Bulgaria - Third Time Lucky

[grez]

Well today was interesting. Turns out the hotel Bobycentrum in Brno has only been open 1 month hence not really working. Breakfast was ok and the sun was shining so loaded the bike and after a bit of a struggle she started, she is getting more reluctant each morning. So navigated the suicidal traffic and onto the open road heading for Budapest. Cloud rolled in but no rain just surface water. Good news no vingnette needed for Czech Republic or Slovakia but needed one for Hungary 6.50 Euros. Sat nav decided not to charge on the bike and got the low battery message so turned it off and navigated by nose. Pulled off to a service station to try to fix it and ended in a nose to nose argument with a windscreen cleaner who eventually buggered off. No luck so turned Sat nav on in Budapest to get to the hotel where it expired outside the front door. So now need to fix the charging problem. On the plus side the sun is out, the hotel has a happy hour, fixed the computer so I have wifi and not fallen off yet. On the negative side the computer deleted all my mapping data and now refuses to talk to the Sat nav.
Tomorrow a wander round Budapest, see if I can cure the Sat nav charging problem and contemplate my next move.

 

[grez]

Ever the optimist I decided to forego trying to fix the bike and drink beer instead. Drank beer, went for a walk, drank more beer, ate steak, drank beer and schnapes.
Hotel full tomorrow so moving to hotel next door and booked one in Sibiu for Wednesday night.

The adventure continues, plan now to drink more beer to sleep through sound of the trams (suppose I could try earplugs but where's the fun in that?)

PS Charging sat nav via computer takes bloody ages

 

[Deleted account Cooperman]

Enjoy the sun and recharge your batteries first

 

[grez]

Well the wire from the battery to the sat nav is fine and every now and then over a bump it goes onto main power. Will just have to remember to turn it on just before a turn and buy a map. Walked the hangover off through the day, Budapest is a big city.

Next stop Sibiu, Romania.

 

[David Nimrod]

Fantastic, I wish I was riding East too...

 

[Timolgra]

Bugger, you have put your price up then.

Ha ha good one Grez

Have a good one!!

 

[grez]

Well the trip continues. Having been invited to go to Serbia I headed off to Belgrade where L drank far too much Rakija (the stuff is lethal) I finally managed a trip into the city following the route I was shown, it's an interesting place. As you can see bomb damaged building still remain opposite ornate fully intact ones. View from the citadel is magnificent. I left the following morning for Sibiu, Romania having been very very well looked after.

 

[grez]

Despite the best efforts of Garmin I made it to Sibiu. Route kept trying to send me up a road for 10 km only to be told to do a U-turn and turn in 10 km. Eventually rolled into my hotel which was quite pleasant although checking out took time and a German guy was complaining about everything. View from the hotel was nice but due to an “interesting” route I arrived too late to see the town and needed to be up early for the Transfagarasan Pass and the run to Veliko Tarnovo in Bulgaria. (I am getting closer to the Black Sea, something has to go wrong).

The ride up and down the pass was great. Made more interesting by the sudden changes in road surface from smooth tarmac to patched and potholed, usually mid-bend. Also a load of lunatics running up the pass ! There are a number of little shrines on the side of the road, I assume in memory of those killed in recent conflicts in the region. Sometimes we forget how easy we really have life in the UK.

 

[David Nimrod]

Excellent - keep on keeping on

 

[grez]

Well I made it to the bottom of the pass and headed for the border. Crossed the Danube into Bulgaria at 4:42 local time 20th September 2014. Got past passport control 20 mins later having been directed to 2 different queues and then asked why I was queuing. Got sent to a garage for a vignette and got told I didn’t need one so onwards to Veliko Turnova where Agent2494 had kindly offered me a bed at his place. Met the couple who had the keys in town, very nice people, and headed for the house…..it’s fantastic. Had a bite to eat, the guys had got me some milk, bread and cheese which was very kind of them and then off to bed. So much closer to the Black Sea, what could possible go wrong now……….fate suitably tempted.

 

[grez]

Woke the next day to rain. Bugger, might as well go to Varna as tomorrow might be worse (it wasn’t, a lovely sunny day). Set off for the three hour or so ride and the roads in the wet are…..interesting. As the ride progressed the sun came out, I sped up and got a tug off the local police. He walked round the bike, clocked the number plate and did the guy driving a BMW behind me, dismissing me with a wave of the hand. Finally got to Varna, could almost touch the Black Sea but not yet. Stopped off to see the famous church (am writing this after several beers in a bar so no, I don’t know what it is called).
Next stop a ride to the coast and hey presto, the Black Sea (it’s blue by the way). Stopped for a spot of lunch at the pirate ship restaurant (bloody tourist) before riding along the coast and stopping to walk down to the water and get wet fingers. Road onto a jetty covered with sand to get a decent photo. A GS on worn Tourance two’s is not the best on sand. Applied all the lessons learnt from Skygod’s trips to Morocco, stand up, weight back, open throttle and glided masterfully over the sand. I think the locals were complimenting my riding skill but it might well have been Bulgarian for dickhead.
Still, objective achieved I headed back to base for dinner followed by a 20 km ride in the dark back to the house. I never knew I could clench my arse so tight, I am never riding Bulgarian roads after dark again.

