Build quality

  • Thread starter Thread starter andygbsmith
  • Start date Start date
oh no not more rust

just had another look at this thread, how do we get to know Mr M Wheelers secrets on after care for you bike, 50000 and still in showroom cond, mine looks like it has been to hell for a month, all the crap is on top of the wax and oil.should all be ok in april (I HOPE).
 
basil said:
Don,t worry about it ,just ride the bl--dy thing.Wait til end of spring,take it to dealers,to replace,don,t take no shite of hem.When i took mine in,service manager asked ,wat ya been washing it in.I said wat the f--k that to do with it ,get parts ordered. :clap

Failing that you could politely and calmly explain the problem and they'll agree to do the work even before you finish your sentence :thumb
 
Just to add more to the balance, my 2002 Adventure has no, I repeat no rust on it. I've ridden all year round and in all weathers on it, including a three week holiday in the Alps earlier this year, there was plenty of salt down, due to there being snow around (even in June). The roads were also wet and the bike was filthy, when I got back home I couldn't find the time to wash it for over two months.
When I did finally get to wash it, it was extreemly difficult to get clean, but with a bit of elbow grease it came clean, best still it didn't have any rust :D !

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/belgianjohn/75987832/" title="Photo Sharing"><img src="http://static.flickr.com/39/75987832_edbed61a96_b.jpg" width="1024" height="821" alt="my gs" /></a>

And the other side.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/belgianjohn/75988151/" title="Photo Sharing"><img src="http://static.flickr.com/43/75988151_ae169800ee_b.jpg" width="1024" height="883" alt="my gs left side" /></a>
 
skywalker said:
In some cases corrosion issues can be down to ownership.Caustic chemicals etc can have a detremental effect on the various finishes used in manufacture.
IMHO that's spot on. :clap

I never use a car wash of any type because I don't know what sort of chemicals are being pumped through the jet-wash.

I only ever use cold water, a quality non-caustic cleaner and the best bike shampoo I've found so far is the BMW stuff that adds a coat of polish.

Never wash the bike while it's still hot (it only adds to the corrosive effect of salt, same reason why only ever use cold water), never cover it up (or garage it if you're lucky enough to own a garage) until it's dry unless the garage is well ventillated.
 
Why take two bottles into the car wash when you can just wasn and wax.
What a great invention that would be!! :D
 
MikeP said:
IMHO that's spot on. :clap

I never use a car wash of any type because I don't know what sort of chemicals are being pumped through the jet-wash.

I only ever use cold water, a quality non-caustic cleaner and the best bike shampoo I've found so far is the BMW stuff that adds a coat of polish.

Never wash the bike while it's still hot (it only adds to the corrosive effect of salt, same reason why only ever use cold water), never cover it up (or garage it if you're lucky enough to own a garage) until it's dry unless the garage is well ventillated.


So, when you're talking about 'non caustic' cleaners, I'm guessing you mean stuff like 'Muc off' which is bio degradable?
 
had my adv 13 months now, 19000miles on it, all weathers...unfortunately, a 1/4 of a mile was through Benone beach..in the background...you can just see Donegal in the distance...and the collector box, which is no longer fitted suffered quite a bit, but the rest of the bike...very very slight corrosion on things like caliper bolts.

If i have access to a pressure washer...and i mean a very small, not that powerful a one, i use it...if not, brush attachment on a hose. Quick blast with muc-off, blast it off, and then soak, and i mean its normally dripping in it, but i use whatever comes to hand...dubs, gt 85, or fs365. calipers normally get it too....but always gets a blast of degreaser before moving off.

More recently, i have started using Boeshield T9...i have yet to wash it off...and methinks i could be in for a bit of a tough time as it definitely leaves a good old film alll over the bike.

Personally, i prefer the GT 85 to Dubs, and will let you know how the Boeshield goes, but not sure if its the after care treatment the bike gets, or if its good build quality, but the Adv is showing no signs of corrosion...a top machine.
 

Attachments

  • 1.jpg
    1.jpg
    33.9 KB · Views: 746
dirtydog said:
So, when you're talking about 'non caustic' cleaners, I'm guessing you mean stuff like 'Muc off' which is bio degradable?
I did try Muc off once. It's ok but it can leave strange white deposits if it's not thoroughly rinsed off.

