Love the rock formations and cave dwellings. Awesome 
Candover Valley UK to Euphrates Valley Turkey
- Thread starter Drumacoon Lad.
- Start date
Jim, what can I say, trip of a lifetime! It looks amazing and the little challenges so far seem to be keeping you perky. I am extremely jealous. Keep posting squire!
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Firstly, I’m not happy with how this report is coming together, there are 2 conflicting aims of this trip. One to do the ride and experience this fascinating country, the second is to have it adequately recorded. Some people can do the recording really well on the fly but I don’t find it that easy so I intent to update this when I can during the trip but with the forum moderators permission do a follow-up report in a tidier fashion, using the information here and some other notes, with more pictures and reflections, so if someone picks it up in 6 months it will be easier to read and follow…
But for now, The plan for today was a ride east out of Gazientep to see the Bosphorous river and then head south west to Altakya(Antioch). Well at least the speculative title of this report has been achieved as I parked my bike this morning by the Euphrates river. The day started with 25C at before 9 and the ride out of Gazientep which was a concern as the arrival was not a lot of fun, but don’t you find leaving a city is always easier than arriving. Well so it proved and soon I was heading east towards the Euphrates Valley. I arrived and parked with a sense of achievement. I went to take a couple of photos and the bike attracted a lot of attention from the minibus drivers around. It was all friendly, the asked where I came from, and how much the bike cost. I had not planned to hang around but as I was leaving one of the guys offered chai(tea), I initially declined but then agreed. The chai arrived and by now we had about 10 around the bike, more questions, how did my drinking bag work? One new arrival asked to see in my topbox, I though it strange but opened it, and there was some interest in my binoculars etc. Then I noticed my host, the guy who brought the chai, motioning me to close it. I think the guy had gone too far in asking me to open it and my host was looking after his guest. It was a lovely little exchange by the side of the river. As I left I switched on the bike and everyone crowded around again, I turned on the GPS and showed them the map of their town with the bridge over the river, lots of nods of approval. I thanked my host and rode off over that bridge, heading west for the first time in over a week.
The temperature rose steadily during the day, 30C, then 34C and the highest temperature I saw on the bike thermometer was 39.5C. I had not felt great yesterday after the ride and concluded that I was dehydrated, even though I was drinking, I was not drinking enough to compensate for the effect of the hot wind passing through my ventilated suit. So today I drank more and was better for it. However I still arrived hot in Antakya mid afternoon. For those interested the closest I got the the Syian border was about 5 miles and could certainly see the Syrian hills off to the left. There were a few army checkpoints but was not stopped. Maybe it’s because I was brought up near the Irish border that borders are not a big concern for me. However I did look across at Syria and it felt uneasy to be on holiday this close to a country in such conflict.
Nothing about the practicalities of the first few hours in Antoch went well but still I can’t help liking the place. The hotel is not great but I was beginning to feel it inappropriate to be in hotels with hair conditioner and complementary bath slippers, on a supposed adventure holiday, so I went for the cheaper option this time. I’m sure it will be fine, but not the best. After a quick shower I rushed over to the town’s famous Archaeology museum to be told it’s closed, special event apparently. So I have go in the morning. The next best thing to see is a cliff cave church which St Paul is supposed to have preached at, as he founded the Christian community in Antioch. It was still 38C so decided to take a taxi. The driver held up his hand showing 5 so I assumed the charge was 5Lira, when we got to the church he wanted 15 and we had a problem. In the end I gave him 10 and after a while he told me to get out. I think he got the better of the deal, so was not keen to call the police. When I got out I was told me the church was closed due to rock falls. Happy days! But from then on, my time here has been great, I had a pleasant walk back to the hotel, visited the bazaar and was not harassed as I walked around, had soem street food as I walked, sat and read my book in a square listening to a guy playing Turkish music and have just come back from a great meal of hummus, mezze and kunefe(instead of baklava). So I’d recommend Antakia for a visit if touring Turkey, it is remarkably relaxed, no hassle as you walk around and the food is excellent. Also, I popped into a bar on the way back here to the hotel and the live group were just tuning up, so I’m going down there instead of writing any more here…
But for now, The plan for today was a ride east out of Gazientep to see the Bosphorous river and then head south west to Altakya(Antioch). Well at least the speculative title of this report has been achieved as I parked my bike this morning by the Euphrates river. The day started with 25C at before 9 and the ride out of Gazientep which was a concern as the arrival was not a lot of fun, but don’t you find leaving a city is always easier than arriving. Well so it proved and soon I was heading east towards the Euphrates Valley. I arrived and parked with a sense of achievement. I went to take a couple of photos and the bike attracted a lot of attention from the minibus drivers around. It was all friendly, the asked where I came from, and how much the bike cost. I had not planned to hang around but as I was leaving one of the guys offered chai(tea), I initially declined but then agreed. The chai arrived and by now we had about 10 around the bike, more questions, how did my drinking bag work? One new arrival asked to see in my topbox, I though it strange but opened it, and there was some interest in my binoculars etc. Then I noticed my host, the guy who brought the chai, motioning me to close it. I think the guy had gone too far in asking me to open it and my host was looking after his guest. It was a lovely little exchange by the side of the river. As I left I switched on the bike and everyone crowded around again, I turned on the GPS and showed them the map of their town with the bridge over the river, lots of nods of approval. I thanked my host and rode off over that bridge, heading west for the first time in over a week.
