Carb vs Fuel injection

nick.ct

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OK

Been reading about this as far as ye olde 1100 motors are concerned. In summary, for my simple mind.


Fuel Injection

For:
Doesnt seem to go wrong very often and leave you stranded

Against:
Bit of a faff to get it running well and keep it running well at low engine speeds, trickling through traffic is often mentioned. Many dealers seem incapable of acheiving this although many independents get things running very sweetly.


Carburettors

For:
Most people who've had the conversion done professionally seem to think that the bike is far better to 'ride' in the real world. I say professionally done as it seems fair to compare it to a professionally installed, ie BMW, fuel injection system.

Against:
Costs the best part of £1k for the parts, installation and set up to do the conversion professionally. Possibility of spares, circuit boards etc not being available in the future.


Now what if the advantages of a Carb set up could be acheived for say £100-200 without having to bin what has proved to be quite a reliable, if basic, fuel injection system with its inherent spares availability?


Thinking a bit further about getting the best of both worlds without the cost, got me wondering about carbs with TPS so that the OE ECU continues to work for timing etc ............. carbs are still going to be expensive though.

Mmmmm........ If you go down the route of using CV carbs, then the airbox needs modifying as well as in its standard form it provides positive air pressure due to the forward motion of the bike. This of course doesnt matter with fuel injection as the ECU takes care of it. ( Altough, as an aside, maybe using a bleed from the airbox to the CV carb would overcome this by eqalising the pressure?)

So, distilling my thoughts of keeping things as close to original as possible (for spares and reliability) but wishing to have the advantage of the smooth power delivery from low revs you get from carbs, all without costing very much ................. and this is where I would appreciate feedback from all the collected wisdom out there ............... I thought this may be worth looking at.

Replace one throttle body ( the one without the TPS) with one 40mm carb ( probably non CV)
The fuel for the carb would need to be sorted, maybe a T off the fuel return, something low pressure anyway.
The means of operating the carb would need to be sorted, maybe use the existing throttle cable.
The necessity of a choke for the carb for cold starting, maybe the fast idle on the remaining throttle body will be enough until the engine warms up.


CMon guys, comments please .............. Have I really lost the plot or might something along these lines actually work?
 
Leave it as it is................spend the £1k on holiday trip, for you and the bike:thumb
 
Seing as everything is better in retro world why not dump the electronic ignition and fit points and condensor. :D
 
Oh FFS.......... Did anyone read my first post in this thread :blast

I acknowledge that the existing system is reliable so no need for a return to points and condenser

Looking to spend a SMALL sum on making the bike run better not the £1k for a full conversion

SO LET'S HEAR FROM YOU. WHY IS THIS NOT GOING TO WORK? WHAT NEEDS TO BE LOOKED OUT FOR?






:hide
 
Best tips based on my own experience of a '96 1100 which was all over the place in traffic:

Rebuild throttle bodies - Scriminger engineering did a great job.

Replace single cable with splitter box and three cable set up as per later bike.

You won't quite do both for £200 but the difference is incredible. Ask if you need any further help.

90,000 miles on the clock btw.

Dick
 
Oh FFS.......... Did anyone read my first post in this thread :blast

I acknowledge that the existing system is reliable so no need for a return to points and condenser

Looking to spend a SMALL sum on making the bike run better not the £1k for a full conversion

SO LET'S HEAR FROM YOU. WHY IS THIS NOT GOING TO WORK? WHAT NEEDS TO BE LOOKED OUT FOR?


:hide

Try it. Dont rely on the folk here to give you advice on innovative ideas. Fair enough ... they are experts on sat navs, and advice on all sorts of things from divorces to iphones ..... but you are speaking of carburettors. Half of them would have had to google the word to find out that they are not Japanese fighting swords or a pair of twin-stars in a far-off galaxy.

Modern thought....
Nothing old can be as good as something new .... except maybe a mars bar or cremola foam, so a thing with such an old fashioned complicated name like a carburettor must be shite. Its the law I'm afraid.

So, fit your carb (remember to tickle it before starting) and surprise them with your new-found performance. Nobody will believe you ... but its worth a try. :)
 
Oh FFS.......... Did anyone read my first post in this thread :blast

I acknowledge that the existing system is reliable so no need for a return to points and condenser

Looking to spend a SMALL sum on making the bike run better not the £1k for a full conversion

SO LET'S HEAR FROM YOU. WHY IS THIS NOT GOING TO WORK? WHAT NEEDS TO BE LOOKED OUT FOR?

:hide

You're opening yourself up for a long and ultimately probably expensive journey into the unknown.

YES, it can be done, it HAS been done......do a bit of Googling or a good search on Advrider and you'll find all the info.

On the other hand, you could spend two hours reading the threads on how to tune and tweak your TBs, TPS and so on, then go and do it and solve any problems you may have with surging or poor running :nenau

You'll need 4 or 5 tools, a bit of bent wire and 12 feet of tubing, plus a few other odds and sods.

Once you've done it, you'll halve the time it takes you the next time, and half that the third time.

You'll also have it running far better than nearly any dealer will achieve.