The best stuff IMO is BMW wheel cleaner. I've said this before but here goes again;
it's designed to be safe on expensive BMW car wheels, it's not caustic like an alli cleaner (it's more a detergent than an acid). I use it on everything except tank, beak etc. but it is safe on those areas too.

The wheel brush set is expensive, the cleaner comes in 4 litre refills and costs less than Muc-off. The wheel brush set lasts forever but a set of B&Q soft paintbrushes are just as good for a bike. If you want someting that you just spray-on then rinse off you'll be disappointed, you do need to at least agitate the dirt, salt and brake dust before it will rinse away.

Looking for some support from Clive here, I don't know if he recalls it but he once asked me how I kept the calipers so clean. It's the wheel BMW cleaner! Just hose the bike down, spray it on, work a little with a brush and rinse off. (I only do one area at a time, moving on and repeating the process).

The basis though has to be polish. Early winter and in the Spring I polish the whole bike and I mean the whole bike, wheels, spokes, hubs, engine covers, engine bars, swing-arm, gearbox, panniers, frames etc. etc.

I've tried all sorts of polishes over the years, the best are Zymol cleaner wax (great on soft paints and perspex) Mer (great on all types of surface but doesn't last) and BMW liquid polish (again great on all surfaces including glass by the way, lasts well and doesn't turn black plastic grey). The last two can be applied when the bike is still wet so no chamois-ing and doesn't drag or streak if the surface isn't dry.

Mer can be added to the water used for washing the bike/car. When it dries it leaves a film of polish that you just buff off (good on UPC windows and frames too!) The BMW shampoo stuff that I mentioned before does the same but doesn't need to be buffed off after, it's a good addition to the existing polish but I wouldn't rely on it alone for protection. Oh and you need to use quite a lot for the best effect.

Why use so many BMW products? How many times have you bought something and read the instruction "test on a small area first?" The stuff BMW sell for their products is tested on them. They don't need to warn you that it might do any harm because it won't. You may also be surprised to find that most of their stuff is actually cheaper than the equivalent stuff from Halfrauds etc.

None of the above will repair any corrosion but none of the bikes I've owned have suffered in the way others describe. It's not a huge investment in time or effort and it's always repaid me when it comes to selling or p-exing. The other plus is that you notice anything damaged, broken or failing sooner than you would if you cover it with 'Mother's recipe' and leave it for months!

Sh*t high.........
43463818-M.jpg

Clean.....
44327104-M.jpg
 
Clean.....
44327104-M.jpg
[/QUOTE]

Mike, I notice you have painted the bottom section of your forks. Is that because the paint blistered and fell off, like it did on mine? If so, what did you re-paint them with, please?

The engine paint is bubbling on my bike. I am really upset about it but the dealer refuses to do anything (bike is just over 3 years old). I had the barrels and heads replaced due to corrosion at 18 months!

Really very poor indeed...

GJ
 
I re-sprayed them principally because there were some stone chips, secondly because I think they look better on a black bike.

I used smooth Hammerite. When it chips (as it will no doubt) I can be sure of easy touch-up match.
 
Preserving a coating such as the silver finish on the engine is quite difficult when you're coating aluminium,given that the items tend to be coated then machined up thus the machined edges are not sealed sufficently.
A destructive environment doesn't help much either - since aluminium "sweats" & tries to return to an oxide given the tempretures it has to endure.
Since water based etching primers are used in manufacture they appear to pentrate the alloy a lot less than the previously toxic cynanide based products.
I would suggest that a hard wax polish such as turtle wax (not cream type) be worked int the jointing areas to try & build up a protective barrier, as well as use of wd40 etc.
Fork leg areas are always going to cop it from stone chipping & i would suggest the use of clear sticky back plastic film as a measure to try & stop any damage to the painted finish. Unfortunately damage due to stone chips are not covered by the warranty.I think the same criteria applys to cars as well.
There is no magic way to clean your bike correctly other than elbow grease & time & if you could harness them into a marketable product you'd be a millionaire.
Don't be content with a bucket of soapy water & a hose pipe and think that will do. Put some time & effort in & you should be ok!
Here endeth the lesson
 
Hello

Skywalker: the thing is, many other makes of bike tend not to corrode to the same extent. I agree with all your comments in general about aluminum and someone elses cellulose versus two pack paints.

