Clutch lever. Help..

[Totoro]

Sorry if this has been asked before. I did a search but could not find an answer.

My clutch engages right at the end of the clutch lever travel. Its become really hard to control smoothly especially when the bars are being turned.

Apart from this the clutch operates fine and does not slip. I've got the lever adjustment dialled in to the shortest span. If i move it to the next one out the lever pushes against the hand guard.

Any ideas? I've bled the clutch fluid and it did not make a difference.

Help. It's really beginning to bug me and my local garage have no suggestions (apart from maybe a new clutch )

 

[Colban]

Which model is it?.
Have you checked that the clutch fluid resevoir is not overfilled.
I'm told that when a clutch wears,the pushrod is forced back and pumps fluid back into the resevoir.If the resevoir is full,it wont allow the pushrod to return fully.
Alternatively,the clutch pushrod may be worn.I believe its reasonably easy to check by accessing it from behind the gearbox (remove slave cylinder and extract).

 

[Steptoe]

I've got the lever adjustment dialled in to the shortest span. If i move it to the next one out the lever pushes against the hand guard.

)

it should never touch the handguard at all, nomatter what span you set it on.

First thing i'd be looking at, is why it touches.

 

[Totoro]

Which model is it?.

It's a 2001 R1150GS

Clutch reservoir is not overfilled but I have never checked the pushrod. Is it obvious it its worn?

 

[Totoro]

First thing i'd be looking at, is why it touches.

Now you've got me worried. What are the possibilities?

I am completely in the dark with this one.

 

[beemerman]

Dont know if the 1150Gs has the same levers as the 1150R but i had a similar problem. The clutch is wearing but it can be adjusted slightly.

if you look where the lever pivots there is a small screw, undo it a little this will give a bit more free play

 

[Colban]

Just had a look at the manual.To get the pushrod out requires a fair bit of dismantling and isn't as easy as i first thought.
Can you take the LH handguard off,or loosen it so its out of the way and then try the span adjuster?.

 

[Colban]

Sorry if this has been asked before. I did a search but could not find an answer.

My clutch engages right at the end of the clutch lever travel. Its become really hard to control smoothly especially when the bars are being turned.

Apart from this the clutch operates fine and does not slip. I've got the lever adjustment dialled in to the shortest span. If i move it to the next one out the lever pushes against the hand guard.

Any ideas? I've bled the clutch fluid and it did not make a difference.

Help. It's really beginning to bug me and my local garage have no suggestions (apart from maybe a new clutch )

Had a bit of a think on this.And a look at my own 1150.
The clutch does not slip-thats good.As its hydraulic,theres no cable to stretch or adjust.I think all the hydraulic clutches engage over the last 20-25mm of lever travel.
A few questions.
Is the clutch lever the original,undamaged item?.
The span adjustment is just for hand size.ie the closer to the grip is,the sooner the clutch engages.But does it detent correctly when you adjust it?.
Putting the little wheel out of the detent position pushes the lever out a few mm.
Does the lever go into the deepest part of the handguard correctly?.
Has the guard been knocked/damaged at all?.
Ergonomics.
How tall are you?.
I m 5' 10'' and on full lock whem manouevering i have trouble reaching the bar ends.It might be worth loosening the 4 handlebar bolts and angling the bars towards you.If you do this,check for free movement lock to lock in the new position and torque the bolts up correctly.Good luck,Col.

 

[Marjorie Proops]

As a guide to what should be possible, I have always been able to adjust the clutch so that the engine is disengaged just before the cluth lever touches my remaining fingers on the handlebar. i.e. offroad style, two fingers pulling the lever and the clutch is operative just as the lever hits the remaining two fingers thereby enabling you to hang on to the bars with clutch operating.
Wacky

 

[Totoro]

How tall are you?.

Less than 5'10" but I've added some NN bar risers so reach is not such a problem.

Does the lever go into the deepest part of the handguard correctly?.

Good point. It does now Though clutch still bites at end of travel.

I took it to Cannons BMW garage yesterday to ask their advice. They thought that the biting point was not excessively far away but they did say that the clutch felt very heavy which may indicate that the slave cylinder is on its way out.

Looks like my clutch is ok then. I'm going to have a look at slave cylinder info.

Thanks for the advice guys

 

[Totoro]

As a guide to what should be possible, I have always been able to adjust the clutch so that the engine is disengaged just before the cluth lever touches my remaining fingers on the handlebar

Waccy. How do you achieve this? I guess you are talking about a hydralic clutch?