Brand new GS1200 LC Adv ... won't start

This why i always hook up accessories direct to battery with ignition switched relay. At least you are in control (as opposed to a german software goblin that decides to randomly eat your battery).
 
the OEM bmw batttery is fine.

The OEM battery is 12ah.

That is pathetic........especially on a large capacity bike with an advanced electrical system that has a parasitic draw on it.

The Motobatt direct replacement is MBYZ16H, it will cost less than 60 quid and it's 16ah.



Even that is pretty low powered.....the Motobatt on my 1150 is 22ah.

12 is ridiculously underpowered for the bike.
 
OK got bike back now and the explanation given makes sense but I guess Im not the only person who has done this so surprised Ive not heard more about it.

I left and accessory cable plug into the DIN socket next to dash, although nothing was attached to the cable (i.e. phone) the cable had a voltage regulator in-line. This was enough to keep the can-bus line open and as such one or some of the bikes ECU's didn't go to sleep and this is what drained battery.

If you plug into the DIN and turn ignition off it will delivery 12V. If you turn ignition off and then plug into DIN socket you get nothing.
 
The launch press release included this:

At each exhaust camshaft there is an centrifugal-force-driven decompression facility which facilitates the start-up process. This makes it possible to save weight in the starter motor and battery.

As I understand it, this allows a smaller battery to start the engine, while the charging system meets the needs of the bike when running. If the voltmeter is accurate, my TE is putting out a healthy level of charge even with lights, heated grips and heated jacket all on, even at tickover.
 
Dead battery again this morning.

It was fine on Friday.

The bike is fine.

Battery taken away for checking...
 
My battery failed on my 2014 GSA WC on the evening before I left for a week in Spain! BMW Assist attended and fitted a different larger battery - had to remove the packing piece fitted to the original battery. Since then no problems - dealer tells me that all GSAs are having the bigger battery retrofitted.
 
So the BMW chap came out ... got it started off jump pack then took out for 20min spin before putting battery checker on and all came back as a good battery. I had a accessory cable on the DIN plug but no accessory he thinks that has drained battery must say Im not convinced as if it has nothing connected its just an extension to the DIN plug ... Anyway on the AC BMW the DIN did not work with ignition off i guess the LC one is opposite I need to check. Anyway taking it down to dealer tomorrow they have agreed for new battery as Im off on 4000m trip in just over a week and not having nagging doubts every morning ....


Sorry just realised Ive double posted similar comment .... Im new on here ;)

Your second ride was also 5 minutes longer than your first one! :D
 
The OEM battery is 12ah.

That is pathetic........especially on a large capacity bike with an advanced electrical system that has a parasitic draw on it.

The Motobatt direct replacement is MBYZ16H, it will cost less than 60 quid and it's 16ah.



Even that is pretty low powered.....the Motobatt on my 1150 is 22ah.

12 is ridiculously underpowered for the bike.

Not really, had no issues on either my 2013 LC and 2015 LC - remember that the LC has an auto-decompresser to make starting easier, less stress on the battery and starter motor and less weight. As long as the battery has a low enough internal resistance to provide the surge of current for cranking the motor then all is good.
 
OK got bike back now and the explanation given makes sense but I guess Im not the only person who has done this so surprised Ive not heard more about it.

I left and accessory cable plug into the DIN socket next to dash, although nothing was attached to the cable (i.e. phone) the cable had a voltage regulator in-line. This was enough to keep the can-bus line open and as such one or some of the bikes ECU's didn't go to sleep and this is what drained battery.

If you plug into the DIN and turn ignition off it will delivery 12V. If you turn ignition off and then plug into DIN socket you get nothing.

This is exactly the issue I had a few years ago with my 2010 twin-cam - I posted on here about the problem. It was either the quiescent current of the voltage regulator keeping the socket alive OR the decoupling capacitors on the input side of the regulator 'holding up' the voltage long enough after the bike is turned off to fool the electronics into thinking a charger is plugged in - this then keeps the bike alive at a certain level so that the charging can be monitored.

Once I unplugged the accessory cable (to my Garmin Quest) the problem went away.
 
I had exactly the same with an Autocom BTM02A Bluetooth module that was fed from the accessory socket, the module drew a small amount of current that kept the canbus open, a few days later the battery was flat.
 
I learnt the hard way a few years ago...always carry a set of jump leads for vehicles / bikes without a kick start. I always have them stowed away somewhere. Along with compressor and stopngo plugs too...

No need for thick cables on jump leads like with a car as current draw is significantly less.
 
+1 for jump leads.

Made jump leads myself for my bikes. Always carry a set in top box, together with puncture repair kit which includes compressed air canisters.
 
Oh hum!

12 month service last week, additional lights, ACF 50 and another look at a dead bike!

I think that they are clutching at straws now so have put them on notice to repair or replace.

I really thought that they had sorted it.

They took it away for a week to do everything, brought it home Thursday afternoon and it was completely dead again on Saturday morning.

Glad I didn't sell it now, I'd have felt really guilty passing the problem on to someone else...
 


Back
Top Bottom