Clacks , Crunches, or cant get Neutral

SMB said:
My bike was one of the first to have the new push rod fitted in the UK.

Unfortunately I have not been able to put the miles on as I would have hoped, and have only covered just over 100 to 150 miles since it was fitted.

On picking up the bike, after the push rod was fitted, there was a marginal improvement but still leaving me unhappy. However as the miles go on the clutch is getting much better. If the bike had been in the condition when new as it is now I would not have complained. There still is a slight crunch when going into first, but 50% of the time it is perfect, no clutch drag at all, that is not waiting after the clutch is pulled in. First to second does show a slight clutch drag but much less than before.

Overall I would have to say that this mod is a success, and if it continues to improve I will get happier and happier.

It was a shame that the initial joy of the new bike was marred by this, but it is now fast receding. I have NO thoughts of moving away from the new GS.

SMB
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Do you have a part number?
 
SMB said:
My bike was one of the first to have the new push rod fitted in the UK.

Unfortunately I have not been able to put the miles on as I would have hoped, and have only covered just over 100 to 150 miles since it was fitted.

On picking up the bike, after the push rod was fitted, there was a marginal improvement but still leaving me unhappy. However as the miles go on the clutch is getting much better. If the bike had been in the condition when new as it is now I would not have complained. There still is a slight crunch when going into first, but 50% of the time it is perfect, no clutch drag at all, that is not waiting after the clutch is pulled in. First to second does show a slight clutch drag but much less than before.

Overall I would have to say that this mod is a success, and if it continues to improve I will get happier and happier.

It was a shame that the initial joy of the new bike was marred by this, but it is now fast receding. I have NO thoughts of moving away from the new GS.

SMB
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That's good to hear,unfortunately my dealer who has always had a good reputation denies any knowledge of any gearbox problems which I know to be untrue.
I'm not sure of their motivation behind this,but it's a shame as it does show them in their true light.

Steve
 
Engineer said:
I am sure that there maybe a few real problems out there but I bet 99% of the complaints are just that people are not used to a boxer with a wet clutch.
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IIRC this is the first boxer with a wet clutch?

So where have you gained all your experience to join the illustrious 1% that know how to use a boxer with a wet clutch?

There's guys on here that have invested a lot of hard earned wonga to own these bikes and are having a hard time coming to terms with these problems. They don't need a BMW spin-doctor telling them it's their riding skills that are at fault.

Sometimes you really talk bollox!
 
red1 said:
IIRC this is the first boxer with a wet clutch?

So where have you gained all your experience to join the illustrious 1% that know how to use a boxer with a wet clutch?

There's guys on here that have invested a lot of hard earned wonga to own these bikes and are having a hard time coming to terms with these problems. They don't need a BMW spin-doctor telling them it's their riding skills that are at fault.

Sometimes you really talk bollox!
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:beer::beer::beer:
 
red1 said:
IIRC this is the first boxer with a wet clutch?

So where have you gained all your experience to join the illustrious 1% that know how to use a boxer with a wet clutch?

There's guys on here that have invested a lot of hard earned wonga to own these bikes and are having a hard time coming to terms with these problems. They don't need a BMW spin-doctor telling them it's their riding skills that are at fault.

Sometimes you really talk bollox!
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Indeed there is a lot of bollox being spoken.

Especially from anyone thinking that there's a different technique involved in operating a wet clutch as opposed to a dry clutch. :augie
 
Tarka said:
Indeed there is a lot of bollox being spoken.

Especially from anyone thinking that there's a different technique involved in operating a wet clutch as opposed to a dry clutch. :augie
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Big difference between operating an dry 1150 clutch to a wet 1150 clutch :D
 
Just for the sake of perspective on manufacturers and errors, I was a Honda mechanic in the 1980s when the "Hurricane" (CBR 1000 and CBR 600) models came out. I can't recall now exactly what the issue was, but parts in the CBR600 clutch had to be replaced in all of them. All of them. I did so many of them, that I could do one in less than half an hour.
 
alp said:
Considering that the engine cases, which separate the clutch slave cylinder from the clutch, are an aluminium alloy and the push rod is more than likely a hardened steel rod, the engine cases will expand approx double that of the push rod for the same temp. rise. E.g if the distance from the slave cylinder to the clutch is say 10" then for every 100deg C rise in temp the engine cases will expand approx .009" more than the push rod.
I have no way of knowing the actual temp rise for the engine case and push rod when hot but even if you say the temp rise is 200 deg C, the difference is still not large at .018". But maybe this is crucial?
As a comparison, my Ducati clutch total separation is approx .08" and is perfect but has no oil to cause drag so, as .018" is 25% of the Ducati's total movement maybe it's more crucial than it seems but I would expect oil clutches to have to separate more than dry clutches to reduce oil stiction between the plates so it's not a good comparison.
If this is the case then a slightly smaller dia slave cylinder will stroke the clutch further for any given clutch lever movement and cope with this relatively small expansion differential. At the expense of a slightly heavier clutch lever pull of course.
As I mentioned before the BMW Tech at Garmisch said there was too much oil getting on the plates causing stiction drag so a greater separating movement would help this also (maybe).
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That quality of answer is why I pay my membership here. :thumb
 
:
red1 said:
IIRC this is the first boxer with a wet clutch?

