Cleaning heated grips switch

AdrianS

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2002 R1150R

Now the weather is getting colder, its time to use the heated grips.
I switched mine on yesterday and they both only got luke warm even on the maximum setting.
I thought I would start by cleaning the switch. Having not removed it before is there anything I need to be aware of or does it come apart easily without bits flying all over the place?!
Any other suggestions gratefully received

Cheers,

Adrian
 
FWIW. Used mine today in anger for the first time. Sometimes they seemed very hot then at other times a little cool. Maybe they are faulty but I don't think so.
 
Used mine on the way to work on GS one cold morning couple of weeks back and they appeared to be okay, tho rarely ever used them on the 'hot setting' other than to dry the grips when its been standing in the rain!
nb. This is all a thing of the past, I hope, as I have now fitted a pair of the famous Tucano Muffs which I shall soon be using in ernest.
 
Still very Luke warm after half an hour!
How does the switch come apart?
 
Used mine on the way to work on GS one cold morning couple of weeks back and they appeared to be okay, tho rarely ever used them on the 'hot setting' other than to dry the grips when its been standing in the rain!
nb. This is all a thing of the past, I hope, as I have now fitted a pair of the famous Tucano Muffs which I shall soon be using in ernest.

Do you think it will be back on the road before the spring!
 
on mines on hot one grip goes roasty and the onther is only warm not looked into it yet (renewed the switch last year as it was feked) had the problem since i had the the bike last year
 
Used mine on the way to work on GS one cold morning couple of weeks back and they appeared to be okay, tho rarely ever used them on the 'hot setting' other than to dry the grips when its been standing in the rain!
nb. This is all a thing of the past, I hope, as I have now fitted a pair of the famous Tucano Muffs which I shall soon be using in ernest.

I've used Tucano muffs for years. I experienced problems with the heated grips on my first GS with no muffs on, and i reckon the winter weather gets in and fooks em up. The last two GS's, running muffs pretty much all year round, have never had a problem.:D
 
The grips and wiring are pretty simple.

The switch has a resister fitted so it will either put a high or low voltage through the grips dependant on the position.

The grips are a coil of wire, the current needs to flow through the grips un hindered to enable the grip to function. You will need to remove the tank to check them properly, to expose the small white multi plug under the tank up by the headstock.

Unplug one side and using a decent multimeter check the resistance through the grip. I cannot remember what it should be but you can do a comparison with the other side, if they are roughly the same its either OK or both grips are gefurked. From memory there should be approx 120 ohms, if you have over 1k or infinity then they are open circuit or there is a high resistance that needs to be checked.

Usually its the L/H one that fails, as its the one you can take youre hand off (you dont normally take your hand off the throttle side!) and shake when the old cramp sets in! This causes the grip to cool down, then have to heat up again, this will shorten the life of the grip.


Hope this helps.
 
The grips and wiring are pretty simple.

The switch has a resister fitted so it will either put a high or low voltage through the grips dependant on the position.

The grips are a coil of wire, the current needs to flow through the grips un hindered to enable the grip to function. You will need to remove the tank to check them properly, to expose the small white multi plug under the tank up by the headstock.

Unplug one side and using a decent multimeter check the resistance through the grip. I cannot remember what it should be but you can do a comparison with the other side, if they are roughly the same its either OK or both grips are gefurked. From memory there should be approx 120 ohms, if you have over 1k or infinity then they are open circuit or there is a high resistance that needs to be checked.

Usually its the L/H one that fails, as its the one you can take youre hand off (you dont normally take your hand off the throttle side!) and shake when the old cramp sets in! This causes the grip to cool down, then have to heat up again, this will shorten the life of the grip.


Hope this helps.


good info there and yes its the left that runs cool on mines
 
good info there and yes its the left that runs cool on mines

I've heard the suggestion that the left runs cooler than the right because the throttle is better insulated from the cold handlebar inside the grip. Possibly not that convincing given the left grip has a plastic core? Also had it suggested that the left grip gets more wear and tear when the bike is put on the main stand :nenau
 
The grips and wiring are pretty simple.

The switch has a resister fitted so it will either put a high or low voltage through the grips dependant on the position.

The grips are a coil of wire, the current needs to flow through the grips un hindered to enable the grip to function. You will need to remove the tank to check them properly, to expose the small white multi plug under the tank up by the headstock.

Unplug one side and using a decent multimeter check the resistance through the grip. I cannot remember what it should be but you can do a comparison with the other side, if they are roughly the same its either OK or both grips are gefurked. From memory there should be approx 120 ohms, if you have over 1k or infinity then they are open circuit or there is a high resistance that needs to be checked.

Usually its the L/H one that fails, as its the one you can take youre hand off (you dont normally take your hand off the throttle side!) and shake when the old cramp sets in! This causes the grip to cool down, then have to heat up again, this will shorten the life of the grip.


Hope this helps.


Was thinking of something else when i did this....

The correct resistance reading for a working grip should be 9-12 Ohms.
 


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