The temperature rose steadily during the day, 30C, then 34C and the highest temperature I saw on the bike thermometer was 39.5C. I had not felt great yesterday after the ride and concluded that I was dehydrated, even though I was drinking, I was not drinking enough to compensate for the effect of the hot wind passing through my ventilated suit. So today I drank more and was better for it. However I still arrived hot in Antakya mid afternoon. For those interested the closest I got the the Syian border was about 5 miles and could certainly see the Syrian hills off to the left. There were a few army checkpoints but was not stopped. Maybe it’s because I was brought up near the Irish border that borders are not a big concern for me. However I did look across at Syria and it felt uneasy to be on holiday this close to a country in such conflict.
Nothing about the practicalities of the first few hours in Antoch went well but still I can’t help liking the place. The hotel is not great but I was beginning to feel it inappropriate to be in hotels with hair conditioner and complementary bath slippers, on a supposed adventure holiday, so I went for the cheaper option this time. I’m sure it will be fine, but not the best. After a quick shower I rushed over to the town’s famous Archaeology museum to be told it’s closed, special event apparently. So I have go in the morning. The next best thing to see is a cliff cave church which St Paul is supposed to have preached at, as he founded the Christian community in Antioch. It was still 38C so decided to take a taxi. The driver held up his hand showing 5 so I assumed the charge was 5Lira, when we got to the church he wanted 15 and we had a problem. In the end I gave him 10 and after a while he told me to get out. I think he got the better of the deal, so was not keen to call the police. When I got out I was told me the church was closed due to rock falls. Happy days! But from then on, my time here has been great, I had a pleasant walk back to the hotel, visited the bazaar and was not harassed as I walked around, had soem street food as I walked, sat and read my book in a square listening to a guy playing Turkish music and have just come back from a great meal of hummus, mezze and kunefe(instead of baklava). So I’d recommend Antakia for a visit if touring Turkey, it is remarkably relaxed, no hassle as you walk around and the food is excellent. Also, I popped into a bar on the way back here to the hotel and the live group were just tuning up, so I’m going down there instead of writing any more here…
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GSTourer. Close, good guess or deduction but not quite correct.
Really enjoying this... sounds like a bit of an Adventure! 
Thanks for the great updates and pictures, I am jealous as F***
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Just to finish last night, the Cabaret Bar was quite empty, the 4 piece band played Turkish music and were quite good, the beer was average and there was a 10lire cover charge added to the bill which was a surprise…
Anyway today started better than expected, with a good breakfast put on by the overall disappointing hotel. With the fact the room was smelly(smoke), the shower sprayed water everywhere and ended up flooding the bathroom floor, electric plugs hanging off the wall and a general air of scruffiness, I had not expected this decent breakfast. Next was down to check the bike was untouched overnight. At this point the hotel guy explained that I had not parked in view of the security camera he had told me about. Good to know this things in time!
I rushed over to the Archaeology Museum and if I understood the French guide correctly it is the 2nd museum in importance for murals, only superseded by the Tunis Museum. Well I had seen the murals in Tunis a long time ago so this should be good. It was good, and maybe it would be better had they not been renovating it, but it did not excite me in the same way as Tunis. Some of the Hittite and other early carvings were impressive and there was a wonderfully carved marble sarcophagus.
So back to the hotel and suit up for the trip. The plan today was to head south east towards Samandag. The guide book said the town was nothing special and having a lot of new building done, but I was only planning to ride through and the guide book was right. Not only buildings were under construction but the roads too. The roads were either block paving(a popular road surface in some towns here), block paving with blocks missing and some others a mixture of gravel and rocks. I was trying to find my way to a little coast road the other side of the town. This small road was on some maps but not on others, so it was a speculative plan. After a number of dead ends and getting lost in the road-works and general confusion after 30 minutes I was still in the town and it was already over 30C. There is only so much fun you can have lugging ¼ of a ton of motorbike around tight uneven streets in 30+ temperatures and I had about reached my limit. I stopped at a junction to review the options and fate intervened. I heard a whistle, looking around I saw a policeman approaching and he did not speak English. I gestured that ‘it wasn’t me’ or ‘I’m lost’ and he thought for a minute and said Antakia? I found myself saying yes and followed his directions, and in that moment giving up on the little road. It did mean making progress and with retracing my tracks a bit towards Antakya, I could then head north as planned. The little road is there for someone else to try out, and I’m sure someone has already, if so let me know what it was like.
So the new plan was to head for Tarsus to see Cleopatras Gate, a Roman arch, that she may have come though when she met Mark Anthony in Tarsus. It’s more colloquially known as the “Gate of the Bitch”. So back on to motorways and watch the temperature rise. Pretty soon it was in the high 30 and climbing. It peaked at 41C and stayed there for about 3 hours of the ride today. I don’t complain of the heat. If you come to Turkey you have to believe it can be warm, but this little heat wave so early has even surprised the locals and the temperatures are about 20C higher than they were 10 days ago and I have to recognise that prolonged riding in 40+ is draining. I do drink more now and this seems to help, thanks to having a water bag. I’ll talk more about equipment at the end of the trip… The heat and the fact I am heading west, with most of the aims of the trip achieved, made me reflect.
With the distances involved in less than 3 weeks the ride only made sense if I rode long days on the way down but shorter days on the return to allow time for sightseeing, and helped by the ferry from Greece to Venice which will save some road work. So far I’ve done about 3,120 miles or just over 5,000Km in 10 days. Two days were non riding days so its nearly 400 miles a day. What I found today, even though it was not a very long distance day, the excessive heat makes the riding hard. The plan for this trip, on my, own was to stretch me and, see how I coped and it’s doing that. So if this was a project, it’s delivering on those objectives. But it is also true that when you are riding to a clear objecting like to, Istanbul or to the Bosphorus somehow the motivation is stronger and the hard riding is not so draining. I also began to work out that in 4 more days I need to be at Ismir for the ferry to Athens. Again another ferry to reduce the riding on the way back.
