Changing an 1150 gearbox...pitfalls?

Doug

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The gearbox on my 1150 is not so good so I have bought one from Sherlocks, unfortunately after buying it I've been left with no money for fitting it, and even If I did I couldn't get it fitted for about 4 weeks and I'd like to go to the hograost (I've been to the last six) so I'm going to have to do it myself. I've have no idea where to start but I'm not a mechanical numpty (says he!)

If anybody has experience of the procedure or anything to look out for that they would like to share with me I'd be really grateful. The clutch is reasonably new so there's no need to replace it.
 
I've got a Haynes manual for the 1150; you can borrow it if you want? :thumb2
 
That would help Taff could you post it, I'll refund you with a beer at the Hograost
 
but I'm not a mechanical numpty (says he!)

That quote is from the bloke who I helped get the engine out of a 3ltr Ford Granada automatic. Upon manhandling the the engine out of the engine bay and balancing it on the slamrail of the car no mean feat without mechanical aids, it had to weigh well over 2cwt, he says I'll take the head off it now we've got out:blast

So you see what I'm up against helping him, so a really heartfelt plea before we start are there any major pitfalls we need to be aware of it'll be a case of the blind leading the blind.
 
I removed the gearbox from my bike at the start of the year to lube the splines on the driveshaft. I had never done this before but I just followed the steps from the factory manual, I printed out the pages I needed and as I did the work I highlighted each step as I did it. Nothing hard really just be methodic in your approach and dont rush. The best advice I can give is to take lots of photos of all the little cable clips/ties etc and the routing of any wires and hoses, the big bit`s aren`t a problem but when your faced with a bunch of wires and you cant remember where they came from or what they were fastened to its a bit daunting! Make up some slider pins from 8mm bolts with the heads cut off and screw these into the engine when you remove the bolts holding the gearbox on, that way when you pull the gearbox from the engine the clutch pushrod dosen`t get bent.

Do a google search for the factory manual there are a few places to download one, a certain Mr carl salter may be able to help :augie
 
I removed the gearbox from my bike at the start of the year to lube the splines on the driveshaft. I had never done this before but I just followed the steps from the factory manual, I printed out the pages I needed and as I did the work I highlighted each step as I did it. Nothing hard really just be methodic in your approach and dont rush. The best advice I can give is to take lots of photos of all the little cable clips/ties etc and the routing of any wires and hoses, the big bit`s aren`t a problem but when your faced with a bunch of wires and you cant remember where they came from or what they were fastened to its a bit daunting! Make up some slider pins from 8mm bolts with the heads cut off and screw these into the engine when you remove the bolts holding the gearbox on, that way when you pull the gearbox from the engine the clutch pushrod dosen`t get bent.

Do a google search for the factory manual there are a few places to download one, a certain Mr carl salter may be able to help :augie

Thanks, I'll do the photo thing.
Carl salter is playing hard to get, I've tried loads of times but can't get passed the verification code.
 
That would help Taff could you post it, I'll refund you with a beer at the Hograost
I've just realised I can't PM you as my subs are due. :blush

Get Dickieboy to text me your address and I'll try and post it tomorrow. :thumb2
 
Remember when you tilt the rear frame to first undo the two 6mm nuts at the bottom of the airbox or you will destroy the two rubber bobbins mounted on the top of the gearbox that the airbox fit onto .. GUESS HOW I KNOW ?
 
Good. Now don't feckin lose it. :D

Is it any help to you?

Yep it's a big help. I've photocopied the pages I think I'll need but I'll hang on to it over the weekend just in case.

I'll put it somewhere safe:D
 
Remember when you tilt the rear frame to first undo the two 6mm nuts at the bottom of the airbox or you will destroy the two rubber bobbins mounted on the top of the gearbox that the airbox fit onto .. GUESS HOW I KNOW ?

As long as it's in the instructions:D
 
I was in the same position a while back, I forgot the manual I have on USB so just went at in a logical sequence. I'm not very mechanically minded but found it pretty easy but time consuming.

The longest part by far for me was getting the drive shaft back together after I separated it taking it off the gear box - something I would be at pains to not do again, even though I mastered the art of re-assembling the shaft! My own advise would be to just take your time, use the manual carefully and do take pics / identify hoses/wires etc with masking tape with their names on.

Oh, and if it helps, you can just get the fuse box lid on if you forget to do it before lowering the subframe back down....apparently!:blast
 
All back together and after a test run everything is in order, the box which I bought off James Sherlock is excellent, much slicker and quieter than the previous one ever was (quiet and slick isn't something you'd normally say about a 1150 gearbox:D) As posted above by Adam it was a bit of a struggle to get the shaft back on the box, and I did spend a while wondering why the frame wouldn't lift because I assumed it pivoted on the Allen bolts and not the bolts above them, Dickieboy spotted that, we did it two days and without his help I would never had done it.
When winter comes and I've got more time I'm probably going to do it again because my original one was black and this one is silver, sell the silver one to finance the rebuild of the black one, and do it all again:D
Thanks for the helpful replies:thumb2
 


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