Broken bolt removal, front mudguard > fork bolt

Indeed, wondering if I should rip them all out and slap new ones in, all copper slipped up.

Actually, anyone reading this who's just bought a F800GS (et al) rip the fender bolts out and slip 'em.

Would there be any advantage of using a different head? Like a regular bolt head rather than torx?
 
This is were you said it.

Cheers Mr Horse, there is actually some exposed thread on the back side of the bolt, do you reckon I could pass another identical bolt through the back and push it through?

Would probably just tighten the situation up a bit more, not sure really.


:nenau
 
Indeed, wondering if I should rip them all out and slap new ones in, all copper slipped up.

Actually, anyone reading this who's just bought a F800GS (et al) rip the fender bolts out and slip 'em.

Would there be any advantage of using a different head? Like a regular bolt head rather than torx?

Not really, as it's not the method of tool purchase which is the problem, but the torque you're applying which is snapping the bolts.

Did you spray on penetrating oil the day before you tried to undo them?

Not sure coppaslip is the right stuff to use, as then you have allow, steel and copper all mixed up in there. Great soup for electrolytic corrosion!
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ILMV
Cheers Mr Horse, there is actually some exposed thread on the back side of the bolt, do you reckon I could pass another identical bolt through the back and push it through?

Would probably just tighten the situation up a bit more, not sure really.

Right, I means exposed female thread on the fork itself, not the thread of the bolt. My idea being I could pass another bolt in to push the stuck one out... not sure sure that idea is any good tbh.
 
I didn't spray them with anything a day before removing them... to be fair after the first incident I took the second one slowly, don't know how I describe how much force I put through the socket but it certainly wasn't enough to make me go flying across the room when it lost resistance.

Can you confirm WD40 is a penetrative oil? I've heard people on t'interweb naming at as one, not sure if this is correct. Also, is spraying it on sufficient, or can I increase the odds by devising a contraption to bath the bolt in it for a while.

Probably sounds like a stupid idea, I'm just trying to think of ways of easing these snapped bolts up so when I come to extracting them I'll have half a chance of getting them out.


Cheers
 
I would recommend Plus Gas rather than WD40.
You would not be able to push one bolt out using another by the way.
 
Right, I means exposed female thread on the fork itself, not the thread of the bolt. My idea being I could pass another bolt in to push the stuck one out... not sure sure that idea is any good tbh.

No worries :thumb
 
I should have added that an impact screwdriver is worth its weight in gold for these stubborn bolts as it gives you downwards/twisting/shock movement that seems to work better than the gradually increasing twisting method with a normal wrench.
 
You can buy specific penetrating oil for the job, but WD40 is ok if you haven't got any. The oil needs to be very very thin so it can creep into the gaps between the metal surfaces.

I got a 12v impact gun from (I think) Screwfix, or was it machine mart? Either way it was dirt cheap and has saved my ass on several occasions. Worth every penny!
 
How get the bolt out

Got the same problem some time ago. Spend some some time trying to drill it out, but finally went to workshop, where the mechanic managed to remove the bolt using the kit which you weld onto the remainings of the bolt and get it out.

I noticed on several F800GS machines I have seen on the road that people have problem with this particular bolt. I believe the reason why the bolts snap is that:
1. There is a groove in them to take the Loctite "glue" by which they are secured. This weakens the whole screw and it snaps.
2. They are secured by Loctite or similar thread lock product.

The Loctite threads can be easier undone by heating the screw before attempting to slacken it. So next time if you heat the bit carefully with heatgun to ca 40-60°C and then slacken, it should help.
 
@vaclove I concur with the groove theory, seemd to have weakend it somewhat.

Guys, I mentioned before the chain tensioner bolt. I have been WD40ing the sh*t out of it the past few days and I've managed to remove it! Woohoo :beer:

I used this parts list website to find what the bolt I need is an M8 70mm, simple.

However, what kind of bolt do I need that will not corrode?
 
Bump...

I've since slapped a really couple of cheapy BZP bolts to replace my old chain tensioner bolts. I'm cautious of them as it seems BZP bolts fixing are only meant for indoor use.

What kind of bolt should I be aiming for for automotive purposes?
 
Bump...

I've since slapped a really couple of cheapy BZP bolts to replace my old chain tensioner bolts. I'm cautious of them as it seems BZP bolts fixing are only meant for indoor use.

What kind of bolt should I be aiming for for automotive purposes?

I don't know how I ended up here and reading your tale of woe anyway, I have used A2 stainless steel fasteners for many applications on many motorcycles for years. I have almost used up a 200 piece tub I bought in the nineties.

You can use them most of the time but be careful when swapping out high tensile bolts because they are much stronger but not stainless.

Additionally you could Recoil some of the places you are having problems with or those threaded holes in Al castings. Doing this to race or trackday bikes saves loads of grief and will help you if you're taking yours out in the mud.
 


Back
Top Bottom