Clacks , Crunches, or cant get Neutral

Titto said:
My manual is dated 02/2013 3rd edition. Quotes 4.2l with oil filter change.
Where should the oil level be then when cold?
The centre of the red circle? Or below it?
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I wouldn't worry about it - if it is right down the bottom then top it up to the top of the circle - if it appears to be over filled then tilt the bike slightly and see if you can see the level in the window, if you can then all is fine. You may need a mate to help you do this :D

P.S.
It doesn't take the bike to be much out of perfectly level for the oil to move lots in the window.
 
dave hendy said:
Just hope this will cure the problem or at least make it acceptable?
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So £15K gets you an "acceptable" gear change once the modified parts are fitted.

All those with these issues really have my sympathy, but if you are happy with "acceptable" I don't think you deserve any better.

And I lay good odds that when the next iteration shows its face at the dealers you'll all be there fighting to write out the cheque!
 
Look at your bike carefully.

Is the beak long, elegant and shapely?

If so you might have bought an 1100 by mistake. An easy mistake to make as there's almost no difference.

My 1100 clunks like a b'stard into first, between fist and second and second to third sounds like a field gun going off. Fourth to fifth is peachy smooth though (well usually...).

See - just the same :D
 
MattW said:
Look at your bike carefully.

Is the beak long, elegant and shapely?

If so you might have bought an 1100 by mistake. An easy mistake to make as there's almost no difference.

My 1100 clunks like a b'stard into first, between fist and second and second to third sounds like a field gun going off. Fourth to fifth is peachy smooth though (well usually...).

See - just the same :D
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funny that my 1150 is a slick as fuck going into first , finding neutral is easy peasy , gear changes up the box are sweet as a nut , but the down shifts can be a little clunky:pullface:pullface:pullface

but seriously guys this situation is fucking appalling , have any of you tried contacting the journo at MCN who has one long term , as he has never mentioned this issue with his:nenau

Cue the ; oh but BMW are paying him to STFU about it comments :rob:D:D:D:D
 
chad said:
...but seriously guys this situation is fucking appalling , have any of you tried contacting the journo at MCN who has one long term , as he has never mentioned this issue with his:nenau .....
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Nah .... that's probably 'cos he knows how to ride a bike ....





:hide
 
I'm on my way back home of a 4k mile trip. The shock shifting is back right after 30 min. of 120-140 mph high way riding:(

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 4
 
Out of interest I removed 250ml which has now brought the oil level to exactly half way up the circle once the engine has cooled right down.
After draining the oil I took her for a blast and noted that the up shifts were totally better. "Snicking" into gear now just as it was PRIOR to my first service.
So it makes me think that initally the box was fine with the mineral oil in but after my first service the quantity of oil may be wrong which was put into it !!!
I've ridden it for 3 days Now since draining it and its back to being brilliant.
 
Oil level.

I know that the level should be checked as per manual ie when hot. I wish to check that I do not have too much oil.

Does anybody know what the level would be (taken from the sight glass) when the engine is cold that would translate to a hot level reaching just above the mid point of the sight glass?

Cheers

SMB
 
Titto said:
Out of interest I removed 250ml which has now brought the oil level to exactly half way up the circle once the engine has cooled right down.
After draining the oil I took her for a blast and noted that the up shifts were totally better. "Snicking" into gear now just as it was PRIOR to my first service.
So it makes me think that initally the box was fine with the mineral oil in but after my first service the quantity of oil may be wrong which was put into it !!!
I've ridden it for 3 days Now since draining it and its back to being brilliant.
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I just did the same thing, that is dropped the oil level to the center of the orange ring. Then took a short loop ride of maybe 20 miles. I am reluctant to draw any conclusions on such a short ride, but it did seem to be an improvement. Will require more time and miles to be sure of it.
 
Just had a cracking ride home from work. Gearbox is still much improved.
If you are suffering with gearbox issues, get 250ml oil removed and take it for a spin after!!!
 
My dealer rang today, to say that he had one of the modified clutch push rods for my bike. Unfortunately due to work commitments wont be able to get it fitted till the 27th of this month.

However over the last two weeks the changes have started to become a lot better. Its still noisy on the whole changing from neutral into 1st, 2nd and 3rd, but the changes have become more positive and clean going into these gears. I haven't drained any oil, changed boots, re adjusted gear lever or changed my technique, its just happened.

Still going to have the modified part fitted, as if its capable of getting better its also capable of reverting back to being piss poor.

Incidently was at a KTM dealer yesterday and he reckoned that there is a major revolutionary update for the 1190 adv for 2014. Oh and he reckoned that the LC was worth £8000-8500 on a trade in. Gulp. Draw your own conclusions.
 
I think it's inherent in the design, dovetail cut dogs and wet multiplate clutch.

The mod is to open the clutch a bit further and reduce the drag isn't it?
 
Oil trap said:
Oh and he reckoned that the LC was worth £8000-8500 on a trade in. Gulp. Draw your own conclusions.
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He would do.:rob Then he'll go and sell it for £11-£12k. Hardly indicative though, is it.:rolleyes:
 
Arkwright said:
I think it's inherent in the design, dovetail cut dogs and wet multiplate clutch.

The mod is to open the clutch a bit further and reduce the drag isn't it?
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Or just to get it to work as well as the other billions of wet multiplate clutches fitted to Japanese and other motorcycles produced over the last 50 years.

Damn this new technology!!!
 
red1 said:
So £15K gets you an "acceptable" gear change once the modified parts are fitted.

All those with these issues really have my sympathy, but if you are happy with "acceptable" I don't think you deserve any better.

And I lay good odds that when the next iteration shows its face at the dealers you'll all be there fighting to write out the cheque!
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I will have another if it is a good at this one, apart from the clonk into first which I don't like there is nothing to complain about after doing 8,500 miles since 2nd March :D time will tell how reliable it is but at current rate of about 1,000 miles a month I should throw up any serious issues by the time I come to trade it in after 3 years.

yours.... a very happy bunny :D
 
red1 said:
Or just to get it to work as well as the other billions of wet multiplate clutches fitted to Japanese and other motorcycles produced over the last 50 years.

Damn this new technology!!!
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I have a f800gs as a loan bike at the moment and the gear change is perfect so why can they get it right on a much cheaper bike and then fail miserably on such a premium well developed £14000 bike.

Shite gear change for the last 7600miles and counting, hopefully the new push rod will help.:nenau
 
shortywilliam said:
I have a f800gs as a loan bike at the moment and the gear change is perfect so why can they get it right on a much cheaper bike and then fail miserably on such a premium well developed £14000 bike.

Shite gear change for the last 7600miles and counting, hopefully the new push rod will help.:nenau
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Because Rotax make the 800 motor & BMW make the 1200 motors

Does that answer your question?
 
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