Checking valve clearances etc
- Thread starter Andy_E
- Start date
Valve cover for a start, as for clearances , you need a manual.
Check valves at TDC so your cams arnt pressing down on the valves.
This is the basic check for any bike.
I cant tell you if you can remove the valve cover in the frame, but id say you could...
Ill leave this open to a G450X owner
ugg
Got the service manual (well RepROM) so have all the specs etc. The reason for asking is that the service procedure starts with 'Remove engine' 
The valve clearance check procedure starts with remove the cover, but there's no clue as to what needs removing to get that far. I presume the airbox might need to come out. Anyway I'll see what others say.
The valve clearance check procedure starts with remove the cover, but there's no clue as to what needs removing to get that far. I presume the airbox might need to come out. Anyway I'll see what others say.Brommer
Registered user
the manual says to remove the radiator, but i understand from other people that only the top has to be loose and you can tilt it foreward.
I have neverdon it, always the machanics....
But another question...
the valves where in pecs at 10 30 and 50 hours..... now at almost 100 hours i must do it again, but.. who has actualy seen that the valves were not in place???
I have neverdon it, always the machanics....
But another question...
the valves where in pecs at 10 30 and 50 hours..... now at almost 100 hours i must do it again, but.. who has actualy seen that the valves were not in place???
ovenpaa
Registered user
Valve clearances held firm for me, from memory they barely moved at all, and yes it can be done without completely removing the radiator.
Spitfire
Registered user
Andy.....how did you get on with this? I've done 10 hrs so I'm going to take a look. Any tips/issues?
BTW how did you get the engine top dead centre? I was thinking put it in a high gear and use the back wheel ?
BTW how did you get the engine top dead centre? I was thinking put it in a high gear and use the back wheel ?
***Disclaimer*** I have no mechanical training, everything is self-taught and I take no responsibility if you try this and blow up your bike!
I did have a go at this, and also took some photos. I'll try and put together a guide if people are interested but in a nutshell:
At 73 hours all clearances were well within spec, and near the maximum. I measured the clearances to get a baseline but won't be in a hurry to repeat the process. It took me a couple of hours from start to finish, probably would be quicker second time around. Space inside the frame is very tight and I can see why the Reprom says to do this with the engine out!
1. The radiator does need to be dropped forward. Removal of the top mountings is easy - pull the e-clips and the radiator drops forward. I found I also needed to remove the 4 bolts under the headlight to allow the 'beak' section to move forward and let the radiator flop forward a little more. The bottom radiator mountings seem to be flexible enough to allow quite a bit of tilt of the radiator.
2. On dismantling I didn't disconnect all the wiring on the right hand side of the engine - for example the stuff going to the radiator and lambda probe. On reflection that was a mistake as I disconnected it to replace the rocker cover - dismantling would be easier with the wires out of the way.
3. Removal of the spark plug and ignition coil was simple although the ignition coil does need disconnecting from its lead to allow you to remove it. I just used a standard spark plug socket to remove the plug. I've a mixture of long and short ratchet extensions one of which is 'wobbly'. I definitely needed a wobbly extension to do the job although it might be easier with a short-handled ratchet.
4. Removal of the cover was simple enough. The reprom states that the gasket needs liquid gasket on it. Mine only had this on the lower part of the 'half moon' segments. These came away with a little bit of levering but be careful!
5. To get TDC I stuck the bike in top and spun the back wheel until the marks lined up. It's a bit tricky single-handed unless you've got very long arms! My dealer would not sell me the TDC locking bolt recommended in the reprom but the thing seemed steady enough.
6. Once set up clearances were easy enough to take with a metric feeler gauge. I didn't need to make any adjustments, I don't know how easy this would be with the engine in the frame.
7. Prior to replacing the cover I cleaned the sealant off the half-moon bits of gasket and the engine case. The shape of the gasket is a bit irregular so I decided to 'tack' it to the cover with a couple of spots of sealant before replacing it. I let the sealant cure overnight before carrying on. I also put a couple of spots on the half-moon cutouts before sealing it up.
8. Reassembly was the opposite of reversal! Again it was a bit tricky to get a torque wrench in to re-torque the bolts. The problem I found was the fan on the back of the radiator fouling when fastening the front 2 bolts - I wasn't happy to lean the radiator any more forward.