So where have you gained all your experience to join the illustrious 1% that know how to use a boxer with a wet clutch?

There's guys on here that have invested a lot of hard earned wonga to own these bikes and are having a hard time coming to terms with these problems. They don't need a BMW spin-doctor telling them it's their riding skills that are at fault.

Sometimes you really talk bollox!
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BMW guy under cover!!!!!!!!!!!!+1:beer:
 
Hi All,

After the hydraulic fluid reduction we are now approx 3 weeks on and the bike though not as bad is still clacking and crunching into 2nd, 3rd and occasionally 4th.

So I rang Bahnstormer up and let them know, I also mentioned this thread, detailing what had been going on.

They were happy to take the bike in and strip the clutch as originally advised by BMW tech. Stating again that they had not heard of a problem (mine is the only one they know of).

5 mins after getting off the phone they called be back to state that had spoken to BMW and had been told the following:

BMW are aware of the problem and are awaiting replacement parts aimed at solving this issue, there is not a recall as this is affecting approx 30% of bikes, this issue will be dealt with if/when it arises on a per bike basis. Please be patient whilst the parts are manufactured and delivered. It will be weeks rather than days. In the meantime please ensure that oil remains at the right level, i.e. the dot at the centre of gallery window, as this will likely help.

I can continue to ride my bike without the worry of warranty invalidation and they will check everything is ok when they fit the new part(s).

Hope this helps.

I also hope this stops people from accusing others of being sh*t riders.....

JT

p.s. Thank you to Bradley and all at Bahnstormer.
 
jonnyp said:
My bikes has been sat for the past 4 weeks as I can't ride right now. I started it for about 2 mins last Monday and that's it.

Today I pushed it out of the garage. In neutral pushes fine, into first with the clutch in, the resistance is there but it still moves. Up on the centre stand, first gear clutch in, it does take a bit to move the rear wheel but it's no more that I expect especially cold..

Off the stand, in first, clutch in, press the button, the bike fires up and pulls forward just a little no more than an inch or to. Then with the engine running it free wheels easy, as easy as in neutral with or with out the engine running.

Engine running and back on the stand, I try the same as you Pat and unless I really, only very lightly push down or lift the lever, it goes through the grears, no problem.

I don't have too let the clutch in and out for the gears to go up or down, I pass neutral and with a light touch get that from first or second with no real problem, and as good as any other bike I've had..

I still have the first grear clunk but that seems to be coming as much from the bevel gear as the box..

Still sad to hear some are having so much trouble and I hope BM come up with a fix for you..
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Sounds pretty much the same as mine but ours were probably next to each other on the production line as we got them from the same dealer on the just about same day - I am sorry some people seem to be having so much trouble too - I would love it if BMW have a mod to lessen the first gear 'clonk' but mine only does it if the gear lever is pressed very gently all other gear changes are ok. There is a little clutch drag but nothng that s a show stopper.
 
red1 said:
BMW could have saved a fortune on parts and labour if they'd given engineer the job of training you numpties to change gear! :rolleyes:
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I love that word "numpties"! We don't have that one here in the states. :beerjug:

However, it IS possible that some of us are shit riders. :hide
 
It's a SHAM

Wet clutches especially vespa and lambretta have a similar problem I wouldn't think it was the oil more to do with the plates and steels
used to have massive problems on the scooter rally sites we would soak the plates over night and they would still drag perhaps they are using surflex plates for a PX125 sad that some of you have paid 14 k and are having these problems the dry clutches worked ok why change :beerjug:
 
Emoto said:
Do you have a part number?
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My dealer told the part no is not listed yet as the item was pending test and feedback such as the above, i was also told or my dealer was if he ordered the part no listed he would get the same/original rod that is already in my bike. Im sure all dealers will no about this updated rod regardless if they have no part no to hand.
 
DING-DONG said:
My dealer told the part no is not listed yet as the item was pending test and feedback such as the above, i was also told or my dealer was if he ordered the part no listed he would get the same/original rod that is already in my bike. Im sure all dealers will no about this updated rod regardless if they have no part no to hand.
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Thanks for the clarification. As I have the issue somewhat with mine, I naturally want to be as informed as I can when I go back to the dealer. I was pretty sure the issue was gone when I lowered the master cylinder fluid level, and said so, but after more riding, I think there is still room for improvement in the shifting. Although it is far better than it was with the overfilled master cylinder, it still is intermittently rough shifting.
 
GEARBOX ISSUES

Hi just got info from AJ, BMW have informed them that a replacement clutch assembly is on order, to replace mine , keeping fingers crossed hope it cures the gear change . neutral selection is fine on mine ,just the crap gear selection ,Will update when fitted.
 
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