Can-bus+Gerbing Heated Jacket=

Martyn B

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:tears

A long story cut short but a word of caution (probably also documented in other threads:blast) about the Can-bus Accesory sockets not liking the draw from certain heated clothing - in my case a Gerbing Jacket.

I've used Gerbing socks without a problem on my GSA so when I bought the jacket and it wouldn't work, I sent it back thinking there was a short in the clothing. Between the distributors (Draggin Jeans) and Riders of Bristol, they managed to draw this out to a 3 month saga but when I got the replacement back yesterday, it still didn't want to function.

I rapidly came to the conclusion that it must be a Can-bus issue and wired it direct into the battery (yes, I know you're not supposed to do it...) and everything seems fine. The socks draw 2,2,A/27W (OK) but the jacket draws 6,5A/77W (NFG).

Had I looked on the site and done a search back in April when I ordered the bloody thing, then I might have saved everyone a lot of trouble and I wouldn't be piddling about with a heated jacket on the hottest day of the year - or thereabouts!:augie

There, I feel better now.:bounce1

Martyn
 
Jacket, tyre pump, voltage inverter (for powering the computer or charging batteries)... all these things will cause the voltage protection system to kick out...

Wiring the Gerbing directly to the battery is fine as long as you have a fuse in the harness... No chance of leaving it on and killing your battery...

But for the other things, I suggest you look into having a relay controlled fuse panel installed...

Al...
 
Wise words...

as long as you have a fuse in the harness... No chance of leaving it on and killing your battery...

Al...

and there is one in the harness which comes with it. Shame I bought the BMW/Hella plug connector though :blast

Martyn
 
Ive had a Gerbing heated Jacket, and very occasionally heated trousers, wired directly to the battery for the last 2 years with out any problems on my 1200. I do have the duel controller in line as well though. (otherwise it would be a bit too hot). It is even working ok with the original battery now done 36000miles.
 
That's good to know....

Ive had a Gerbing heated Jacket, and very occasionally heated trousers, wired directly to the battery for the last 2 years with out any problems on my 1200. I do have the duel controller in line as well though. (otherwise it would be a bit too hot). It is even working ok with the original battery now done 36000miles.

Thanks Jinxit! Yup, I'm going to be using the dual controller as well. The socks got too hot on a few occasions and I don't see the jacket being any different - so I went for broke and "invested" in one.

Martyn:thumb
 
GPS-wired directly to battery with in-line fuse; Optimate-wired directly to battery with in-line fuse; Mobile phone/PDA-someone else's bike while their parked up:augie

1200GSA power socket?........ its a bit pants and I can't be bothered with it:mcgun
Jim
 
The power sockets have a combined limit of 5A. More than that and the system detects a threat to integrity and shuts down the power to that outlet.

Better that than a fried wiring circuit or toasted bike. It's in the manual boss ;)
 
The power sockets have a combined limit of 5A. More than that and the system detects a threat to integrity and shuts down the power to that outlet.

Better that than a fried wiring circuit or toasted bike. It's in the manual boss ;)

Not a defense I'm afraid.... Fused systems can have a limit if 5A too... but they usually allow you to exceed that by a fair amount for a microsecond or so.... Which happens whenever you put an inductive load on... Motor, Heater controller, power supply....

Either due to bad judgment, or limitations of their new silicon system... the BMW thing kicks out at a funny thought....

It really is unusable IMHO as it is... Everything that I would plug into it kicks it off... And none of these things draws 5A continuously... I have 5A fuses in my relay panel that I installed to run these same things that the accessory socket won't... Never blown a fuse...

I do use it to close the relay though... =)

Al...
 
CanBus. Too clever for it's own good?

Having gone to the trouble of sourcing the power socket and making up the power lead to run my Zumo from the headstock CanBus power outlet I've finally run out of patience. :spitfire

After "triping" constantly all weekend I admitted defeat this afternoon, cut the lead up, and remade to standard to power the thing from the battery.

I never had a problem powering my Klan heated fleece from the under seat socket though! :nenau
 
cam -bus system.

it took me some time but have sorted everything ,i didn't bother with the adaptor for the headstock and added another socket by the instrument cluster and also one on the right hand side built into the side panels i fitted so then the wiring bit ,take a signal supply off the original power supply socket and use that to trigger the relay i fitted and fit three fuses (blade type ,yhe ones you can get from maplins) and run a feed from the battery .
one fuse for the sat-nav,one 4 the new power supply on the head-stock area then one for the new power supply on the panel ,that one is not controlled by the relay which is ideal for you to use as a chargin socket 4 my optimate ,theres an extra fuse between the relay and the battery just in case of a short .
it all works quite well just took some time to fit the relay and wiring in the little compartment under the seat .:)
 


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