Changing your own tyres

[LiquidLAN]

Hey guys, had a mixed day, three hours of lovely riding around Salisbury Plains and three + hours trying to fix a puncture... well just swapped the tube out but sadly I'm going to have to take it all apart and do it again as I cant get to the fecking value

Any tips on self fitting/repairing tyres or should I just take it to a garage?

It's the first time I've ever done this on anything but a pushbike, but all I seem to have acheived is scratched rims and a badly fitting inner tube

 

[Hew]

Have a look at some of the video in this link
http://motocross.transworld.net/category/how-to/?tab=current&offset=8

 

[Magwych]

Try one of these next time; pass the wire through rim valve hole, then screw the end into your valve. For tyre fitting push the inner tube up into the tyre, and pull on the handle to pull the valve through, when you want to.

 

[LiquidLAN]

Cheers guys, isn't it just annoying how easy some people make these things look found another link with some guys changing sports bike tyres like it was nothing

that valve puller looks like a neat tools

 

[Magwych]

First time I changed my own tyres the neighbourhood learnt some new vocabulary and phrases. It is nothing like those videos. Now, so long as it isn't raining or below 0C I can change a tyre quicker than throwing it in the back of he car and taking to a professional. Once you get the hang of it it really is quite easy and satisfying; just don't skimp on the lube.

 

[Losttheplot]

I find the easiest way of not loosing the valve, is to partially inflate the new tube and push it up inside the well of the tyre to be fitted.

The roll the tyre so that the valve is down at the 6 o'clock postion, apply WD40 to the beads on the tyre (makes life much easier ), then take the wheel and push it down onto the valve, ensuring that you spread the beads so that the rim can drop between the two, and that the valve pokes out of the hole.

then put the little nut on the valve and proceed to push the rim down into the tyre, you should be able to get the rim back inside the whole tyre, so that it just needs centralising again and a couple of minutes with tyre levers to pop the beads back over the rim.

Also have a look on youtube...theres supposed to be a few demonstrations on there as to how to do it.

HTH

nathan

 

[LiquidLAN]

Cheers Lost, that make sense - it's almost what I have done - except having got it all together I decided it wasnt out far enough and tried to swap the thump grip nut for a proper nut and lost the valve inside the tyre

You're right about lube CB, that's definately whereI went wrong the first time - well... you just dont have to do that kind of thing with pushbike tyres but it does explain why it was never going to get back on

 

[(RIP) maverick]

If you have the correct tools/toys it helps a bit mate.

Valve Puller

drc-air-valve-puller

Proper tyre levers with the little lip which will prevent you from nipping the tube, had mine the last 4 years and they are really worth the £7.50 a piece

The one at the top of the picture, think they called pro tyre levers (get three of them)

Rim savers (couple of these, I do find the sometimes more hassle than worth but prevents those nasty scratches)

Racespec.co.uk do the above stuff fairly priced. The rest is just practice mate!

 

[LiquidLAN]

Guys...

Many thanks for all the help on this one! I'm feeling a bit chuffed with myself!

Popped over to Richard Stevens of Devizes this morning with a view to either getting him to refit the tyre or buying a load of bits and having another shot at it myself...

40+ quid later and I was walking away with a new set of tyre irons - slimmer than the ones I had (of unknown origin but they've been in my toolkit for years) two new rimlocks and assorted bits.

Well I've built a rig, something like the american guys from Dunlop and I've changed the front tyre out again so I could replace the rimlock as it was looking a bit past its best (broken in two...), I've worked out what caused the originial puncture (someone had put the previous tube in wrong and let the washer drop into the tyre) and I've removed and refitted the rear tyre because I realised they'd done the same thing there and I wanted to preempt the next puncture

all done and dusted - not sure I can do it quicker than the trip to a dealer, but I can do it

 

[alimey4u2]

To add to the excellent advice...