That's about it really. Next time I do it (which won't be for quite a while) I'll probably order a spare gasket as I'm not sure how often this one can be re-used. Relatively speaking I don't think they're that pricey.
Famous last words but the bike is running quite happily. There are no metal fragments in the oil and I'm changing the oil after every day out, and the filter at every oil change after a 10 hour interval has passed (if you get my drift).
I did have a go at this, and also took some photos. I'll try and put together a guide if people are interested but in a nutshell:
At 73 hours all clearances were well within spec, and near the maximum. I measured the clearances to get a baseline but won't be in a hurry to repeat the process. It took me a couple of hours from start to finish, probably would be quicker second time around. Space inside the frame is very tight and I can see why the Reprom says to do this with the engine out!
1. The radiator does need to be dropped forward. Removal of the top mountings is easy - pull the e-clips and the radiator drops forward. I found I also needed to remove the 4 bolts under the headlight to allow the 'beak' section to move forward and let the radiator flop forward a little more. The bottom radiator mountings seem to be flexible enough to allow quite a bit of tilt of the radiator.
2. On dismantling I didn't disconnect all the wiring on the right hand side of the engine - for example the stuff going to the radiator and lambda probe. On reflection that was a mistake as I disconnected it to replace the rocker cover - dismantling would be easier with the wires out of the way.
3. Removal of the spark plug and ignition coil was simple although the ignition coil does need disconnecting from its lead to allow you to remove it. I just used a standard spark plug socket to remove the plug. I've a mixture of long and short ratchet extensions one of which is 'wobbly'. I definitely needed a wobbly extension to do the job although it might be easier with a short-handled ratchet.
4. Removal of the cover was simple enough. The reprom states that the gasket needs liquid gasket on it. Mine only had this on the lower part of the 'half moon' segments. These came away with a little bit of levering but be careful!
5. To get TDC I stuck the bike in top and spun the back wheel until the marks lined up. It's a bit tricky single-handed unless you've got very long arms! My dealer would not sell me the TDC locking bolt recommended in the reprom but the thing seemed steady enough.
6. Once set up clearances were easy enough to take with a metric feeler gauge. I didn't need to make any adjustments, I don't know how easy this would be with the engine in the frame.
7. Prior to replacing the cover I cleaned the sealant off the half-moon bits of gasket and the engine case. The shape of the gasket is a bit irregular so I decided to 'tack' it to the cover with a couple of spots of sealant before replacing it. I let the sealant cure overnight before carrying on. I also put a couple of spots on the half-moon cutouts before sealing it up.
8. Reassembly was the opposite of reversal! Again it was a bit tricky to get a torque wrench in to re-torque the bolts. The problem I found was the fan on the back of the radiator fouling when fastening the front 2 bolts - I wasn't happy to lean the radiator any more forward.
That's about it really. Next time I do it (which won't be for quite a while) I'll probably order a spare gasket as I'm not sure how often this one can be re-used. Relatively speaking I don't think they're that pricey.
Famous last words but the bike is running quite happily. There are no metal fragments in the oil and I'm changing the oil after every day out, and the filter at every oil change after a 10 hour interval has passed (if you get my drift).
Spitfire
Registered user
Thats excellent mate....im going to give it a go tomorrow night. I'll take some pics as well. What sort of liquid gasket did you use, just that orange stuff from the motor store ?
I used Loctite 5910 because it was what I had on the shelf in the garage! I've put a few hours on the bike since and it's not leaking so I must have got it about right. As I said I just used a few spots to keep the gasket in place, the reprom doesn't really give any clues about how much to use.
I'd be interested to know how much sealant is on yours when you open it up.
I'd be interested to know how much sealant is on yours when you open it up.
Spitfire
Registered user
Did it tonight no problems, thanks for the heads up Andy it helped me plan it. I think it took me a couple of hours...that said I wasnt rushing.....I did it having a beer and listening to Pete Tong......nice way to spend an evening while wifey was out 
All in spec.....
All in spec.....
Spitfire
Registered user
Did it at 10 hours
Just did it again at 38 hours........no change
Think I will leave it until 70-80 hours now
Just did it again at 38 hours........no change
Think I will leave it until 70-80 hours now
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