Clutch DIY project.

[boxerscott]

Having read lots of threads and posts on site relating to this subject I am making progress in getting to the clutch housing.on my 1100gs It is my intention to take the final drive, swinging arm and gear box off in one unit, I am aware of the pitfalls of this method and the tricks to make it go straightforward as poss. My question is, to raise the rear frame assembly Clymer says take off the battery case (stops frame pivoting up) but says nowt about abs pump removal. Now unless i have had a brain fart does the abs11 pump have to be removed to do this?

Chris

 

[Steptoe]

does the abs11 pump have to be removed to do this?

Chris

No.

And you don't remove the battery case, just remove the two bolts at the bottom of the case as these are attached to the gearbox.

And it's standard procedure to remove the finaldrive/swingarm/gearbox in one lump. A trolley jack underneth helps if your doing it by yourself.

There are pictures in the tech section showing it being done.

 

[boxerscott]

Thanks. Ill take your word for that and will look up the post.

Chris.

 

[boxerscott]

Rear frame is now safely pivoted up. I had not removed a little hex stud that was hiding in the air filter housing. Cause of clutch failure was not excessive wear of friction plate but leakage of engine oil via crank bore main seal. Does any kind person have the tool for inserting a new seal? I would be prepared to hire it?

Chris.

 

[Steptoe]

. Does any kind person have the tool for inserting a new seal? I would be prepared to hire it?

Chris.

Coke can

 

[Pukmeister]

Coke can

Do you drink the Coke before or after.

 

[Steptoe]

Do you drink the Coke before or after.

Very important to drink it first. Then cut the end off and the can then slides perfectly over the flywheel boss, and the seal(s) then push onto and along the can into place.

 

[boxerscott]

Glad it was a drink tin you were referring to. My next question is how many seals? Clymer only shows one and that was a right barsteward to remove having been baked on to the casing for nearly 14 years. Can not imagine another tucked in any where else accessible from the rear? Does the seal need any kind of loob for insertion, I think clymer suggest using something called Triflow smeared on the end of the crank bore?