CAN-BUS connector.....how much !

Flipper_Man

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http://www.nippynormans.com/Hard-wi...ith-Can-Bus-wiring/productinfo/STB-CANBUSKIT/

£20 + P&P ?!?!?

This is BMW part no 366.275.963.658 anyone got an idea of what they are at the dealer ? (Sunday so local one not open) ?

I did buy one of these from NN 3yrs ago or so and its failed so need a replacement (Magnum horn replaced twice also but thats another story...)

I can't believe I'd have paid £20 for a connector a coupla bits of wire (which are incredibly thin...).

So I'm thinking of going direct to dealer and getting the socket myself - surely it can't be £20 from a BMW dealer.....

Anyhoo - if anyone has bought this socket form a dealer lately - appreciate knowing what kind of money you paid for it.

Cheers.
 
...or just cut the wires and connect direct to the horn via some bullet connectors.
 
I think i paid about £8 when i got one for my zumo, not sure about the canbus one tho.
 
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...or just cut the wires and connect direct to the horn via some bullet connectors.

Looked at doing that.......after I'd seen the £20 connector at NN........but it's really quite tight in there for space and getting the connectors on and sealed seems like its going to be a ball-ache.

Having said that, it looks like water had got into the connector anyway as there was a little corrosion in there.

How the hell do these bikes stand up to proper off road stuff if they can't cope with a British winter or two ?:rob
 
Leave the canbus connector in place. I recently added an extra stebel horn and scotch block'd into the two wires and taped the conection up. Now have both horns working although had originally planned to just the stebel until I tried connecting the old one too and found that both seemed happy. It's not a pretty sound, but is loud.
 
Just commenting on the previous posts about how tight it is to add connectors, it is. When I worked on mine, I cut the horn wire cable tie passed the canbus connector behind and up over the frame, used the scotch blocks sealed them and then passed all wires back around and down again(you will know what I mean if you are doing this). Putting on the scotch blocks only needs pliars so is relatively easy. It is all fiddly, but not difficult. It leaves me the option of reinstating the the original horn only.
 
I think i paid about £8 when i got one for my zumo, not sure about the canbus one tho.


I used NN canbus connector to switch relay and took a direct fused supply from battery to power twin horns from Halfords. !8 quid with relay. Great sound, car drivers think its a car!
 
Looked at doing that.......after I'd seen the £20 connector at NN........but it's really quite tight in there for space and getting the connectors on and sealed seems like its going to be a ball-ache.

Having said that, it looks like water had got into the connector anyway as there was a little corrosion in there.

How the hell do these bikes stand up to proper off road stuff if they can't cope with a British winter or two ?:rob
I've done it on both of my 1200's. Access isn't that difficult. Cut off the old connector, crimp on a bullet connector, then add some solder to the crimp as the vibes can make them fail. Add bullet connectors to the horn and job done. Cost = few pence.
 
If you are adding to an existing set-up forget Scotch Blocks or similar crimp on connectors. Use these

http://www.posi-lock.com/

No tools required at all so they can be used in really tight spaces and they make a much neater job than scotch blocks. Also as they just pierce a hole in the existing cable rather than cut right around the insulation they can be removed and the existing cable sealed by smearing a little silicon seal over the hole.

I have used their in-line connectors and spade fuse blocks as well and the quality is very good.
 
Just commenting on the previous posts about how tight it is to add connectors, it is. When I worked on mine, I cut the horn wire cable tie passed the canbus connector behind and up over the frame, used the scotch blocks sealed them and then passed all wires back around and down again(you will know what I mean if you are doing this). Putting on the scotch blocks only needs pliars so is relatively easy. It is all fiddly, but not difficult. It leaves me the option of reinstating the the original horn only.

Hmm...I've got some scotch blocks......could well be a Bank Holiday 'tinkering' exercise.......best allow 5hrs for this then - going on my previous mechanical/electrical experience..
 
If you are adding to an existing set-up forget Scotch Blocks or similar crimp on connectors. Use these

http://www.posi-lock.com/

No tools required at all so they can be used in really tight spaces and they make a much neater job than scotch blocks. Also as they just pierce a hole in the existing cable rather than cut right around the insulation they can be removed and the existing cable sealed by smearing a little silicon seal over the hole.

I have used their in-line connectors and spade fuse blocks as well and the quality is very good.

I could do with a couple of these Posi-taps... hunting round the top google results it seems no-one has them in stock in the UK! Anyone know of reliable UK suppliers for these Posi products, that actually hold stock?
 
Hmm...I've got some scotch blocks......could well be a Bank Holiday 'tinkering' exercise.......best allow 5hrs for this then - going on my previous mechanical/electrical experience..

Hey hey - only 20mins and looks the dog's danglies. Naturally I can now add electrical engineer to my list of imaginary qualifications........
 
This is BMW part no 366.275.963.658 anyone got an idea of what they are at the dealer ? (Sunday so local one not open) ?[...] if anyone has bought this socket form a dealer lately - appreciate knowing what kind of money you paid for it.

I bought one about 18 months ago, cost about 10 or 11 quid from South London Motorrad.

NN's cost about £16 at the time. The price hike could be a function of the weak pound.

Achim
 


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