 

[David Nimrod]

Mission accomplished

 

[Timolgra]

Agent2494 had kindly offered me a bed at his place.

Did Agent2494 take advantage of you?

 

[grez]

Woke to a glorious sunny day and after I had finally stirred and drunk a lot of coffee I went into town. Chose a day when there was some political event/celebration and various streets were closed. Had an interesting ride around town down the old cobbled streets (off camber cobbles on steep hills hold no fear for seasoned off road gods..er dogs). Saw the memorial to the 800 year old rebellion against the Byzantine rule and the citadel on the hill before getting a bite to eat before heading back early (remember Bulgarian roads at night) ready for an early start the next day back to Belgrade where my earlier host had kindly offered me another nights accommodation.
Up early, bike packed, house locked and checked and checked and checked and checked (I blame my mom for the obsessive checking), suited and booted I pressed the starter button………nothing doing. Bugger it’s Albania all over again, get as far from home as possible and the bike breaks down. Tried again to a nice ineffectual whirring sound before offering a pray to the biking gods. Just as the battery was about to give out I was treated to the sound of a barrel of bolts rolling down a cobbled street and she fired up. Kept her running as I locked the gate (multiple checking again) and headed for petrol, to drop of the keys with the couple who met me before and head to Sofia.
Many thanks to Agent2494, his offer of accommodation was very generous and most welcome…I defiantly owe you one
Was treated to a few hours of howling winds, horizontal rain and freezing cold to Sofia. Spent the last of my Bulgarian money on fuel, coffee and chocolate and head down headed onwards to eventually make Serbia and Belgrade where I went out to dinner with my host, had a fantastic meal and home to bed, next task to fix the bike but that is for tomorrow.

 

[grez]

Still smiling from the previous night’s meal my host set about fixing my bike. Whipped off the starter and dismantled it to discover the shaft wasn't throwing the starter gear forward under power (those with mechanical knowledge will know what I mean, for the rest it was buggered). A quick strip down and application of miracle fluid (WD40) and reassembled the starter was put back and she fired up first time. Been perfect since. Then went for a ride to see the local sights and learn some Serbian history. Met up with a few of my hosts riding buddies along the way and listened to stories about Serbia in the 90's and Kosovo, was an eye opener and very interesting. The guys I met were fantastic and it was a real privilege to get to know a little about them and their lives.
The next day it was with a heavy heart I left Serbia. Sun was shining until I got to Croatia where it rained cats and dogs. God that road is boring. Made it into Slovenia and the sun came out again and then into Austria to stay at an outdoor activity type hotel. A little out of the way but had food, room was clean and comfortable and a great shower. Four countries in a day, not bad for a measly 600 km. Now it’s just get home.

 

[David Nimrod]

I really want to return to Serbia...

Take it easy on the way home

 

[grez]

A few photos from my ride before leaving Serbia. A jet fighter outside your factory......because you can.

A master craftsman hand making knives, the skill level is incredible.

The communications mast knocked out by the Americans during the Kosovo conflict. They also destroyed the bridges over the river, including the one carrying power and water to the biggest hospital.

Funny, Serbian separatists form a new state within Serbia and the Americans and the world supports them and bombs Serbia. Now Ukrainian separatists want to form a new separate state in the Ukraine, Russia bombs the Ukraine and the world is up in arms………I fail to see the distinction.

Politics and religion, a pox on both their houses.

 

[grez]

Well I left Austria in the morning and headed into Germany. Had some distance to cover so headed down the autobahn and played with crazy German drivers. They drive fast but they can’t drive, they are just as bad as Bulgarians. So after a few hours and some 625 odd kms I was in Rothenburg ob der Tauber. Had a quick look around and met some Americans who had 1200 GS’s at home and kept two 1150’s and an 1100 in Germany for when they are over here…..what a life.
Found the hotel and had beer and food ready for a look around the town in the morning and the hop to the Hook of Holland. It’s a nice place (see pics).
Couple of hours looking around and a blast to the port where I bumped into a guy on a Moto Guzzi California heading back from Istanbul and a couple of GS riders plus a few more. Good crossing and nice day for the ride home…………..made it.

 

[grez]

Well the trip is over and what did I learn over 4,748 miles and 11 countries in 16 days.

There are some really great guys on the UKGSer site. Many thanks to Agent 2494 and my host in Serbia for the accommodation, welcome and help fixing the bike, the trip would have had a different outcome without them.

A Sargent seat is comfortable but eventually your arse will hurt.

A GS is ok to travel on, can get over 55 mpg but still can’t keep up with a well ridden Harley….I tried.

The Black Sea is blue (well what did you really expect?).

Tourance Two tyres last well, this trip and some 2,500 miles from last year and still lots of tread left…..although a little squared off.

Taxi drivers are exactly the same everywhere in the world………d#*kheads.

My Klim suit is totally waterproof even in the most torrential rain, as are my Forma Adventure boots.

Despite being glad to be back home, I want to be back on my bike.

Well that was the trip, it had up’s and down’s, fantastic roads and boring autobahns, bike problems, generous people and great nights out………….here’s to the next one.

 

[SkyGod]

NIce work Grez