While I may not cope too well with the heat at times, the bike just does what it’s asked. I gave it a little oil today, it hardly needed it but I felt I should give it a bit of TLC as now that it has got me down here I’d quite like it to get me back. Checking oil and topping up is about all I do with the bike on long trips, specifically I don’t clean it, including the flies on the screen. They have to remain on the bike until it’s back on my drive as testament to the miles covered. The state of the front of it gets some funny looks, but I think it looks great, just the part! While topping up the oil this morning outside the hotel quite a crowd gathered. The usual questions, how much does it cost. I always feel a little uncomfortable with this question, equally I don’t like to be evasive, so have picked on a 20,000$ figure. When I said that to the guy at the Bosphorus he pointed at a large VW van and indicated he would expect to get a van for that money, not just a bike. Today the guy outside the hotel said he would expect a BMW car for the money. Anyway it’s worth it all for me on this trip.
On the motorway towards Tarsus I stopped for a break and for fuel. In Turkey the petrol is always served. The guy asked me a few questions and then offered chai. I accepted and reflected what a great custom this was. Imagine when you filled up with petrol at home you were offered a latte or cappuccino. It just made me stop a little longer and begin the journey more refreshed and in a positive frame of mind. I’m not saying that everything in Turkey is better than elsewhere, clearly not, but the chai customer is a great one. One of the things I like about travel is to reflect on how people in other countries live their lives, and what we may learn from them.
The fact that the Garmin had the location of the gate in Tarsus made finding it easy and on arrival I pulled over to take some pictures, parking outside a kebab shop. So that was lunch sorted, coke, kebab, 2 side salads, small water, Nescafe to finish all for just over £2, less than 3 Euro, perfect. I took the chance to decide on the final destination tonight and the Rough Guide came out and the map. I chose Silifke, about 2 more hours up the road and picked a hotel from the guide which was in the Garmin so it would take me there. Silifle is also close to the Gusku delta famous for rare birds. About half way to Silifke the motorway ran out and the road hugged the coast. Some of the towns I rode through were quite touristy and it was a bit of a shock after the authenticity of Gazientep and Antakia but I suppose something I’ll have to get used to as I head west along the coast. The Garmin led me to the Gusko Hotel and it looked promising and even had off-road parking, the bike would be pleased. I parked up and asked about a room. They had singles for 60Lira about £22. I asked to see the room after last night’s experience, it was clean, no bathroom slippers or hair conditioner, it would be OK, and they had wifi!
I showered quickly as I hoped to get down to the delta for some bird-watching once I had something quick to eat. I heard a noise at the back of the hotel and went around to investigate. There was a little Turkish food festival in progress by the side of the river, happy days! So 5 minutes later, I’m sitting with a mince lamb wrap, cup of chai, bottle of water and baklava, by the side of the river looking up at a Byzantine castle which overlooks the town. The river of course is the one Fredric Barbarossa drowned in, a few miles away, while on his way to the crusades. So fast food and culture all in one. Isn’t travel great! However it’s now about 19:00 and the sun is setting and not much twilight here so it’s too late to see the birds. I used the time to fill up with petrol and will consider whether I’d go down in the morning before setting off.
Anyway today started better than expected, with a good breakfast put on by the overall disappointing hotel. With the fact the room was smelly(smoke), the shower sprayed water everywhere and ended up flooding the bathroom floor, electric plugs hanging off the wall and a general air of scruffiness, I had not expected this decent breakfast. Next was down to check the bike was untouched overnight. At this point the hotel guy explained that I had not parked in view of the security camera he had told me about. Good to know this things in time!
I rushed over to the Archaeology Museum and if I understood the French guide correctly it is the 2nd museum in importance for murals, only superseded by the Tunis Museum. Well I had seen the murals in Tunis a long time ago so this should be good. It was good, and maybe it would be better had they not been renovating it, but it did not excite me in the same way as Tunis. Some of the Hittite and other early carvings were impressive and there was a wonderfully carved marble sarcophagus.
So back to the hotel and suit up for the trip. The plan today was to head south east towards Samandag. The guide book said the town was nothing special and having a lot of new building done, but I was only planning to ride through and the guide book was right. Not only buildings were under construction but the roads too. The roads were either block paving(a popular road surface in some towns here), block paving with blocks missing and some others a mixture of gravel and rocks. I was trying to find my way to a little coast road the other side of the town. This small road was on some maps but not on others, so it was a speculative plan. After a number of dead ends and getting lost in the road-works and general confusion after 30 minutes I was still in the town and it was already over 30C. There is only so much fun you can have lugging ¼ of a ton of motorbike around tight uneven streets in 30+ temperatures and I had about reached my limit. I stopped at a junction to review the options and fate intervened. I heard a whistle, looking around I saw a policeman approaching and he did not speak English. I gestured that ‘it wasn’t me’ or ‘I’m lost’ and he thought for a minute and said Antakia? I found myself saying yes and followed his directions, and in that moment giving up on the little road. It did mean making progress and with retracing my tracks a bit towards Antakya, I could then head north as planned. The little road is there for someone else to try out, and I’m sure someone has already, if so let me know what it was like.
So the new plan was to head for Tarsus to see Cleopatras Gate, a Roman arch, that she may have come though when she met Mark Anthony in Tarsus. It’s more colloquially known as the “Gate of the Bitch”. So back on to motorways and watch the temperature rise. Pretty soon it was in the high 30 and climbing. It peaked at 41C and stayed there for about 3 hours of the ride today. I don’t complain of the heat. If you come to Turkey you have to believe it can be warm, but this little heat wave so early has even surprised the locals and the temperatures are about 20C higher than they were 10 days ago and I have to recognise that prolonged riding in 40+ is draining. I do drink more now and this seems to help, thanks to having a water bag. I’ll talk more about equipment at the end of the trip… The heat and the fact I am heading west, with most of the aims of the trip achieved, made me reflect.
