Brakes & winter riding

[GAG]

For all you winter riders. I went for a run yesterday and after 30 miles the bike started to slow down as if running out of fuel, I had to give it some throttle just to get it the 100 yards to get to a petrol station. As I got off I could smell burning, on inspection the front right disc had changed colour and was like a hot iron to touch. I have owned Yamahas and Kawasaki's, and the brake pistons on both would start to seize after a winters running. After cooling down I rode the last 20 miles home using only the rear brake.
Fearing the worst I started to strip the caliper down. On the Kawasaki the pistons would be solid, requiring mole grips and the like to move the pistons. I was pleasantly surprised to find that the pistons were fine and you could move them with your fingers, what had seized was the brake pads, a clean and a little copper grease and all was well.
This is just a cautionary note for anyone riding in this weather to maybe give their brake pads a once over

 

[(RIP) sherpa]

or...

For all you winter riders. I went for a run yesterday and after 30 miles the bike started to slow down as if running out of fuel, I had to give it some throttle just to get it the 100 yards to get to a petrol station. As I got off I could smell burning, on inspection the front right disc had changed colour and was like a hot iron to touch. I have owned Yamahas and Kawasaki's, and the brake pistons on both would start to seize after a winters running. After cooling down I rode the last 20 miles home using only the rear brake.
Fearing the worst I started to strip the caliper down. On the Kawasaki the pistons would be solid, requiring mole grips and the like to move the pistons. I was pleasantly surprised to find that the pistons were fine and you could move them with your fingers, what had seized was the brake pads, a clean and a little copper grease and all was well.
This is just a cautionary note for anyone riding in this weather to maybe give their brake pads a once over

.....just make sure that you hose down well with COLD water after EVERY winter ride.
44,000 miles and no trouble with seizing
Sherps

 

[Ste@SSB]

.....just make sure that you hose down well with COLD water after EVERY winter ride.
44,000 miles and no trouble with seizing
Sherps

Thats the one ... all the do da's and ding danglies don't mean s**t if the bugger won't move...

I remember riding a ZZR11 a few years ago and not realising that the front calipers where seized ... I just thought it was a bit tame ... till the front wheel lifted ... ...

 

[marcus]

top tip as mine generally gets washed when I hear it's been snowing on Ayers Rock.

Jet wash on the way home it is then

 

[tricky dicky]

Marcus - I am not overly keen on jet wash's - but my experience is that water only jet washses are not on the menu. Am I labouring under a misconception?

Rich

 

[Mouse]

No harm in using a jet wash as long as you are careful, IMHO.

Avoid bearings, mainly the wheel bearings, swinging arm and shock absorber mounts. You aren't going to harm a brake caliper with a jet wash.

Having said that, there's no substitute for taking the pads out and giving it a good clean with a soft brush - I use a toothbrush.

 

[JAY]

For all you winter riders. I went for a run yesterday and after 30 miles the bike started to slow down as if running out of fuel, I had to give it some throttle just to get it the 100 yards to get to a petrol station. As I got off I could smell burning, on inspection the front right disc had changed colour and was like a hot iron to touch.

Exactly the same problem this afternoon with my ST. Ironic that I was on my way back from the dealers where I was arranging for the free brake check! It's a bugga 'cause I always rinse the brakes down after riding during the winter. Just hoping that the disc hasn't warped!

 

[Dave Price]

OTT I know, but I always take my bike for a quick 5 mile spin after washing and apply the brakes a few times to warm them up.

 

[Pukmeister]

Dissimilar metals such as steel brake pad backings, alloy caliper housings, stainless steel pistons plus salt and water. Because of these metals having a difference in affinity for oxygen when introduced to an electrolyte, if theres a better combination for encouraging corrosion mankind is probably yet to discover it. Strip and clean them regularly, or suffer the inevitable consequences at your peril.

 

[Mouse]

Dissimilar metals such as steel brake pad backings, alloy caliper housings, stainless steel pistons ...

The pistons are nylon (or something similar) which certainly helps matters, although this means you have to be more careful when cleaning them - no emery paper!

 

[cookie]

The pistons are nylon (or something similar)

teflon coated aluminium?

 

[JAY]

The brake pad backing plates seem to be copper plated - some form of plating anyway. Just wondering about the wisdom of filing the ends down a little to give a bit more clearance. When I got my pads out, there was very little crud in there and the pistons were completely clean. The pad locating pin though was pretty corroded - on a 6 month old bike which has hardly seen winter yet!

 

[GAG]

OTT I know, but I always take my bike for a quick 5 mile spin after washing and apply the brakes a few times to warm them up.

Why would you wash your bike, then go back on the road to cover it in salt again
Where I live we seem to have constant salted roads for at least 3 months of the year, and even washing the bike when I can after a ride I cannot stop the corrosion of the alloy in the calipers. This is what was stopping the pads from moving away from the disc when the brake lever was released. I know not everyone will come across this, but for the sake of a little copper grease it is worth checking if riding on roads covered in crap at this time of year

 

[Gonzo]

For us mechanophobes, could someone post a picture/diagram/sentence with few syllables showing exactly where to apply the copper grease? The comedy consequences of me getting this wrong don't bear thinking about...............

Cheers

G

 

[Mouse]

I would apply a thin film of copper grease to the part of the caliper that the brake pads touch. That is to say, the machined flat areas at each end of the "slot" that the brake disc goes into.

Some people would also apply grease to the back of the brake pads, but this is more for anti-squeal purposes than to prevent corrosion.

edit - see attached image. See the four flat bits of metal that the ends of the brake pads touch - that's the bit in question

 

[Yoda]

I didn't know if it's a winter thing but I find I'm getting a bit of a "scraping" type of feel when I brake lightly. As it's noticeable using front or back lever, I have to assume that it's the rear brake (linked brakes etc).

What's the activation cycle of the ABS? Is it a very fast br-r-r-r-r-r-r, or is it more of a k-k-k-klunk? I was just wondering if the rear ABS was activating. If not then I've got some rear brake crap removal to attend to.

 

[Mouse]

The rear ABS is very definitely "clunk-clunk-clunk".

A scraping sensation is probably a bit of rust on your discs or dirt on your pads.

 

[Dave Price]

Why would you wash your bike, then go back on the road to cover it in salt again
Where I live we seem to have constant salted roads for at least 3 months of the year, and even washing the bike when I can after a ride I cannot stop the corrosion of the alloy in the calipers. This is what was stopping the pads from moving away from the disc when the brake lever was released. I know not everyone will come across this, but for the sake of a little copper grease it is worth checking if riding on roads covered in crap at this time of year

I only take it out again if the roads are dry and only on unsalted local roads.

 

[JAY]

I didn't know if it's a winter thing but I find I'm getting a bit of a "scraping" type of feel when I brake lightly. As it's noticeable using front or back lever, I have to assume that it's the rear brake (linked brakes etc).

What's the activation cycle of the ABS? Is it a very fast br-r-r-r-r-r-r, or is it more of a k-k-k-klunk? I was just wondering if the rear ABS was activating. If not then I've got some rear brake crap removal to attend to.

k-k-k-klunk! Next time you come down my drive Rich, try them out hard on the mossy strip - great for testing ABS!!

 

[Yoda]

k-k-k-klunk! Next time you come down my drive Rich, try them out hard on the mossy strip - great for testing ABS!!

Thanks John. I seem to recall getting 2 tonnes of K1100LT rather sideways once on that skid pan.