Brake discs.

[GedJack]

Need to replace all the discs and pads on my 1150 GS.
Can anyone recommend the best place to get some from please.

Or does anyone know of any deals on at the mo ?

 

[beemer pimp]

James Sherlock

Val

2 bikes , twice is happy

 

[fatnfast]

Or steptoe http://www.gsshop.biz/shop/1150-gs.html

 

[JonF]

Or steptoe http://www.gsshop.biz/shop/1150-gs.html

Out of stock

 

[GedJack]

Thanks folks, I'll give Steptoe a shout and see when he's re stocking.

 

[Magnon]

Could also try Moto-bins, they normally have a VAT free day early in the season but i think you have to be there on the day to make the saving.

 

[Harry Nicholson]

Try www.allbikeengineering.co.uk . I`ve used them for the supply of rotors on my K100rs . Good price & service .

Cheers

Harry

 

[mspenz]

Go for Sherlocks Hekkane, I have them front & rear on my GSA and cannot fault them.

 

[hughguzzi]

Dont forget the new wavy washers and the right strength threadlock !

 

[steadysteve]

Try www.allbikeengineering.co.uk . I`ve used them for the supply of rotors on my K100rs . Good price & service .

Cheers

Harry

+1 for ABE - used these on an 1150GS with no problems.

Used Hekkane on my RT- one warped after about 2000 miles. They weren`t binding either, or used hard. Maybe just a `one off`?

 

[GedJack]

Dont forget the new wavy washers and the right strength threadlock !

What strength thread lock do I need ?
Do you need to replace the bolts ?

 

[DutchBryn]

Just out of interest, does anyone know what do oe discs cost?

 

[GedJack]

Priced them today.............£200

 

[hughguzzi]

Hi GedJack -
Before you remove the bolts holding the discs on get some heat onto them to soften the threadlock or you can strip the thread holes !
I didnt replace my bolts with new - if they are damaged or worn then possibly replace but cant see why this would be the case ?

The manual says to clean up the 'faces' (of the bolt holes) on the wheel where the disc is attached to and sits directly against
Check these 'faces' for damage or wear - you can get thin stainless repair washers to give a new flat seat for the disc to move against (these repair washers go between the back of the disc and the wheel mounting hole)
Clean up the mounting threaded holes and male bolt threads of old threadlock as far as you can (screw bolt in and back out/wire brush), install disc the correct way around so that the 'drillings' (lines of 4 holes) flow back from the direction of rotation (at top of disc).
Spoke wheels use loctite 243 (medium) on the bolt threads to a torque of - Front 24Nm (R models with spoked wheels and GS models, all others 21Nm), Rear - 21Nm.

Torque is important because these are small shouldered bolts carrying out a pretty essential function !! - Don't hang around too long before tightening up to final torque as the loctite goes off fairly quickly !
I fitted the disc with finger tight bolts holding everything in its correct place (the repair washers can be a right bastid and move so you cant get the bolts in) then remove each in turn to apply threadlock, fit and torque up.
You will probably find some of the wavy stainless washers which allow a little disc float will be broken so may as well replace them all anyway (don't cost much) and these sit between the flat head of the bolt and the outside face of the disc. (have a look before taking the discs off and you'll see what I mean)
This info taken from the Haynes manual also tips I found out from here when doing my own and have had no problems !
good luck !

 

[GedJack]

Thanks for that most helpful reply.
Out of interest what discs did you go for ?

Hi GedJack -
Before you remove the bolts holding the discs on get some heat onto them to soften the threadlock or you can strip the thread holes !
I didnt replace my bolts with new - if they are damaged or worn then possibly replace but cant see why this would be the case ?

The manual says to clean up the 'faces' (of the bolt holes) on the wheel where the disc is attached to and sits directly against
Check these 'faces' for damage or wear - you can get thin stainless repair washers to give a new flat seat for the disc to move against (these repair washers go between the back of the disc and the wheel mounting hole)
Clean up the mounting threaded holes and male bolt threads of old threadlock as far as you can (screw bolt in and back out/wire brush), install disc the correct way around so that the 'drillings' (lines of 4 holes) flow back from the direction of rotation (at top of disc).
Spoke wheels use loctite 243 (medium) on the bolt threads to a torque of - Front 24Nm (R models with spoked wheels and GS models, all others 21Nm), Rear - 21Nm.

Torque is important because these are small shouldered bolts carrying out a pretty essential function !! - Don't hang around too long before tightening up to final torque as the loctite goes off fairly quickly !
I fitted the disc with finger tight bolts holding everything in its correct place (the repair washers can be a right bastid and move so you cant get the bolts in) then remove each in turn to apply threadlock, fit and torque up.
You will probably find some of the wavy stainless washers which allow a little disc float will be broken so may as well replace them all anyway (don't cost much) and these sit between the flat head of the bolt and the outside face of the disc. (have a look before taking the discs off and you'll see what I mean)
This info taken from the Haynes manual also tips I found out from here when doing my own and have had no problems !
good luck !

 

[hughguzzi]

Round ones



I think I got them from Sherlocks - whatever they supplied.

 

[Grizzly]

The only thing I would add to the above is that if your current discs do NOT have the protection/repair washers fitted BEHIND them between disc and hub then FIT THEM NOW.
You can buy them from BMW - 34 11 7 670 217 - you need 10 off (8x20x1mm thick)

Also, check the alloy bobbins that locate the disc for wear- they tend to get two flats where the disc wears them. Either renew them or you can refit them rotated 90 degrees so the disc locates on a "new" part of bobbin (as long as that hasn't been done already!)

Lastly, I've used Grimeca discs supplied by Motobins, both front and rear, over many years and found them excellent - they're also identical to OEM discs - if that's important to you.


Cheers......................Grizzly

 

[GedJack]

This forum is excellent, thanks for all the help and advice. I'll get started on it next week.

 

[mspenz]

+1 for ABE - used these on an 1150GS with no problems.

Used Hekkane on my RT- one warped after about 2000 miles. They weren`t binding either, or used hard. Maybe just a `one off`?

Had the same problem with ABE discs, both warped after 3k miles...12k so far with Hekkane and all good (1mm shims behind the RH disc & doubled up the wavy washers to remove any play on the LH disc).

 

[mspenz]

You can buy them from BMW - 34 11 7 670 217 - you need 10 off (8x20x1mm thick)

If you have an ABS ring on the left side you will probably only have to fit 5 to the right disc and double up the wavy washers on the left if there's too much float due to the ring being compressed / worn.