With the distances involved in less than 3 weeks the ride only made sense if I rode long days on the way down but shorter days on the return to allow time for sightseeing, and helped by the ferry from Greece to Venice which will save some road work. So far I’ve done about 3,120 miles or just over 5,000Km in 10 days. Two days were non riding days so its nearly 400 miles a day. What I found today, even though it was not a very long distance day, the excessive heat makes the riding hard. The plan for this trip, on my, own was to stretch me and, see how I coped and it’s doing that. So if this was a project, it’s delivering on those objectives. But it is also true that when you are riding to a clear objecting like to, Istanbul or to the Bosphorus somehow the motivation is stronger and the hard riding is not so draining. I also began to work out that in 4 more days I need to be at Ismir for the ferry to Athens. Again another ferry to reduce the riding on the way back.
While I may not cope too well with the heat at times, the bike just does what it’s asked. I gave it a little oil today, it hardly needed it but I felt I should give it a bit of TLC as now that it has got me down here I’d quite like it to get me back. Checking oil and topping up is about all I do with the bike on long trips, specifically I don’t clean it, including the flies on the screen. They have to remain on the bike until it’s back on my drive as testament to the miles covered. The state of the front of it gets some funny looks, but I think it looks great, just the part! While topping up the oil this morning outside the hotel quite a crowd gathered. The usual questions, how much does it cost. I always feel a little uncomfortable with this question, equally I don’t like to be evasive, so have picked on a 20,000$ figure. When I said that to the guy at the Bosphorus he pointed at a large VW van and indicated he would expect to get a van for that money, not just a bike. Today the guy outside the hotel said he would expect a BMW car for the money. Anyway it’s worth it all for me on this trip.
On the motorway towards Tarsus I stopped for a break and for fuel. In Turkey the petrol is always served. The guy asked me a few questions and then offered chai. I accepted and reflected what a great custom this was. Imagine when you filled up with petrol at home you were offered a latte or cappuccino. It just made me stop a little longer and begin the journey more refreshed and in a positive frame of mind. I’m not saying that everything in Turkey is better than elsewhere, clearly not, but the chai customer is a great one. One of the things I like about travel is to reflect on how people in other countries live their lives, and what we may learn from them.
The fact that the Garmin had the location of the gate in Tarsus made finding it easy and on arrival I pulled over to take some pictures, parking outside a kebab shop. So that was lunch sorted, coke, kebab, 2 side salads, small water, Nescafe to finish all for just over £2, less than 3 Euro, perfect. I took the chance to decide on the final destination tonight and the Rough Guide came out and the map. I chose Silifke, about 2 more hours up the road and picked a hotel from the guide which was in the Garmin so it would take me there. Silifle is also close to the Gusku delta famous for rare birds. About half way to Silifke the motorway ran out and the road hugged the coast. Some of the towns I rode through were quite touristy and it was a bit of a shock after the authenticity of Gazientep and Antakia but I suppose something I’ll have to get used to as I head west along the coast. The Garmin led me to the Gusko Hotel and it looked promising and even had off-road parking, the bike would be pleased. I parked up and asked about a room. They had singles for 60Lira about £22. I asked to see the room after last night’s experience, it was clean, no bathroom slippers or hair conditioner, it would be OK, and they had wifi!
I showered quickly as I hoped to get down to the delta for some bird-watching once I had something quick to eat. I heard a noise at the back of the hotel and went around to investigate. There was a little Turkish food festival in progress by the side of the river, happy days! So 5 minutes later, I’m sitting with a mince lamb wrap, cup of chai, bottle of water and baklava, by the side of the river looking up at a Byzantine castle which overlooks the town. The river of course is the one Fredric Barbarossa drowned in, a few miles away, while on his way to the crusades. So fast food and culture all in one. Isn’t travel great! However it’s now about 19:00 and the sun is setting and not much twilight here so it’s too late to see the birds. I used the time to fill up with petrol and will consider whether I’d go down in the morning before setting off.
Happy memories
Having fun reading this
Me and Shadwell did a very similar trip last September, as in blast there quick stop overs sight seeing then blast it home. So relating to the traffic of Istanbul yep bloody hectic, tea when ever you get fuel great custom, getting the maps out makes you new friends. Looking forward to your pictures. Enjoy the rest of your days and safe trip home.
Having fun reading this
Me and Shadwell did a very similar trip last September, as in blast there quick stop overs sight seeing then blast it home. So relating to the traffic of Istanbul yep bloody hectic, tea when ever you get fuel great custom, getting the maps out makes you new friends. Looking forward to your pictures. Enjoy the rest of your days and safe trip home.
Nice one Jim .
Giving my plenty of ideas for my trip in September
Thanks for posting up.
cheers, Tony
.Giving my plenty of ideas for my trip in September
Thanks for posting up.
cheers, Tony
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Thanks Guys, I'm in Olympos now. Had another hard day in the saddle, with over 3 hours of twisties coming east along the coast from Silifke. The first real riding I've had to do on the trip, great fun but takes it out of you.
Have found out though that the ferries from Izmir to Grece do not seem to work for me so I'll be going overland via Gallipoli up to Iguminitsa as originally planned, and want to see Pamukkale and Ephesos before then. So may not be much time for writing up. Pleanty of time on the ferry to Venice though, when it's still fresh in the memory. Off to the see the burning rocks of the Chimarea tomorrow morning before leaving...
Tony, we can chat before your September trip if it helps...
