Charging failure.

[Martin.]

Halfway to work this morning and charge light comes on. And it`s raining. The light does not show when the ignition is on prior to starting.
I`m guessing this is a regulator problem, but is there anything else I should look for?
Also, while I`m at it, are there any worthwhile up-grades or modifications I could carry out?

Thanks in advance!

 

[(RIP) Bin Ridin]

Sounds like open circuit in rotor circuit, either due brush problem or rotor winding itself. I had this on the r100, needed new rotor.

 

[cookie]

if the light comes on, the rotor can't be open circuit as it's powered through the winding.

suspect the diode board. it's usually one or the other IME.

edit: i suppose the rotor could be o/c at low revs and complete the circuit at high revs, but it seems far fetched to me.

 

[(RIP) Bin Ridin]

What happened?

Did you figger it out?

 

[Martin.]

No, not really. Been stuck at work, but I`ve ordered a diode pack from motorworks to start with. If that does`nt help I`ll move onto the rotor etc.
Do like the idea of their up-grade kit, despite the price.
I`ll keep you posted. Got a few days off now.

 

[(RIP) Bin Ridin]

Not to tell you anything you probably know....

Disconnect the battery earth before removing front cover.

Lift brushes and with continuity meter, check circuit between slip rings is continuous. That is what stopped mine charging, open circuit in the rotor winding somewhere.

Somewhere, there is a charging system checklist, somewhere...

Bin

 

[(RIP) Bin Ridin]

Charging System Troubleshooting links...

http://www.largiader.com/articles/charging/

http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/trbleshootALT.htm

Troubleshooting a dead GEN lamp:

Because a common problem is a GEN lamp that does not illuminate at all, this troubleshooting section is first.


The problem may not be a bad bulb. The GEN lamp SELDOM burns out. More often it is the rotor that has opened, or connection where the lamp fits, occasionally the VR, and sometimes worn brushes. You can easily test the rotor without any instruments.
As a double check: Turn on Ignition....GEN lamp should still be out.
Disconnect battery (removing all the wires to the negative post will do).
Remove front cover.
Reconnect battery.
Turn on ignition. GEN lamp should still be out.
Pull off the wire/connector going to the brush holder male spade that is marked as Df.
Df is the place the lamp and VR both apply the initializing current (and, after the alternator produces current, where the alternator self-energizes).
Stick a bent paper clip into the wire/connector, and ground the clip to the case. The lamp should light up. If you do not have a paper clip, UNplug the associated wire, which is the D- female spade connection, and plug that Df wire into the D- female. D- is ground. If the lamp lights up when grounded, and not when to the Df terminal, then the rotor is open, or the brush(s) not making contact. If the lamp does not light up when grounded, it is the lamp, or the wiring or pod connector or the VR.
To further test for the lamp circuit condition, and eliminate the VR as the problem:
Turn off the ignition.
Pull fuel tank.
UNplug the VR.
Turn on the ignition.
Ground the solid BLUE female connection wire in the voltage regulator's harness socket.
If the lamp does not light up, the wiring from the VR to the pod or its large rear plug, or internal wiring or lamp or lamp connection in the pod is at fault.

Do NOT forget to disconnect the battery before replacing the front cover.

 

[Martin.]

Blimey, thanks for that. Proper information! The new diode back didn't sort the problem, just changed the charge light characteristics a bit.
So I`ve ordered the 450w up-grade from Motorworks and increased the overdraft accordingly.
Trouble , I`m stuck at work for 48hrs till Thursday and off to Holland Friday night, so times running out.
Luckily a mate is a Auto -electrician so I can drop it all in to him and walk to work.
I`ll let you know when he identifies the original problem.
Thanks again for your time and trouble. Stuff like that does make life a bit easier!

 

[(RIP) Bin Ridin]

Just a bit of cut and paste, be interested to hear what is wrong in the end...

Bin

 

[Martin.]

All new charging system fitted now. Pretty straight forward actually. Seems to be working o.k, But.... charge light comes on at about 1000 rpm. I thought the idea was to keep charging well at low revs?
Or, is 1000rpm too slow for tick over anyway?

 

[Kenny]

That's spot on for charging ... and OK for tick over

 

[Martin.]

Yeah, I do like my 1000rpm, but I`ve had to turn it up to about 1200rpm to extinguish the charge light now the new alternator is fitted.
Seems o.k otherwise.

 

[DrFarkoff]

Nope Turn it back down to 1000 ish rpm remember to do a good 15 minute run to get the engine properly warmed up and then do the carb set up

It only means you aren't charging at tickover You'll burn more fuel for nothing and run hotter in traffic at the higher setting

The 450Watt unit will soon recover any lost charge

Yeah, I do like my 1000rpm, but I`ve had to turn it up to about 1200rpm to extinguish the charge light now the new alternator is fitted.
Seems o.k otherwise.

 

[Martin.]

O.K. I`ll take your advice.I was a little uncomfortable doing it in the first place. But, is this normal behaviour for this system?
Pondering this in Costas this morning I remember someone telling me that larger out-put wind generators (on boats) don`t start charging until the wind reaches higher speeds than sets off the lower out-put generators.
So it sort of seems right?

 

[Kenny]

Martin,

The tickover is just that, nothing to link it with charging up the battery etc. Tickover is nice at 1,000 rpm ( some like it a tad less/more etc ) but on standard system charging light flickers at about 1100 rpm. So set yours to 1000 rpm and as soon as you move off the new system will charge the battery...otherwise your engine will get very hot/use more fuel ( as Dr Farkoff states ) when you are waiting at traffic lights/road hold ups etc

 

[cookie]

Don't be fooled into thinking that there's any significant charging of the battery just 'cos the charge lamp's gone out.

From playing around with a multi meter and looking at the voltage rise on a standard system, I'd say charging starts around 2000rpm and if the lights are on, it's nearer 3000.

 

[Martin.]

Thanks Gents. I`ve backed it back(?) to 1000rpm. Lights on, but I suppose it`s never left at tick-over for long anyway.
I was just a bit worried that something was amiss.

 

[Martin.]

So anyway.... New charging system all working splendidly.1,000 miles out to Holland n Belgium with no problems. Charge light shows at tick-over (1,000ish) rpm, but don`t really do much ticking over.
Wind turbine fitting might have been handy though.
Thanks again for all the help and advice.