Choke lever Incredibly stiff 1150GSA

[Hubs]

1150GSA, late 2002, 35000 on the clock.

The choke lever is incredibly stiff to release ( to the extent of hand off bars, pressing with a fair bit of weight), although still fine to pull on. Any ideas where I should start looking?

Thanks!

Mark

 

[davegs]

1150GSA, late 2002, 35000 on the clock.

The choke lever is incredibly stiff to release ( to the extent of hand off bars, pressing with a fair bit of weight), although still fine to pull on. Any ideas where I should start looking?

Thanks!

Mark

Don't bother with the thing I never have in87,000 miles, it only speeds up tyhe tick over and is not a choke as in with carbs.
Dave GS

 

[Timolgra]

Take it apart clean up and spray with a little silicon

 

[Hubs]

Ok, sounds simple enough on that basis!

 

[ahutcheon]

It's the wee ball bearing corroding and sticking. Dismantle, clean, lubricate. If you don't, part of the mechanism will eventually break due to the excessive force required to release. They you'll need to buy and fit a new fast idle lever assembly, which is way more hassle than cleaning and lubing the one you have.

 

[Packer]

It's the wee ball bearing corroding and sticking. Dismantle, clean, lubricate. If you don't, part of the mechanism will eventually break due to the excessive force required to release. They you'll need to buy and fit a new fast idle lever assembly, which is way more hassle than cleaning and lubing the one you have.

+1

 

[taffyflytyer]

if the fast idle is sticking on just a little will this affect the running of the bike its hunting at tick over everything else has been done apart from hall sensor ????

 

[Hubs]

It's the wee ball bearing corroding and sticking. Dismantle, clean, lubricate. If you don't, part of the mechanism will eventually break due to the excessive force required to release. They you'll need to buy and fit a new fast idle lever assembly, which is way more hassle than cleaning and lubing the one you have.

Brilliant, thanks for that, know what I'm looking for now!

 

[Hubs]

Stripped, cleaned, lubed, working sweetly now. Thanks all.

 

[Ron from BC]

Stripped, cleaned, lubed, working sweetly now. Thanks all.

So to clarify, did this dismantle and cleaning take place in the control switch area where the lever is or down below at the Bowden Box?

Thanks..

 

[Hubs]

This was all at the handlebar switch, stripping it down to access the mechanism then using wd40, some rags and a lot of movement to get it working smoothly.

 

[Nutty]

Get a 1200, they don't have chokes!

 

[Steptoe]

Get a 1200, they don't have chokes!

Of course,who needs a manually operated choke.
Why not replace an inexpensive and simple thumb operated cable and lever for two electric idle motors that need to be plugged into a laptop and be recalibrated. And which give you no option of setting the idling at a speed YOU prefer.

 

[gently-does-it]

So to clarify, did this dismantle and cleaning take place in the control switch area where the lever is or down below at the Bowden Box?

Thanks..

It's an easy job to do. I did my own about 10 days ago. I had to slide off the heated grip to gain access to the screws.
The cable that feeds the heated grip is inside the tubular metal of the handle bars. So just make sure to not pull too hard on the heated grip incase you damage that cable.

 

[Comfy Old Boots]

if the fast idle is sticking on just a little will this affect the running of the bike its hunting at tick over everything else has been done apart from hall sensor ????

Hang on, your the incredibly smug fecker from a few threads ago. Why would anyone on here bother replying to you? I'm just here to say that you shat on your own doorstep and well, need I say more

Good luck to the OP.