Have found out though that the ferries from Izmir to Grece do not seem to work for me so I'll be going overland via Gallipoli up to Iguminitsa as originally planned, and want to see Pamukkale and Ephesos before then. So may not be much time for writing up. Pleanty of time on the ferry to Venice though, when it's still fresh in the memory. Off to the see the burning rocks of the Chimarea tomorrow morning before leaving...
Tony, we can chat before your September trip if it helps...
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Well yesterday and today deserve a proper write up but as I only got to the hotel at 9PM it will not be today. It is worth noting that there are 2 cities called Selcuk in Garmin, both are listed in Ismir region. Only one of them is the Selcuk, near Ephesus the other is near Ismir. Well it was a great sunset in Ismir, but I am now in Selcuk near Ephesus and hope to visit the site in the morning.
Today started with a visit to the Chimaera with the burning rocks. I was the first visitor and had the place to myself. It is an amazing phenomenon and much more powerful than I had expected. Then I rode off to Pamukkale, 200 miles, to see the Roman site of Hierapolus and next door the spectacular hot spring pools. I soaked my feet for a bit and soaked up the atmosphere. It was something quite special to visit the Chimaera and the Pamukkale pools in the same day. This country has some quite special sites.
Also adjusted the damping on the suspension as the bike was not feeeling as planted as normal, seems better now. Ephesus tomorrow and then up north.
Today started with a visit to the Chimaera with the burning rocks. I was the first visitor and had the place to myself. It is an amazing phenomenon and much more powerful than I had expected. Then I rode off to Pamukkale, 200 miles, to see the Roman site of Hierapolus and next door the spectacular hot spring pools. I soaked my feet for a bit and soaked up the atmosphere. It was something quite special to visit the Chimaera and the Pamukkale pools in the same day. This country has some quite special sites.
Also adjusted the damping on the suspension as the bike was not feeeling as planted as normal, seems better now. Ephesus tomorrow and then up north.
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Worth saying that when I eventually arrived at the correct Selcuk last night it was already dark and the only hotel I could remember from the Rough Guide that I could find in the Garmin was Jimmys Palace. The GPS took me to the door and sitting outside was a guy who turned out to be Jimmy and to my delight he had a room and with breakfast it was £22, just the ending this day needed. Once I’d showered he pointed me at a little square with restaurants and I had a meal and a beer watching the Euro football with the locals. Sadly their team didn’t win but they are keen supporters and I was made welcome, may have been different if I was from Portugal!
This morning I headed off to Ephesus a bit later than hoped. It’s only a few miles out of Selcuk. No charge for the bike at the car-park and went in to the site. It was still quiet then and had a good look around and took some photos. After getting about half way in I could see towards the other entrance and there were hoards of people coming, hundreds and hundreds. Suddenly I was surrounded and lost all pleasure in being there and headed back. Just as I was leaving I spotted storks roosting on one of the Roman columns, something I last saw in Morocco, the highpoint of the visit. In fairness Ephesus is a significant site end they say one of the best preserved Roman cities, but it’s hard not to compare it to Pompeii which is in a different league in terms of complete buildings and in understanding the Roman way of life. Glad to have seen it though and some if the detailed carving was quite special.
Back at the bike all was as I had left it, with my jacket and trousers, helmet underneath Jacket, all untouched. Over the time here I’ve got to trust the people and the bike has been parked outside hotels mostly in the street overnight without a problem. After filling up the waterbag and checking there are a few sweets in the handle bar bag, I was off up North, past Izmir and heading for Assos. It was motorway first and then a dual carriageway with traffic lights. Now and again the road was very close to the sea and there were wonderful views and it kept the temperature reasonable. As I neared Assos the route led down a little road which was the worst so far in Turkey, it was a narrow road but badly pot holed. On a bike you can miss the worst of them and I am on a GS, but one nearly caught me out as it was just over a crest. I’d kept to my side as I rose over the crest in case there was anything coming and just over the crest was a nasty pothole which may have thrown me off. Luckily there was nothing coming and I was able to skirt it by diving over to the other side.
I was warned in the guide book that this place is popular, expensive and may be overbooked near a weekend. However, the first hotel I tried had rooms at reasonable cost and was just in front of the beach. The lady in charge sadly had no English and for the third time at hotels here I've had to communicate in German, I'm sure I'd have managed if I had no German but hat has proved handy at times. It was only 4 PM and I could have gone on further but I have the time to get to the ferry, so I took it. The only downside of the hotel is the carpark, nice fresh gravel. I know I’m a wimp but I hate gravel and had to have it removed from the house I bought a few years ago.
Anyway, it was a good decision, been a chilled afternoon, had a nice fish meal and rested up a bit after a full-on trip up to now. The hotel appears to have only one guest this evening and one diner in the restaurant. Further north tomorrow, Troy and Gallipoli
This morning I headed off to Ephesus a bit later than hoped. It’s only a few miles out of Selcuk. No charge for the bike at the car-park and went in to the site. It was still quiet then and had a good look around and took some photos. After getting about half way in I could see towards the other entrance and there were hoards of people coming, hundreds and hundreds. Suddenly I was surrounded and lost all pleasure in being there and headed back. Just as I was leaving I spotted storks roosting on one of the Roman columns, something I last saw in Morocco, the highpoint of the visit. In fairness Ephesus is a significant site end they say one of the best preserved Roman cities, but it’s hard not to compare it to Pompeii which is in a different league in terms of complete buildings and in understanding the Roman way of life. Glad to have seen it though and some if the detailed carving was quite special.
