cleaning tips, BUT BE CAREFUL

  • Thread starter Thread starter carrickleagh
  • Start date Start date

carrickleagh

Guest
Experience gained from my laboratory and methyl ester (biodiesel)business has taught me how to clean up metal parts which would otherwise require hours of elbow grease.
Be warned, always try this on a wee bit first, disclaimers and and all that.

WELDERS PICKLING PASTE is an acid jelly like stuff I have used to prepare steel parts prior to welding. This can sometimes be effective to lift the brown rust like staining from exhaust pipes. Advantage over liquid cleaners is it will not run to unwanted areas and is very easy to wash off with water. NOT FOR ALUMINIUM CASINGS unless they are well and truely oxidised beyond normal washing.

BRASS BRISTLE wheel for drill will shine up nuts n bolts and will not leave scratches as it is softer than steel. Most retailers will try and sell you a brass coated brush but this IS NO GOOD, and a shiny end to bristles will indicate this is a steel brush coated. Make certain ends of bristles are same colour as brass. Shoe shops also have suede cleaning brushes which are true brass, though this takes you back to elbow grease again.

BATHROOM MOUSSE CLEANER is a much cheaper alternative to foaming cleaners, though I wouldn't recommend it for plastic painted parts unless you test a bit first. It is usually alkaline, so should not be left on aluminium too long.

BIODIESEL can be used as an alternative degreaser and at £1/ litre is much cheaper. You will still have to wash the diesel off with hot soapy water but is environmentally much friendlier than other cleaners. If you have a local manufacturer you could also ask him for a few litres of his glycerol byproduct as an effective soap. Beware though, he may have methanol in it and this is very corrosive.

SODIUM HYPOCHLORITE is readily available at most chemical suppliers and a 25 litre drum is a couple of pounds. This is basically 5 times more concentrated than household bleach. Brushed on to driveways and washed away without the laborious tedium of a power washer it will lift all that green staining, and is no more hostile to water treatment works once diluted than the stuff you put down the tiolet. Patio cleaners are caustic sodium hydroxide based and these are much harsher.

PHOSPHORIC ACID is what shop branded alloy cleaners are based on. Again chemical suppliers will do 25 l drums, just dilute and use away.
DANGER it goes without saying handling industrial strength chemicals requires a careful approach, gloves, glasses etc and NEVER EVER MIX CHEMICALS UNLESS YOU KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING. ALLOY CLEANING PHOSPHORIC ACID AND SODIUM HYPOCHLORITE (bleach) FOR EXAMPLE WHEN MIXED TOGETHER WILL PRODUCE POISONOUS CHLORINE GAS.
hope this may be of use to some
 
Experience gained from my laboratory....


DANGER it goes without saying handling industrial strength chemicals requires a careful approach, gloves, glasses etc and NEVER EVER MIX CHEMICALS UNLESS YOU KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING. ALLOY CLEANING PHOSPHORIC ACID AND SODIUM HYPOCHLORITE (bleach) FOR EXAMPLE WHEN MIXED TOGETHER WILL PRODUCE POISONOUS CHLORINE GAS.
hope this may be of use to some

mad_scientist.gif
 
I have spaced the paragraphs in your thread there a wee bit Carrickleagh to make it easier to read.

Some interesting stuff there too. :thumb2
 
I always cleaned my chain with parafin :thumb. Much the same as bo deisel i guess. Certainly cheaper than purpose bought chain cleaners ...
 
I do not thinik it is a good idea to post this sort of information.

Unless you know exactly what you are doing then a serious risk of injury is possible.

I deal with this sort of stuff every day in a proper laboratory - not in a garage forecourt.

I have performed air surveys in workplaces where inadequate precautions are used and injuries occur mainly because the persons have not been trained in the use of chemicals.

Industrial strength chemicals are NOT the same as what you purchase in a shop.

For your info.

MSDS data for sodium hypochrite

Stability
Stable. Contact with acids releases poisonous gas ( chlorine ). Light sensitive. Incompatible with strong acids, amines, ammonia, ammonium salts, reducing agents, metals, aziridine, methanol, formic acid, phenylacetonitrile.