But at the end of the day, if i can leave my all-aluminum Honda out in the rain for 8 years, washing the thing maybe once every few months and it hasnt corroded at all, then, given the same laws of chemistry and physics govern corrosion on my BM and my Honda, that the BM is kept clean, dry, polished and oiled and BM has corrosion and paint flaking after 5 months of ownership, then the conclusion really has to be that the BM finish quality sucks.

I now use ACF50, wash the bike down with cold water after every run, and do a whole stack of other things. But until I bought my BM, I'd never even heard of ACF50 :)

jon
 
I agree entirely with cookiemonster. My 7-year-old Bandit 600 didn't suffer half as much corrosion as my 3-year-old GS has. And that was after it had covered 42,000 miles in all weathers and been left out in the rain (like the GS).

There is no doubt that that the standard of finish is worse on the GS. To explain it in terms of the nature of the environmentally friendly coatings may be correct, but that makes it no more acceptable.

Take a look around any BMW dealer and you will see that most used bikes have some corrosion. Also, most bikes exhibit crazing of the paint finish on the engine casings and shaft casing. If I knew then what I know now I would not have bought the bike.

That said, I love it to bits and must learn to put up with the crap finish and enjoy riding it!

GJ
 
I take the point that an owners cleaning schedule can determine how much the bike suffers from corrosion and have been impressed with the condition of some of the bikes shown in the piccies and have to confess I am not one to clean my bike regularly so am partly guilty.

That said when I started riding BM's were renowned for the build quality, it was one of their selling points and always commented on in road test reports. The older bikes still seem to hold up well in contrast to GS 1150's and later which seem to rot.

I have looked at many GS's of a similiar age to mine and have seen many bikes with all the usual tell tale signs of corrsosion so it is not just down to owners, furthermore as already stated many of us have had other bikes which have been subjected to the same cleaning (or lack of it) routine and they have not suffered.

This is a great pity as the bike is so good, BM have spent years building a reputation for build quality only to throw it away, reading the GS1200 forum it would appear that things have not improved.

Shame

:(
 
BMW THE NEW DUCATI

Hi

I have not been a BM owner very long however during my search for a bike I have been to many show rooms and really do have to say that the condition of a lot of the used models reminded me of Ducati of the 1970 era.
This did surprise me because my mental image of the BMW brand was of impeccable finish and build quality, well I know that the finish is certainly not what it was 20 years ago just hope that the build quality has not slipped that much as well.
Incidently I am now the new owner of a GS1100 with low miles that has never seen a winter road, I also have a 12 year old ZZR1100 with 65.000 miles on the clock that is used all year round and has on rust worth speaking about. Hope to see of you at some GS events next year.
 
Just to update everyone,
I went to the dealer and showed them the rust only to be told that it was caused by the salt on the roads at this time of year(NO SHIT).
Apparently if you wash the bike off after every ride you wont have a problem.
The problems I have are 60/70% of the spoke at the point they screw in to the nipple have started to rust and yes I know they are S/Steel and the fuel tank along the front edge between the seam joint is rusting very nicely, apparently I am only noticeing the rust because the tank is white.
The dealer will ask BMW if they will undertake this work under warrenty.
My point is if I had just bought a new car from BMW and found my big shinney wheels corroding do you think they would tell me to wash them off after every drive or would they just FIX THE PROBLEM.

I use WD40 and buy it in a 5ltr can and use a cheap pump spray bottle it works out about 15 pounds a can :thumb
 
well,the adv got a run through the back roads from brissol airport today, through all the salt and manure...had a healthy coating of both...

the Boeshield leaves such a think, sticky film, that it looks like the all the crap was just sitting on top of it. as i aint 100% convinced that the salt wont eventually work its way through it, it gave it a wash...but the Boehield would not shift..1 litre of HG's version of muc off, brush, pressure washer etc etc and its still on there.

only problem was that all the crao got stuck to it, so bike still looks filthy...but if it stops anything getting through it, then it's staying on there.

the technical data says to use Aliphatic Naptha, Cleaning Solvent to remove it....unless thats a tech term for soapy water, then it aint going near the adv...

i also have to add that the only other bikes i ever had were a guzzi v11 lemans and a california...so the very little corrosion i have on the adv is so much less than i had on the guzzis :D
 
Your bike should be gleaming the amount of time it spends under that cover next to Daves Ducati/Gixxer/F4. :D :D :D Glad you coated it in Boeshield to stop it getting infected !!!
 


Back
Top Bottom