Back at the bike all was as I had left it, with my jacket and trousers, helmet underneath Jacket, all untouched. Over the time here I’ve got to trust the people and the bike has been parked outside hotels mostly in the street overnight without a problem. After filling up the waterbag and checking there are a few sweets in the handle bar bag, I was off up North, past Izmir and heading for Assos. It was motorway first and then a dual carriageway with traffic lights. Now and again the road was very close to the sea and there were wonderful views and it kept the temperature reasonable. As I neared Assos the route led down a little road which was the worst so far in Turkey, it was a narrow road but badly pot holed. On a bike you can miss the worst of them and I am on a GS, but one nearly caught me out as it was just over a crest. I’d kept to my side as I rose over the crest in case there was anything coming and just over the crest was a nasty pothole which may have thrown me off. Luckily there was nothing coming and I was able to skirt it by diving over to the other side.
I was warned in the guide book that this place is popular, expensive and may be overbooked near a weekend. However, the first hotel I tried had rooms at reasonable cost and was just in front of the beach. The lady in charge sadly had no English and for the third time at hotels here I've had to communicate in German, I'm sure I'd have managed if I had no German but hat has proved handy at times. It was only 4 PM and I could have gone on further but I have the time to get to the ferry, so I took it. The only downside of the hotel is the carpark, nice fresh gravel. I know I’m a wimp but I hate gravel and had to have it removed from the house I bought a few years ago.
Anyway, it was a good decision, been a chilled afternoon, had a nice fish meal and rested up a bit after a full-on trip up to now. The hotel appears to have only one guest this evening and one diner in the restaurant. Further north tomorrow, Troy and Gallipoli
What a terrific trip & RR. I've never fancied Turkey but this is making me think again.
Thanx for taking the time.
Thanx for taking the time.
Not trying to hijack a great report.
I have done a fare bit of traveling with work and play visiting rich and poor countries alike and it has to be said turkey has been one of my favourite. With the friendliest of people they help you because they can and not for what they can get out of you. So for all those thinking of future trips, defiantly consider Turkey but give your self plenty of time it deserves it.
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Breakfast this morning was on the hotel terrace and again the only guest to show. Warm enough for shirtsleeves and there was a haze on the sea. The hotel cat pestered me, like last night, but this time I gave her a piece of my sausage.
The plan for the day was to ride up the little road going west of Assos and going though Gulpinar before re-joining the main road to Troy. The road was a delight, not potholed like the road in to Assos, it wound it’s way through the hills, down to the sea at times and through farming villages. It was an easy ride not like the one west of Silifke, the corners here were not sharp and it was almost a case of giving the bike it’s head and taking in the scenery. There was the odd tortoise crossing the road but he was easy to avoid, not like rabbits who change direction quickly. I did have to stop initially and modify the damping on the suspension to lessen it a bit on this bumpy road and I seem now to have found the ideal setting. The people in the villagers are clearly not used to tourists and I was watched as I rode through. In one village there was a small street market and I stopped for a look, clothing, hand made tools fruit etc. I made a few purchases. The women in this area wear a traditional dress which is very colourful, photos to follow. Before too long the road ran out and I was back out on the main road near Ezine and en route for Troy.
The first thing to see at Troy is a great big wooden horse, what a surprise! The site is just my size and you could get around it in about 30 mins. It’s worth a visit as you can see how it was laid out. It goes back to well before the Romans and the name has a bit of a ring to it. Perched up on a hill with a commanding view you can see it would have been quite a sronghold. As I drank a coffee before leaving a French guy asked to sit at my table and we chatted. He is a tour guide researching Turkey for future tours. We were comparing notes and saying what a great place Turkey was. He was using public transport and told me how efficient it was, free drinks on the coaches, always on time etc. It was a pleasant exchange.
As I was riding away in a good mood I was thinking about the horse having a laugh with myself and imagined the following conversation:-
- So where did you go today
- Troy
- Ah, where the guys build the big horse with the soldiers inside
- That's them, and they are at it again
- It won’t work again
- They say it's a better horse this time, with windows
- Why windows?
- They said the soldiers were complaining it was hot and they couldn't see out
- I see, did you mention about Homer writing about it, and everyone now knows the secret now
- I did, they said who's Homer, at that point I thought it better to leave them to it
Anyway, it amused me and passed a few kilometres on the road(photo below)
I suspected the 2nd half of the day was not going to be so light-hearted as I rode towards Gallipoli. The ferry across was from Canakkale and proved difficult to get to, but 2nd time round the roundabout I spotted the right exit partially hidden by a police car. I arrived at the ferry but did not recognise where it was going and hesitated, but it was the right one and cost 6Tl(just over £2) for the bike and I. Getting over the other side I turned left and went down the peninsula. The first thing that strikes you is how beautiful it is, green sloping hills, beaches, and a turquoise sea. However you can see that it would be a hard place to attack if the enemy was on the hills and well prepared. I rode along and stopped at a Turkish Cemetery. Crossing over to the other side of the peninsula I came across British and ANSAC graveyards.
Now I was aware of Gallipoli but apart from it being a failed campaign during the first world war it did not have great significance to me apart from a general sadness at the loss of life. However today in that graveyard I first found a couple of graves of soldiers from the Hampshire regiment. Now I live in Hampshire and was moved to think these were lads came from the same county. Next I came across graves of soldiers from the Connaught Rangers, Irish lads like myself who had come all this way, not on holiday but to be killed. It also brought to mind that a few years ago I was in Sarajevo and standing on the corner where Archduke Franz Ferdinand’s driver made the wrong turn and gave his assassin a 2nd chance to shoot him and this time the assassin was successful, starting WW1. In a way one consequence of that mistake in Sarajevo was the deaths of these poor guys here, from Hampshire and Connaught.
I looked at a few more graveyards and took in the topography of the place, but in the end headed further north, in a sombre mood, deciding to read up more about the campaign now that it had greater meaning for me. Travel eh!