If the tyre is to be replaced, I use an Xacto knife or hacksaw blade to cut it around the circumference. It will just peel off ( in two pieces) by hand with washing up liquid ( yup without levers) using these to break the beads. http://www.irwin.com/irwin/consumer/jhtml/detail.jhtml?prodId=IrwinProd300003
I pop the new tyres lip/rim on with washing up liquid on the rim ( still no tyre levers.) Then with the clamps (you need two, three would be better, see link above) to squeeze the tyre beads deep into the wheel well. I use protectors ( see previous posts) & gently lever the rest of the lip over.
I don't trust my expensive rims with "some" of the tyre jockeys that are out there....
Need a good pump to seat the beads if it's tubeless, gotta be high volume. Trip down to your local tyre place & slip the kid a few quid for a beer normally gets it done...

 

[ChubbyThumper]

I find the easiest way of not loosing the valve, is to partially inflate the new tube and push it up inside the well of the tyre to be fitted.

The roll the tyre so that the valve is down at the 6 o'clock postion, apply WD40 to the beads on the tyre (makes life much easier ), then take the wheel and push it down onto the valve, ensuring that you spread the beads so that the rim can drop between the two, and that the valve pokes out of the hole.

then put the little nut on the valve and proceed to push the rim down into the tyre, you should be able to get the rim back inside the whole tyre, so that it just needs centralising again and a couple of minutes with tyre levers to pop the beads back over the rim.

Also have a look on youtube...theres supposed to be a few demonstrations on there as to how to do it.

HTH

nathan

Have to agree with losthelot, this is the technique I use. First saw it demonstrated by Geraint Jones at one of his enduro schools. All except the WD40 that is, I only use water as I wouldnt want the rim to slide under heavy braking and low tyre pressure ripping the valve off. Probably ok if you have a front rimlock.

 

[Paul Young]

I had to swap both F&R tyres on my Honda this weekend & the tyre changing rig I picked up off eBay makes it easy-peasy.

I also second Maverick's recommendation of the Buzzetti tyre levers. I've got a set of three - 2 long & 1 short.

I'm not interested in changing the BM tyres, though. Tubeless tyres are just too much like hard work

 

[alimey4u2]

Tubeless tyres are just too much like hard work

Until you get a flat at speed, nay a front flat....

 

[WorkyTicket]

Do you have to get them balanced (The wheels that is) once you've done this like on a car?

I'd like to do my own replacement tyres (the rear is desperate at the moment I've got 7K out of the TKC80 and it's in need of replacement) not to save money as such just because it'd be nice to know I can in case I ever go on a proper trip into less civilised parts.

 

[alimey4u2]

I balance mine, don't forget the painted dot on the side of the tyre is the lightest point & should be placed where the air valve is... There was a thread on this a while back & some people say they don't balance...

 

[alimey4u2]

Bought this balancer tool on e-bay & it serves double duty as a pit stand also...It was actually quite inexpensive & is of good quality too.

 

[WorkyTicket]

Bought this balancer tool on e-bay & it serves double duty as a pit stand also...It was actually quite inexpensive & is of good quality too.

Yes but if for example you were in the middle of Mongolia and had a spare tyre with you and then replaced your knackered rear tyre with it, would you also try to balance it? Surely (I might be wrong, you might be Charlie and have a support crew) you wouldn't carry this bit of kit with you, non?

 

[alimey4u2]

Yes but if for example you were in the middle of Mongolia and had a spare tyre with you and then replaced your knackered rear tyre with it, would you also try to balance it? Surely (I might be wrong, you might be Charlie and have a support crew) you wouldn't carry this bit of kit with you, non?

Non..Obviously I would carry only the bare essentials. I can show you how to balance using only a piece of string if you wish..carry dental floss ?

 

[WorkyTicket]

Non..Obviously I would carry only the bare essentials. I can show you how to balance using only a piece of string if you wish..carry dental floss ?

Are you serious or I'm I going to look like a gulable (sp?) newbie..because logic dictates that that is possible (I think) and frankly I'll probably worship you like a god if it is true. Are you going to Llangollen?

 

[LiquidLAN]

Apparently a lot of modern tyres are so well made that they dont need balancing if you line them up correctly.

I've not bothered balancing the tyres I've just changed on the 450 - the way I figure it, unless they are really badly made I'm not likely to be going quick enough for it to make any odds.

So in answer to your question, change it, line it up correctly and hope for the best... that rig looks great, but it ain't going to work for a BM 1200 or 1150 rear wheel - neither the 1100 I think for that matter I shouldnt think you'll find too many places in Mongolia with the kit to do it...