Brake Pad Change

[gb's]

I need to change the rear brake pads on my GS1200 before a trip to France next week. Unable to get it in for its service until Sept.

The question is are there any special considerations with changing the pads. I am familiar with the gen principal of pad changes having done it many times on various bikes. But never on a bike with servo assisted brakes.

I have heard the servo assistance makes it v difficult to push the pistons back into the caliper without allowing some of the brake fluid out of the bleed nipple. Is this the case in your experience? Are their any other things I should be particularly carefull of?

Thanks for your suggestions

Graham

 

[gsman1]

Push pads in SLOWLY by hand one at a time. When pushing in each piston you must hold the other otherwise it wil come out as you push the other piston in.Pushing in too quickly can damage the servo pump, no need to remove any brake fliud.

I need to change the rear brake pads on my GS1200 before a trip to France next week. Unable to get it in for its service until Sept.

The question is are there any special considerations with changing the pads. I am familiar with the gen principal of pad changes having done it many times on various bikes. But never on a bike with servo assisted brakes.

I have heard the servo assistance makes it v difficult to push the pistons back into the caliper without allowing some of the brake fluid out of the bleed nipple. Is this the case in your experience? Are their any other things I should be particularly carefull of?

Thanks for your suggestions

Graham

 

[GSmonkey]

Have done it a few times. Just push the pistons in gently by hand. No drama, no bleeding, no knackered servos, no flashing lights.....quite boring really

 

[kdude]

Hi ... just curious how many miles or kms do you have on your bike. Are you just changing the rear ?

 

[JayGee]

I've just changed mine at 9,500 miles. It's easiest to romove the caliper so you can see what's happening (but not strictly necessary). I just pushed the pistons in with my thumb, they went in very easily and pushing one in didn't seem to push the other out. It's all explained (my Mouse, I think) in the FAQ section.
The new pads are a bit strange as they are different thickness to each other but you can't get them in the wrong way. It's an easy five minute job with no complications- just the same as any other bike.

 

[gb's]

Thanks for all the helpful replys.

Kdude, bike has done 5100, rear pads only being replaced.

 

[Greg Masters]

Drift out the pad retaining pin before you remove the caliper from its mounting.



Greg

 

[gb's]

Thanks Greg wish I had read your post before doing the job, still no major problems, can confirm the outside (piston side) pad was worn down to around 1mm with the low wear indicator hole see through. Inside pad had slightly more material left.

 

[kdude]

I've just changed mine at 9,500 miles. It's easiest to romove the caliper so you can see what's happening (but not strictly necessary). I just pushed the pistons in with my thumb, they went in very easily and pushing one in didn't seem to push the other out. It's all explained (my Mouse, I think) in the FAQ section.
The new pads are a bit strange as they are different thickness to each other but you can't get them in the wrong way. It's an easy five minute job with no complications- just the same as any other bike.

I have 21,000 kms on my bike and the pads still look they got a little left in them. I'm surprised that your changing your pads so soon.... is this info. from the dealer or did you check it out yourself ? hp

 

[JayGee]

I have 21,000 kms on my bike and the pads still look they got a little left in them. I'm surprised that your changing your pads so soon.... is this info. from the dealer or did you check it out yourself ? hp

I'd decided to change the pads a bit early as I was doing a track day followed by a holiday on the bike. The pads were not worn down to the wear hole indicator but were well worn. I might have got another 5000 miles out of them but I'm not suire so I stuck the new ones in as I'd already bought them. At 9,500 miles it's not alot of miles I agree but according to others on this forum this wear rate is a lot less than some. The dealer says they are replacing a lot of rear pads at quite low mileages. I seldom ride in traffic, I don't commute and I seldom use the brakes so I'm also at a loss as to why they've worn so quickly.

 

[drdata]

My new pads were sintered, and since install far less brake dust. I think the issue is that some bikes have organics, and others sintered (as speced for I-ABS), hence difference in wear rates.

 

[JayGee]

No idea whether sintered or not, I just bought them from my dealer. They are the same part as those for the R1100 so there's nothing very new about them. I assume the sintered are after market fitment.

 

[drdata]

These were genuine BMW, part number # 34 21 7 660 281. Came with a warning for use with intergral ABS only. Not sure if your bike has integral.

Cheers

 

[JayGee]

These were genuine BMW, part number # 34 21 7 660 281. Came with a warning for use with intergral ABS only. Not sure if your bike has integral.

Cheers

I do have the integral ABS, all the early bikes came with this in the UK. The part no of the pads I got from the dealer as replacements is:- 34.21.2.335.465 (desription says "rear pads R1100").
I think this means they are not sintered and will probably wear out in pretty quickly again.

 

[drdata]

I do have the integral ABS, all the early bikes came with this in the UK. The part no of the pads I got from the dealer as replacements is:- 34.21.2.335.465 (desription says "rear pads R1100").
I think this means they are not sintered and will probably wear out in pretty quickly again.

Dunno. As I understand, the I-ABS generates more force, and hence needs stronger pads (at the expense of rotor wear).

regards

 

[Greg Masters]

Dunno. As I understand, the I-ABS generates more force, and hence needs stronger pads (at the expense of rotor wear).

The R1100GS, R1150GS, R1150GSA and R1200GS pads are all the same dimensions.

I suspect that, over the years, BMW have changed the pad material from organic to sintered and, perhaps, back again. The friction rate will vary between pad material, disc material and temperature (even rubbing speed has a small effect) and the wear rate of both pad and disc will similarly vary.

The diffent combinations will mean different pedal pressures to achieve a common retardation rate, and, if you have linked brakes, will affect the front-rear braking bias.

However, the ABS will release the brake when a certain wheel deceleration is measured or speed differential between front and rear wheels is measured. Friction rates variables don't come into the ABS operation.

Greg

 

[drdata]

However, the ABS will release the brake when a certain wheel deceleration is measured or speed differential between front and rear wheels is measured. Friction rates variables don't come into the ABS operation.

Greg

I understand. By I-ABS I meant integral ABS, which is (apparantly) different from regular ABS, even though servos may be involved.

Anyway, I feel it odd that MAX BMW in Chicago lists only organic pads for the r12GS, with I-ABS, yet my dealer gives me a set of OEM pads that are clearly sintered, and come with a warning for I-ABS only. A lot less dust with these pads, so I know I had organics as original kit. My stupid scanner is broke so this was the best I could do:

 

[JayGee]

I know others on this forum have sintered pads in the rear and they have no complaints/problems but I do seem to remember someone saying the front use sintered the rear should be organic.

 

[Mouse]

Mine (ABS model) came with organic pads in the rear, which lasted about 4,000 miles. Replaced them with EBC sintered ones, which are still going strong at 18,000 miles. No noticable disc wear either.