Cam chain guides, cams, bearings and anything else that can go clunk!

bimmerboxer

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I love my 01 Single Spark R1150GS. Even had an early model r12 but the 1150 gets my vote. I even wash it....with shampoo. Urg!!! I do intend to keep it for many more years.

This forum has been an invaluable resource for keeping my bike 'fit'. Hoping to tap it further, here goes.

So far...
ABS sorted (finally through a rebuild)
LHS cam tensioner upgrade
Timing chain, rails and tensioner replaced ( tensioner housing was cracked, causing rattling and poor oil cooling. I know this because the bike did not overheat as much after)
HES replaced
Y pipes and CCP removed, 5 & 6 short in the CCP socket.

A couple of days ago, after some routine work, having the tank lifted, started the engine and the rpm went sky rocket due to a accelerator cable getting stuck somewhere. Not the first time. Cables back to normal and rode off.

Now there was a weird sound from the right cylinder. Not a tappetty clunky kind of sound but a deeper clonk, enough to worry me tremendously.
Started it again the next morning (cold) and it sounded fine until it warmed up.

Found the chain guides broken off on the right side. Likely due to the engine operating at higher than normal temperatures and the recent strained start.

Now, I certainly am going to replace the guides but I wish to split the engine and do a proper job, attending the other likely worn parts after 100,000km.

Kindly advise what you would recommend. (bearings, chians, cam followers, rods etc etc). Cost is an issue but not as my intention to keep the bike for years to come. Thanks in advance. Oh.....btw I'm in Indonesia, just south of the equator.
 
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Rebuild

That sounds ridiculous we are talking KPH not miles and if we were it wouldent require all that work!, these things go on forever and how the cam chain tension caused over heating I can't fathom. So, stick to washing it and riding it and take it to your dealer for servicing. The throttle cable problem is very common and we've all done that and nothing has ever gone amiss afterwards. My 2001 1150 has done 87,000 MILES over some very tough terrain and has had a couple of serious prangs but the engine / gearbox has never given a moments trouble (apart from the ABS which I removed.).
 
Thanks for your prompt reply.

First, it's the timing chain, guides and tensioner that was replaced, you know, the one that sits behind the crank pulley to the alternator and likely runs the oil pump. Duhhhh!

Secondly, there is NO dealer here! Why else would one appreciate such a forum and the wealth of sharing information to genuine users.

Quite obviously, one down. Thanks anyway.
 
So because your bike is OK at 87,000 miles the OP’s bike doesn’t require any attention – WTF?

You don’t necessarily need to split the cases to replace the cam chain guides – you can cut a notch in the new guide and snap it into place without splitting the block. Steptoe has a thread somewhere that details how it’s done. My 80,000+ miles 1150 was making a dreadful selection of noises that progressively got worse over the last 12 months. The issue was eventually traced to a snapped cam chain guide but more importantly to a worn crank. I acquired a used short block and had the bike rebuilt around this.

Probably worth getting the heads, barrels and pistons out and investigating further before you commit to completely stripping the bike.
 
these things go on forever and how the cam chain tension caused over heating I can't fathom.

Eh?!
Where did he say that?

Just because he can't match you legendary mileage and reliability it doesn't mean that his hasn't broken :rolleyes
 
Eh?!
Where did he say that?

In his op.:D

There are two oil pumps, one for cooling and one for engine operation. So to my mind Dave GS is right, it don't make sense.
 
Eh?!
Where did he say that?

In his op.:D

.

No he didn't - he said that he thought the cam chain guide might have broken due to high temperatures and a 'strained start' - Dave appears to have it arse about face...
 
Absolutely, anyway I can never be sure when the guides gave way, all at once or partially. And as for the cooling properties, let's just say that I have been in many a jam with engine temps at high.

Keeping in mind, parts are not easily available for me and I would like to do 'preventive maintenance' as well by replacing some other key parts. It's frustrating to realize I am missing a seal or gasket when the nearest dealer is an hour and a half flight away, and that's if it is in stock.