The plan for the day was to ride up the little road going west of Assos and going though Gulpinar before re-joining the main road to Troy. The road was a delight, not potholed like the road in to Assos, it wound it’s way through the hills, down to the sea at times and through farming villages. It was an easy ride not like the one west of Silifke, the corners here were not sharp and it was almost a case of giving the bike it’s head and taking in the scenery. There was the odd tortoise crossing the road but he was easy to avoid, not like rabbits who change direction quickly. I did have to stop initially and modify the damping on the suspension to lessen it a bit on this bumpy road and I seem now to have found the ideal setting. The people in the villagers are clearly not used to tourists and I was watched as I rode through. In one village there was a small street market and I stopped for a look, clothing, hand made tools fruit etc. I made a few purchases. The women in this area wear a traditional dress which is very colourful, photos to follow. Before too long the road ran out and I was back out on the main road near Ezine and en route for Troy.
The first thing to see at Troy is a great big wooden horse, what a surprise! The site is just my size and you could get around it in about 30 mins. It’s worth a visit as you can see how it was laid out. It goes back to well before the Romans and the name has a bit of a ring to it. Perched up on a hill with a commanding view you can see it would have been quite a sronghold. As I drank a coffee before leaving a French guy asked to sit at my table and we chatted. He is a tour guide researching Turkey for future tours. We were comparing notes and saying what a great place Turkey was. He was using public transport and told me how efficient it was, free drinks on the coaches, always on time etc. It was a pleasant exchange.
As I was riding away in a good mood I was thinking about the horse having a laugh with myself and imagined the following conversation:-
- So where did you go today
- Troy
- Ah, where the guys build the big horse with the soldiers inside
- That's them, and they are at it again
- It won’t work again
- They say it's a better horse this time, with windows
- Why windows?
- They said the soldiers were complaining it was hot and they couldn't see out
- I see, did you mention about Homer writing about it, and everyone now knows the secret now
- I did, they said who's Homer, at that point I thought it better to leave them to it
Anyway, it amused me and passed a few kilometres on the road(photo below)
I suspected the 2nd half of the day was not going to be so light-hearted as I rode towards Gallipoli. The ferry across was from Canakkale and proved difficult to get to, but 2nd time round the roundabout I spotted the right exit partially hidden by a police car. I arrived at the ferry but did not recognise where it was going and hesitated, but it was the right one and cost 6Tl(just over £2) for the bike and I. Getting over the other side I turned left and went down the peninsula. The first thing that strikes you is how beautiful it is, green sloping hills, beaches, and a turquoise sea. However you can see that it would be a hard place to attack if the enemy was on the hills and well prepared. I rode along and stopped at a Turkish Cemetery. Crossing over to the other side of the peninsula I came across British and ANSAC graveyards.
Now I was aware of Gallipoli but apart from it being a failed campaign during the first world war it did not have great significance to me apart from a general sadness at the loss of life. However today in that graveyard I first found a couple of graves of soldiers from the Hampshire regiment. Now I live in Hampshire and was moved to think these were lads came from the same county. Next I came across graves of soldiers from the Connaught Rangers, Irish lads like myself who had come all this way, not on holiday but to be killed. It also brought to mind that a few years ago I was in Sarajevo and standing on the corner where Archduke Franz Ferdinand’s driver made the wrong turn and gave his assassin a 2nd chance to shoot him and this time the assassin was successful, starting WW1. In a way one consequence of that mistake in Sarajevo was the deaths of these poor guys here, from Hampshire and Connaught.
I looked at a few more graveyards and took in the topography of the place, but in the end headed further north, in a sombre mood, deciding to read up more about the campaign now that it had greater meaning for me. Travel eh!
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After leaving the area of conflict and the graveyards yesterday I headed north with the intention of staying in Gallipoli the town but the only hotel recommended was closed so I decided to go on to Kesan, nearer the Greek border, which would allow me to go further into Greece today. Kesan was not recommended by the Rough Guide as a place to stay so I went for a hotel in the Garmin, could not find that but fell over the Prestige Hotel and pulled over. The communication was difficult as there was little English but effectively they had a £20 room not refurbished or a refurbished room at £30. Now if it had been earlier in the holiday I’d have taken the cheap one but it was my last day in Turkey so I splashed out and they also had a car park. The guy came out to direct me to the carpark. One snag was there was a street market in progress and he seemed to be directing me through the middle of it and he was. He sort of parted the people, waved me on, and I think he wanted me to go a bit faster and scatter them. Anyway we got to the park and I don’t believe I ran over anyone and got the bike parked. He assured me there was 24 hour security. However the next morning there was clear evidence the bike had been tampered with, the first time and on my last night in Turkey, quite disappointing. Yes, those were certainly cat hairs all over my sheepskin seat cover. It seems the hotel cat had a comfortable night. I also had a potentially serious equipment failure, the mouthpiece had disappeared from my drinking bag hose. Now where had I been that morning, planning to retrace my steps as I did not want to be without water as I rode. However, I was in luck, the mouthpiece was by my feet, it had just fallen off and I was able to reinstall it. I'll talk about the drink bag when I discuss equipment at the end, but the 90 degree angle on this one is not ideal and gets snagged, which is what pulled off the mouthpiece.
Isn't it good to be discussing such minor issues!
Got packed up and away and it was a short ride to the border. The procedure was a lot simpler than getting into Turkey. It took about 5 mins, but there were still 3 booths to be visited and vehicle documents to be checked. Getting into Greece consisted of one question:-
- Are you from Italy? –
- No, Ireland!
- Then carry on.