Toxicology
Corrosive, causes burns to skin and eyes. Harmful by ingestion, inhalation and through skin contact. Skin irritant. Degree of harm depends upon the concentration of hypochlorite. Annex I lists only the risk phrases R31 R34.
Toxicity data
(The meaning of any abbreviations which appear in this section is given here.)
ORL-MUS LD50 5800 mg kg-1
ORL-WMN TDLO 1000 mg kg-1
IVN-MAN TDLO 45 mg kg-1

Risk phrases
(The meaning of any risk phrases which appear in this section is given here.)
R20 R21 R22 R34 R41.


Transport information
(The meaning of any UN hazard codes which appear in this section is given here.)
Hazard class 8. Packing group III
Personal protection
Use in well-ventilated areas only. Protect eyes. Do not mix with acids.
Safety phrases
(The meaning of any safety phrases which appear in this section is given here.)
S1 S2 S28 S45 S50.

Not scaremongering - just giving information so people are fully aware.
 
DANGER it goes without saying handling industrial strength chemicals requires a careful approach, gloves, glasses etc and NEVER EVER MIX CHEMICALS UNLESS YOU KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING. ALLOY CLEANING PHOSPHORIC ACID AND SODIUM HYPOCHLORITE (bleach) FOR EXAMPLE WHEN MIXED TOGETHER WILL PRODUCE POISONOUS CHLORINE GAS.


Very helpful, will this get rid of stubborn ex wives:augie
 
There was a murder story in the news a year or so ago, where hubby killed his wifey, buy giving her a 'shot' of highly corrosive drain cleaner and telling her it was some fandangled knock-it-back-in-one-and-get-your-rocks-off alcho drink.
The stuff ate her alive from the inside. Hubby phoned for an ambulance stating she'd drunk it by mistake! Apparently the 999 call taker could hear her from another room screaming to death :eek:
 
Time for lunch ! Cheers!! :ChrisKelly
 
I've found oleum is excellent for cleaning engine front covers or fuming nitric if you dont like the smell. Both are also excellent dry skin remedies.:augie
 
I know it's not relevant for the GS, but i wouldn't use bio diesel to clean off an "O" ring chain... this product is well know in undiluted amounts to cause seal & O ring hardening / failure in certain fuel injection systems.
 
vinegar removes rust if you dip it in and leave it a while,,,
 
I know it's not relevant for the GS, but i wouldn't use bio diesel to clean off an "O" ring chain... this product is well know in undiluted amounts to cause seal & O ring hardening / failure in certain fuel injection systems.

only after a while if its running in it, its not staying long on a chain,,,
better to use normal stuff tho:thumb
 
apologies if risk aware members are unsettled by my post

I suppose I maybe I should not have tempted people with industrial chemical useage. My own 32 years experience of handling all manner of chemicals in a UKAS accredited laboratory working to ISO9002 Quality Systems Standards have made me assume everyone is capable of utilising these things safely. "Assume" makes an ass out of you and a fool out of me. I have no garage forecourt experience. To me it is just a matter of common sense. Advice from previous reply not to post is probably most sensible. I will not promulgate any further chemical tips (such as EDTA to bring back lead acid batteries from the dead!).
Stick to wire brushes and foaming bathroom cleaner I say, and only use chemicals which have been tested on animals. My tongue is wearing a hole in my cheek.
"what we don't know would make a library anyone would be proud of"
 
it is the methanol

I know it's not relevant for the GS, but i wouldn't use bio diesel to clean off an "O" ring chain... this product is well know in undiluted amounts to cause seal & O ring hardening / failure in certain fuel injection systems.

Don't wish to appear a pedant, but it is a common misconception that biodiesel is corrosive etc.. It is a failure of most biodiesel manufacturers to analyse for and remove the methanol part of the catalyst from the processed methyl ester fuel which renders the biodiesel harmful to seals, injectors, fuel pumps and such like. Very few producers can check for methanol, so on reflection I would not recommend biodiesel as a cleaner. Just to scare you a bit more, methanol is an active ingredient in paint stripper. Unfortunately bio gets a bad press mainly as a result of poor processing. We had vehicles with over 200,000 miles clocked up with no problems other than a few fuel filter changes at the start. It has a higher cetane value and lubricating properties, with virtually no carbon / CO2 emissions. Fuel filters only block because the bio cleans out accumulated dirt and will bind with any water in the tank to produce a jelly. Once this is gone you have no more problems.
rant over, I'm off to kill the saw flies on my gooseberries with malathion.
 
Phew!! Don't drink any of that melathion now ....... :drool
 


Back
Top Bottom