My list so far is
Cam chain guides
RHS tensioner
Cam Chain
L & R gasket

Feel free to add......
 
Absolutely, anyway I can never be sure when the guides gave way, all at once or partially. And as for the cooling properties, let's just say that I have been in many a jam with engine temps at high.

Keeping in mind, parts are not easily available for me and I would like to do 'preventive maintenance' as well by replacing some other key parts. It's frustrating to realize I am missing a seal or gasket when the nearest dealer is an hour and a half flight away, and that's if it is in stock.

My list so far is
Cam chain guides
RHS tensioner
Cam Chain
L & R gasket

Feel free to add......

i had a very simular noise quickly got shot of it bought a honda in stead no more shredding nerves every time you touch the starter no more wasting time on parts and time wasted looking for poor manufacturing problems i,m soooooo glad to be rid of my 1150 gs never ever again a BMW just too much trouble look around you look at all the issues good luck matey you'll need it
 
i had a very simular noise quickly got shot of it bought a honda in stead no more shredding nerves every time you touch the starter no more wasting time on parts and time wasted looking for poor manufacturing problems i,m soooooo glad to be rid of my 1150 gs never ever again a BMW just too much trouble look around you look at all the issues good luck matey you'll need it

Bollocks.

It's a machine. Machines occasionally break (especially when misstreated) and need routine maintenance. Let's see how your Honda is looking at 100k.

Shredding nerves?! Get a life fer christs sake...
 
Bollocks.

It's a machine. Machines occasionally break (especially when misstreated) and need routine maintenance. Let's see how your Honda is looking at 100k.

Shredding nerves?! Get a life fer christs sake...

ive got a very nice life thank you touched a nerve have we ????
 
ive got a very nice life thank you touched a nerve have we ????

Nice thing about Hondas is the extensive range of shell suits available to match their owners impeccable style and good taste.
 

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Im new to BMW and dont yet even own one. However I have always done my own bike maintenance and currently run a 73.000 mile Yamaha Diversion 900. Its had most things done though (apart from valve shims) the engine and transmission are untouched.

I think the advice to remove the cylinders makes good sense as access is good on a boxer. If there are signs of more serious trouble inside the engine cases you can then strip the bike further to open the engine. I would start "simple" with the cylinders then expand the project if necessary.

Advantage (1) You do only the work necessary
Advantage (2) If more work is needed the engine is easier to remove and the cylinders removal work isnt wasted.

One caveat - If the sump cannot be removed there is a risk of debris causing damage deep into the engine. When the cylinders are removed a cheap fibre-optic camera would be useful to search for debris within the engine case.

In terms of engine wear 80,000K is only 50,000 miles. A UK bike at that distance would be fine. However we dont have the engine stressing high summer temperatures though we do suffer salt corrosion to the chassis parts.
 
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-vyZATVkrAbU/UJDWOfGH_MI/AAAAAAAAAIM/H8ds76XOIM8/s128/IMG_0317.JPG
Still some debris

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-eIhVojTVmVQ/UJDVaX-VTqI/AAAAAAAAAH4/xV4Jw2uNRf4/s128/IMG_0329.JPG
Result of poor quality fuel in remote areas.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-rs_Gdum8HFw/UJDVQ6br62I/AAAAAAAAAHw/HDWFZe7QBKE/s576/IMG_0313.JPG
Time for a Clutch master cylinder replacement

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-3L8HRDI_o3I/UJDWYtBR0RI/AAAAAAAAAIU/nM_BIZLFhiQ/s576/IMG_0342.JPG
New Guides

On further checking, an inlet valve is bent. Doesn't sit well and would not rotate/turn in place. Did some porting and would need new valves and stem seals.

Going to replace the Oil Heat Sensor and Clutch Plate as well.

Will repaint the Transmission Case, Cylinder Heads, Shaft and Final Drive Housings as well as the Battery Holder.
 
Better Pics

IMG_0305_zps20ab4aef.jpg


I had a single Cam Chain Guide intact and it was very brittle.
Long running in such a condition may have cause the inlet valve stem to bend.
 


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