There are many cheap and common mods for GSs that you'll see around.....a carb conversion isn't one of them, and there's a very good reason for that :thumb2
 
I know this is pointless, but:

I feel like replying anyway.
A non V-V carburettor can only provide good mixture control over a relatively small proportion of it's range. It is a design feature. Fit small chokes, and it works well at the bottom end, but has no top end. fit larger chokes, and it is brilliant at the top end and appalling at the bottom end.

A V.V. carburettor works much better throughout it's range, but does not have the instantaneous response of a carburettor with an enrichment pump, and it also limits the absolute performance of the engine by it's design, vis a vis non V.V. or fuel injection.

Fuel injection, if properly mapped, works much better than either type of carburettor, with maximum possible torque and driveability at all points in the rev range combined with normally much better fuel consumption because of the better atomisation provided.

However, manufacturers have to meet emissions regulations, and so the fuel injection map is tweaked to provide minimum emissions.
This results in some bikes having strange characteristics at some points in the rev range.

If you really wish to improve the rideability it would be far easier to fit a programmable ECU rather than carburettors. This is far a less time and money absorbing path than retrofitting old, worn out equipment, and provides much better results.

There: I told you it was pointless replying, but now you know, even if you do not wish to.

Myke
 
If I read the original post correctly, you suggest having the left cylinder fuel injected and the right cylinder carburetted? (Or the other way round if I've forgotten which side the TPS is on.)

I'd be very surprised if you can get the same throttle response from each side across the rev range and various throttle openings, from one twistgrip. I think you should give it a try. Sounds like crazy fun.
 
If I read the original post correctly, you suggest having the left cylinder fuel injected and the right cylinder carburetted? (Or the other way round if I've forgotten which side the TPS is on.)

I'd be very surprised if you can get the same throttle response from each side across the rev range and various throttle openings, from one twistgrip. I think you should give it a try. Sounds like crazy fun.

That's exactly what I had in mind (its the LHS that has the TPS) By using only one carb and keeping all the original ignition the cost will be small. I agree that the balancing could be tricky but then again the new Honda 700 that lots of folk rave about has both its cylinders set up completely differently with different valve timings etc. And that runs well enough.

Keep the thoughts coming
 
Keep the thoughts coming

Maybe you could lay your hands on an old SU carb (can you scavenge one off a rusted out Morris Marina, or are they now classic cars?) A manifold to feed both cylinders can't be that difficult. Cut up the hose from the hoover, and buy your wife a bunch of flowers to make things right. Unless you're single, in which case the hoover is no loss. One throttle cable operates the new carb. The other operates the existing TPS so you get sparks when needed. Doesn't matter where the left throttle body relocates to, if you've got some duct tape left after making the inlet manifold maybe it'll fasten to the rear footpeg hanger. Should be great. Marinas were mint cars. Or was that just the 1800 TC? Bugger...

OK, I've been drinking. In my defence, it's 10:45pm down here. And this Mac's Hop Rocker is a fine brew.

P.S. Hang out for an automatic choke. They were shit hot in the '70s, just twist the throttle twice on cold mornings before you push the button.
 
Maybe you could lay your hands on an old SU carb (can you scavenge one off a rusted out Morris Marina, or are they now classic cars?) A manifold to feed both cylinders can't be that difficult. Cut up the hose from the hoover, and buy your wife a bunch of flowers to make things right. Unless you're single, in which case the hoover is no loss. One throttle cable operates the new carb. The other operates the existing TPS so you get sparks when needed. Doesn't matter where the left throttle body relocates to, if you've got some duct tape left after making the inlet manifold maybe it'll fasten to the rear footpeg hanger. Should be great. Marinas were mint cars. Or was that just the 1800 TC? Bugger...

OK, I've been drinking. In my defence, it's 10:45pm down here. And this Mac's Hop Rocker is a fine brew.

P.S. Hang out for an automatic choke. They were shit hot in the '70s, just twist the throttle twice on cold mornings before you push the button.

I would have thought that an HS2 (maybe an HS4) hanging off each of the 1100's pots is the way to go. Throttle cables already in place; just alter the fuel so that it's gravity fed and sort out the best needles and the job's a good 'un.

However, I can't really see the point ....

:rolleyes:
 
I would have thought that an HS2 (maybe an HS4) hanging off each of the 1100's pots is the way to go. Throttle cables already in place; just alter the fuel so that it's gravity fed and sort out the best needles and the job's a good 'un.

However, I can't really see the point ....

:rolleyes:

Sounds OK for the fuelling, but how are you going to get sparks if the Motronic doesn't have a full set of inputs? Semi-floating points plate in place of the hall sensors, and re-purpose the fast idle lever as a manual ignition advance/retard? Not ideal, but has that retro vibe...
 
That's exactly what I had in mind (its the LHS that has the TPS) By using only one carb and keeping all the original ignition the cost will be small. I agree that the balancing could be tricky but then again the new Honda 700 that lots of folk rave about has both its cylinders set up completely differently with different valve timings etc. And that runs well enough.

Keep the thoughts coming


One carb and fuel injected throttle body.

I'm 10000% sure it'd be impossible to match the fuelling between the two throughout the rev range.
 


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