And suddenly I was in Greece, back in the EU and on a motorway heading west. Not just any motorway, this was one of the smoothest roads I have ever been on. It was pretty empty too. It had wonderful scenery as well. Mountains on one side and glimpses of the sea to the left at times. It also had corners now and then, nice smooth bends where you could lean the bike over with confidence, a quite enjoyable ride. Long Way Down music came on again, 1st time since Serbia. However, before I get carried away, the Greeks can clearly build good motorways, and they did invent democracy, but they have not yet understood the idea of a motorway service station. Their idea of a refuelling stop is to take an exit into the next village and use the village petrol station. I was getting grumpy about this as I rode along, but in the end had to give in and take an exit and go to the petrol station about a mile from the motorway. However maybe the Greeks have something in the idea, as it was a pleasant stop. The guys chatted to me, offered to wash the bike but I declined, and ended up giving me a free drink from the cooler. I returned to the motorway more refreshed than normal and feeling good about the human condition.
Did I mention how well the bike was running? I’m sure my positive view of the motorway was coloured by how smooth the bike felt today. Do you know those sort of days when you almost have to hold the bike back and you are not conscious of a load of metal clattering under the petrol tank but feel there is a turbine which will smoothly deliver as much power as you want. Well it was that sort of day! The other pleasure of this ride was that I started to notice bikes coming the other way. Big bikes, GSs and GSAs and other bikes with luggage, damn them, heading towards Turkey. Despite the bike gliding along I was not going fast enough for the 4 Italian guys who came up behind me, a couple of BMs, a GSA and a K. The passed very close, with a wave and rode off like part of the Italian close formation riding team, no more than a few meters apart, doing 140Km/h. It was good to feel bikes around me, but maybe not that close.
Arriving in Thessalonica I headed for a hotel I had picked out. However there was major road-works and it was difficult to get to it. I parked up and walked, they had a room, and I had decided I could park the bike outside, hidden behind the road-works partitions. They mentioned a price and I suggested it was more than I could afford and we agreed on a price 7Euro less and the 10Euro I budgeted for parking also saved. Thessalonica is a great little city. Lots of street life around the harbour, bars, restaurant and just people promenading along, a bit like happens in Spain. A cool frappe looking out on the harbour was a good way to relax after the ride.
Off to Igoumenitsa tomorrow via the Vikos Gorge, the deepest gorge in the world,
(http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vikos_Gorge) then ferry to Venice on Tuesday morning, so there may not be updates for a couple of days.
Isn't it good to be discussing such minor issues!
Got packed up and away and it was a short ride to the border. The procedure was a lot simpler than getting into Turkey. It took about 5 mins, but there were still 3 booths to be visited and vehicle documents to be checked. Getting into Greece consisted of one question:-
- Are you from Italy? –
- No, Ireland!
- Then carry on.
And suddenly I was in Greece, back in the EU and on a motorway heading west. Not just any motorway, this was one of the smoothest roads I have ever been on. It was pretty empty too. It had wonderful scenery as well. Mountains on one side and glimpses of the sea to the left at times. It also had corners now and then, nice smooth bends where you could lean the bike over with confidence, a quite enjoyable ride. Long Way Down music came on again, 1st time since Serbia. However, before I get carried away, the Greeks can clearly build good motorways, and they did invent democracy, but they have not yet understood the idea of a motorway service station. Their idea of a refuelling stop is to take an exit into the next village and use the village petrol station. I was getting grumpy about this as I rode along, but in the end had to give in and take an exit and go to the petrol station about a mile from the motorway. However maybe the Greeks have something in the idea, as it was a pleasant stop. The guys chatted to me, offered to wash the bike but I declined, and ended up giving me a free drink from the cooler. I returned to the motorway more refreshed than normal and feeling good about the human condition.
Did I mention how well the bike was running? I’m sure my positive view of the motorway was coloured by how smooth the bike felt today. Do you know those sort of days when you almost have to hold the bike back and you are not conscious of a load of metal clattering under the petrol tank but feel there is a turbine which will smoothly deliver as much power as you want. Well it was that sort of day! The other pleasure of this ride was that I started to notice bikes coming the other way. Big bikes, GSs and GSAs and other bikes with luggage, damn them, heading towards Turkey. Despite the bike gliding along I was not going fast enough for the 4 Italian guys who came up behind me, a couple of BMs, a GSA and a K. The passed very close, with a wave and rode off like part of the Italian close formation riding team, no more than a few meters apart, doing 140Km/h. It was good to feel bikes around me, but maybe not that close.
Arriving in Thessalonica I headed for a hotel I had picked out. However there was major road-works and it was difficult to get to it. I parked up and walked, they had a room, and I had decided I could park the bike outside, hidden behind the road-works partitions. They mentioned a price and I suggested it was more than I could afford and we agreed on a price 7Euro less and the 10Euro I budgeted for parking also saved. Thessalonica is a great little city. Lots of street life around the harbour, bars, restaurant and just people promenading along, a bit like happens in Spain. A cool frappe looking out on the harbour was a good way to relax after the ride.
Off to Igoumenitsa tomorrow via the Vikos Gorge, the deepest gorge in the world,
(http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vikos_Gorge) then ferry to Venice on Tuesday morning, so there may not be updates for a couple of days.
Great ride report Jim. Keep it going!
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Just a short update today from Igoumenitza in Greece as I'll be catching a ferry to Venice very early in the morning and need some beauty sleep.
Well I rode great roads today, then through thunderstorms in the mountains, visted the very impressive Vikos Gorge and then spotted this little road(shown below). Even in the rain it had to be ridden, right! Details of where it is will be in the full report.
Oh and as we are nearing the end of the trip, any advance on the contents of the black flask.
Well I rode great roads today, then through thunderstorms in the mountains, visted the very impressive Vikos Gorge and then spotted this little road(shown below). Even in the rain it had to be ridden, right! Details of where it is will be in the full report.
Oh and as we are nearing the end of the trip, any advance on the contents of the black flask.
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