Gents, about to change the clutch on my little R45. Would any of you fine fellows have the dimensions of the clutch alignment tool please? Or even if its required?
Many thanks
Glen
Many thanks
Glen
Clutch alignment tool dimensions
- Thread starter mrfandangle
- Start date
We made one for my 1100 at the weekend. We used the inside diameter of the clutch plate hole (the one with the splines) for the main bit then turn the end 1.5 inch down to the same diameter as the end of the clutch pushrod and champfer the end to match the pushrod.
This worked well on my 1100 so the same should in theory work on any BMW.
This worked well on my 1100 so the same should in theory work on any BMW.
I usually bolt the clutch up lightly having aligned the driven plate by eye.
Then trial-fit the gearbox - the driven plate will move and it can all be aligned.
Carefully remove the gearbox and tighten the clutch a bit more (to hold the plate firmly).
Re-fit the gearbox to make sure everything is aligned.
Remove gearbox and fully tighten the 'stretch bolts' that hold the pressure plate to the flywheel.
Then re-assemble as normal.
It sounds a bit of a fankle, but its easy enough . . . I wouldn't want to do that with my Landcruiser clutch however
.
Bob.
Then trial-fit the gearbox - the driven plate will move and it can all be aligned.
Carefully remove the gearbox and tighten the clutch a bit more (to hold the plate firmly).
Re-fit the gearbox to make sure everything is aligned.
Remove gearbox and fully tighten the 'stretch bolts' that hold the pressure plate to the flywheel.
Then re-assemble as normal.
It sounds a bit of a fankle, but its easy enough . . . I wouldn't want to do that with my Landcruiser clutch however
.Bob.
Canuck
Registered user
Socket, bit of electrical tape to fit and voila.... perfect tool!
Just do the clutch bolts up enough to still allow the plate to move, loosely fit the gearbox, take it off again and do the bolts up properly. You wont get a better alignment tool. Simples
It sounds a bit of a fankle, but its easy enough . . . I wouldn't want to do that with my Landcruiser clutch however
Bob.
I remember several 'happy' hours spent with the gearbox and bell housing off my mothers Capri lying on my chest while I 'jiggled' it back into place (she was / is a clutch murderer - did one every couple of years)
Thanks for your input guys, R45 now in bits, ready for reassemby, well after some touching in n tarting up in a place or 2!! Haynes suggests removing the the front engine mounts, and sliding the engine forward. HOW WOULD YOU REMOVE THE FRONT ENGINE STUDS???? Nuts are undone.
Cant seem to move the studs at all!!
. Got gearbox out anyways, but interested.
Cant seem to move the studs at all!! . Got gearbox out anyways, but interested.
Whatever you do don't hit them with a hammer!!
Put some washers over one of the studs, put the nut back on and using a long breaker bar do it up tightly and try and pull it through a bit. Take the nut and washers off, put them on the other side and do it again. Whatever you do don't strip a thread or shear a stud off.
The last one I had that was stuck took two days of this before it came loose. Laying the bike on its side and pouring plus gas or some diesel round the stud will help, leave it to soak and then try the alternate pulling operation again.
It's worth taking studs out for anti seizing every couple of years to stop this happening.
Put some washers over one of the studs, put the nut back on and using a long breaker bar do it up tightly and try and pull it through a bit. Take the nut and washers off, put them on the other side and do it again. Whatever you do don't strip a thread or shear a stud off.
The last one I had that was stuck took two days of this before it came loose. Laying the bike on its side and pouring plus gas or some diesel round the stud will help, leave it to soak and then try the alternate pulling operation again.
It's worth taking studs out for anti seizing every couple of years to stop this happening.
I remember several 'happy' hours spent with the gearbox and bell housing off my mothers Capri lying on my chest while I 'jiggled' it back into place (she was / is a clutch murderer - did one every couple of years)
I've done that too many times
. Lying under my Volvo 240 at 01:00hrs trying to get it ready for work in the morning .I've done the Landcruiser clutch twice (wrong cover plate fitted the first time). The 60 Kilo Gearbox has a 50 Kilo Transfer Box on the back.
Bloomin' heavy when they land on your knees & chest
.(Yes I do have a transmission jack, but everything has to be lowered, twisted and wiggled to get it out
).Bob.
Bloomin' heavy when they land on your knees & chest
You should try a Ford Zephyr cast iron gearbox...Two of us laying under the car with a hand each underneath whilst fiddling the last bolts out of the top - next thing we both had a hand each pinned to the ground under a f$cking heavy gearbox...You live and learn?
What Rob says a good spray of penetrating oil I use an airgun and touch wood so far it's worked
Like he says tho be careful not to strip a thread the airgun thump thump vibes seem to help more than just pressing it out with a torque bar
Like he says tho be careful not to strip a thread the airgun thump thump vibes seem to help more than just pressing it out with a torque bar
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