Can I have a great big slice of that humble pie please ?

Images from my 2009, not had a look in here before. Decent condition , zero corrosion.

Similar condition to my 2005. Both get/got used in all weathers but I must admit, never did the river crossings seen on some of the more impressive vlogs.
 

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Reassuring Popell isn't it.
I guess that as Im having the whole lots changed it will be covered in grease both ends. Which should have been done at the factory.
 
Onahi said:
Reassuring Popell isn't it.
I guess that as Im having the whole lots changed it will be covered in grease both ends. Which should have been done at the factory.
Click to expand...

or maybe not, you should check yourself
 
Onahi said:
Reassuring Popell isn't it.
I guess that as Im having the whole lots changed it will be covered in grease both ends. Which should have been done at the factory.
Click to expand...

It is in remarkable condition, I changed the FD oil at same time, it had the original stinky black stuff in there, incredibly viscous but the garage was near freezing when I started, I warmed it a little which got things flowing better. Gearbox fluid change when I get some feeling back in my fingers
 
Don't just assume that it is river crossings that cause the corrosion - if you have ridden in damp weather conditions the inside of the rubber boot can collect condensation which causes some of the moisture - depending on how much lubrication was added at the factory can have an affect on if this causes corrosion - I never did river crossings and didn't wash bike with pressure washer and didn't have any holes or tears in the protective rubber gator - yet still the shaft was seized to the splines.

As said before - it only becomes an issue if you want to split the final drive hub from the shaft (for example to replace the protective rubber gator) or to conduct a repair on the final drive bearings or seals. It is a routine maintenance job in some other countries not in the UK - certain model years seem to be more affected than others so its probably caused primarily in manufacture depending on how much lubrication is added to the bike on the line.

For the sake of an hour or so in the garage when doing a winter clean its well worth inspecting and re-greasing for piece of mind - a good time to snap off the rubber gator and check it for holes and tears. While the brake calliper is off its worth giving it a clean behind the pads as well to keep the pistons sliding freely.

Its no big job - just a step further than routine cleaning.

Rik
 
Seems the general consensus is to check the fd, especially on newer bikes.
I'm sure this has been asked before but is there a workshop manual or a Haynes manual for the 1250GS?

Sent from my SM-G996B using Tapatalk
 
Onahi said:
Why are you mentioning 2009 bike ?
This is the 1200 1250 gs section. From 2013 onwards.
Click to expand...

True, I missed that but as the discussion was regarding splines and drive shafts, I thought it might be interesting to see condition of a GS shaft and final drive, the posted pictures had year of bike in the description.

I’m not even sure why the fluid/oil confusion arose, I blame Winjar:augie:augie
 
Popell said:
True, I missed that but as the discussion was regarding splines and drive shafts, I thought it might be interesting to see condition of a GS shaft and final drive, the posted pictures had year of bike in the description.

I’m not even sure why the fluid/oil confusion arose, I blame Winjar:augie:augie
Click to expand...

I accept promise I say no more the word fluid/oil spline with Onahi :beerjug:
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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