Broken bobbins on battery cage (1150 GS Adv)

[MikeO]

Good evening all,

I have just chased down an intermittent short which was causing fuse 6 (fuel pump) to blow. It turns out that the two front rubber bobbins holding the battery cage had failed...

...allowing the cage to move around sufficiently to chafe the main loom below.

I will get on to fixing the chafe next weekend. I have ordered four new bobbins, although the rear ones look pretty new and came out easily by hand.

I think they were probably replaced when I had the custom gearbox fitted a couple of years ago. Since they are only a couple of quid each, and this isn't a job I want to do again, I decided to replace them all.

The problem is that the rubber/metal bonding on the top of the front two has failed and I'm wondering how to get them out. I have tried turning the rubber bobbins by hand with no success. I have sprayed them with PlusGas while I decide how to get them out.

They've probably been in place since the bike was built in 2002 and done 155k mikes, so I reckon they're not going to want to come out. Has anyone had experience of this? Solutions not requiring the use of a time machine preferred...

Mike

 

[Dr Bones]

One of my sump guard bobbins was the same (just metal piece left in sump). I used plenty of penetrating oil and some heat to free it up, then carefully drove a sharp chisel into the edge of it and tapped it round so I had enough space to be able to get a set of mole grips on it to get it out the rest of the way. Once I had the mole grips on it I had to add more penetrating fluid and work the fastener back and forth to get it out.

Mine had spent it's entire life down at the bottom of the bike in the wet and probably salt. Your one might come out easier on top of the gearbox.

When you put the new ones in put some anti seize grease on them. It'll make it easier if you have to take them out again.

Good luck

Just seen your photo, might be worth cleaning that earth point up too, while you can get to it.

 

[Duc750]

I had some success a little while ago by driving a very large power screw driver bit into the offending object and winding it out slowly. Was n't on a gs though but a Ducati!



Sent from my BlackBerry using Tapatalk so excuse the spelling!

 

[Dr Bones]

I just had another thought. If you have access to a MIG welder, you could, put an M8 or M10 nut on the top of the metal part then quickly spot weld the nut to it through the centre. The heat should free it up then you could just unscrew it with a spanner or socket.

Probably best disconnecting your ECU and ABS units before you do this though.

This is all assuming they are seized, they might just come out with a set of mole grips easily!

 

[MikeO]

Thanks for the replies - I've ordered a 10mm left hand drill bit and will have a go at it on Friday...

Mike

 

[Nobby]

Drill a small hole in the middle of base a size that you can hammer a torq's /spine drive bit into plate once you have removed the rest of the rubber heat up with hair dryer/very small blow touch.undo.have done about 6 this way always came.good luck

 

[MikeP]

I've succeeded in similar cases with a good squirt of a proper freeing agent (de-icer will do just as well) and then mole grips on the rubber.

 

[MikeO]

Managed to get the left hand one out by using the chisel and tap out method. The right one is a dead loss and I gave up on it. I have left it with the remains of the stud in place and mounted a rubber bung under that side of the battery box. With the other three bolts done up (all well copperslipped) and the bung in place the battery cage is secure.

I repaired the cables by wrapping them individually in insulating tape (there were three affected), then wrapped it all up in more tape. I also cut out a section of soft plastic chopping board and have put this between the bottom of the battery cage and the loom, so I feel happy this won't happen again.

After a throttle body re-sync, I went for a ride...

Thanks again for the input.

Mike