Ohrid (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ohrid) is tourist centre of Macedonia, situated on banks of Ohrid Lake, city has very long and rich history.

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After finding accommodation, we took little walk through the city and enjoyed some local cuisine. Food was very tasty and cheap.

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To be continued…
 
Day Four, Ohrid – Belgrade

Day started with visit to Sveti Naum (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sveti_Naum).

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After seeing Sveti Naum, we headed towards Galicica National Park (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galičica). From Galicica you have perfect view of Ohrid (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lake_Ohrid) and Prespa lakes.

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Back to Ohrid, we are ready to head towards Serbia, but we decided to take detour and explore Black Drim Canyon (or Drin, not 100% sure about spelling).

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Our Macedonian friends told us that nature in canyon is beautiful, but it left us somehow disappointed. We were probably tired, and heat has taken its tall.
We were really short on time, and we planned to spent the night in Belgrade and meet our friends there. So it was quick ride, without sightseeing. There is highway from south of Skopje to border with Serbia. Border crossing was OK, no problem on either side. About first 100 km into Serbia, you got nice road, without too much traffic, and somewhere around Leskovac highway starts again. We arrived in Belgrade around 22 o’clock. Had cool time with our friends, and went to bed around 2 o’clock. Tomorrow is last day, we had to work day after tomorrow.


Last Day, Belgrade – Zagreb

We started early, because we wanted to avoid heat and traffic jams in Belgrade. We headed towards Novi Sad to meet our friend Joseph.

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After drink in biker friendly place called Route 66 we headed towards Croatian border.

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After crossing Danube, we are back in Croatia. First place to visit is Vukovar, scene of the biggest battle in Croatian War of Independence (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Croatian_War_of_Independence).

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Last stop was Osijek, center of Slavonia region (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Slavonia).

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Late afternoon we were back in Zagreb. Trip lasted for five days, we made around 2.400 km. Dr.chala planned the route, Xenia took majority of pictures in this report, and I was just humble reporter.

Thanks for reading!
 
Great report Damir. Currently in Banja Luka prior to going home and exploring roads around here. The canyons and mountains are wonderful. So looking forward to ride home via Mostar and down to Dubrovnik and then some island hopping back up north towards Krk and then home.

While at it, Tomic and Co, nice people, fixed my poorly 12GS - very reasonable rates compared with UK! Just need to work on the border police being a bit more friendly and job done.
 
Well would you believe it !

Well Looking through the pictures and I notice a very fine figure of a man in the Route 66 picture with fine white Englishman legs ! Of sturdy Brummie stock me thinks !

UKGSERS you cant hide anywhere !
 
Great pics and ride report, very informative and really puts this part of the world on my 'radar' thanks Damir :beerjug:
 
Nice photos

and glad to see that part of the world has settled down. I was being shot at not solong ago around that part of the world.

Im Glad that peace has come to Bosnia it made it all worth while.
 
Interesting:clap

nice site we used to drag race Warriors on the run way at Glamoc

Glad its better there now
 
Tremendous report, Damir. :clap

Some brilliant photos in there - somewhere new for me to think about going over the next year or two.
 
Thanks Damir,

I'm researching a short run through Bosnia from Balaton to Split next summer.

Two days in BiH including an overnight in Banja Luka on the way south, then a long day via Mostar and Medugorje ending up in Split for a couple of days of loafing around on the seaside.

Any problems with the borders? Did you have any long delays?
 
Hi Paul,

No, we haven't got any delays or any other problems crossing between Croatia and Bosnia. You have to show your passport. Maybe you will have your bike papers checked, especially when entering Bosnia. Check if your insurance company is covering Bosnia.

Croatia is very touristy country, so you can expect lots of tourists, especially in July and August. Any other period will be OK.
 
Damir

Thank's for a fantastic ride report and awesome photo's :thumb2,I hope to visit that part of the World in the future.

Schultz
 
Hi Paul,

No, we haven't got any delays or any other problems crossing between Croatia and Bosnia. You have to show your passport. Maybe you will have your bike papers checked, especially when entering Bosnia. Check if your insurance company is covering Bosnia.

Croatia is very touristy country, so you can expect lots of tourists, especially in July and August. Any other period will be OK.


Thanks Damir. I'm with eBike and they don't and won't cover BiH. I checked with BMW Insurance and the same goes for them in case I felt like jumping ship later in the year.

I asked Carol Nash last week and although I got the stock automatic reply I've heard f.a from a human.

According the the BiH equiv of the RAC/AA/ADAC three days insurance is €26 for three days at the border.

We'll see eh?
 


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