clutch slipping

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PLODER

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my r1200gs as done 11.500 miles and the clutch as started to slip. typically for me its not straight foward, sometimes its really bad , then , on the same day its perfectly ok . my first question is , can i adjust the small screw on the clutch lever , there is no free play on the lever at all , or after 11,500 miles does it sound like a new clutch plate . thanks for reading and i would appreciate any suggestions .

ps . when it is slipping the clutch bites when the lever is nearly fully released , then seems to go back to normal later on when everything is ok .thanks again
 
my r1200gs as done 11.500 miles and the clutch as started to slip. typically for me its not straight foward, sometimes its really bad , then , on the same day its perfectly ok . my first question is , can i adjust the small screw on the clutch lever , there is no free play on the lever at all , or after 11,500 miles does it sound like a new clutch plate . thanks for reading and i would appreciate any suggestions .

ps . when it is slipping the clutch bites when the lever is nearly fully released , then seems to go back to normal later on when everything is ok .thanks again

Make sure the handguard hasn't slipped and so is fouling the lever, there should be a little free play when flicking the lever forward:nenau

Shep
 
+make sure that bike is not weeping oil between gearbox and motor. If it is your clutch is almost certainly contaminated due to leaking seal.
Do a search on here if you are not sure what to look for - it is quite common on all bm boxers.
 
Also, check the fluid level in the reservoir. As the clutch wears, the level rises... if the level gets too high it might prevent your clutch from fully engaging? :nenau
 
Make sure the handguard hasn't slipped and so is fouling the lever, there should be a little free play when flicking the lever forward:nenau Shep

Simplest is often the best place to start :thumb

A bit like the ABS warning lights start flashing like a 70's disco and wooden brakes appear, when the right hand guard fouls the brake lever.
 
Also, check the fluid level in the reservoir. As the clutch wears, the level rises... if the level gets too high it might prevent your clutch from fully engaging? :nenau

Hi Plodder

99% certain this will be your problem - just syringe a small amount out of the master cylinder and jo's a good 'un :thumb2

Andres
 
Make sure the handguard hasn't slipped and so is fouling the lever, there should be a little free play when flicking the lever forward:nenau

Shep

99.5% sure this is your problem happened to me with 4000 om clock burnt clutch out and cost 650 squids for a new one
i was overjoyed

i always check my lever now as a pre start check
 
99.5% sure this is your problem happened to me with 4000 om clock burnt clutch out and cost 650 squids for a new one
i was overjoyed

i always check my lever now as a pre start check

Yep my dealer warned about this issue during my pick up of the new bike. Obviously doing his job well:thumb:thumb. Apparently the lever covers can get moved whilst pushing the bike about during parking.
 
This must be fate. I noticed my clutch slipping ever so slightly when two up last saturday. Have spent the last week screwing the nuts off the bike in all gears and at very inappropriate times to see if I'm not just being paranoid. Sometimes it feels like it is but more often than not it does. Unfortunately because it is not slipping big time it's hard to tell. Checked fluid level and as soon as cap was released fluid began to run down the outside of the resevoir. Extracted some to allow an air gap betweem lid and fluid and then tried again. Seemed okay to start with but then the bike started the dreaded rough running where the tickover fluctuated between 500 and 2000 revs before cutting out when pulled up. Tried resetting FPS on several occassions to no avail. Decided to ride to dealer for a quick look and within 200 yards the engine started to behave. Still think the clutch is slipping so spoke to dealer on the phone and he stated that the engines do that(weird running) from time to time (it's my second time in 3 years) and could offer no cure. As for the clutch, he said if it has gone I'm to expect a bill of between £500 and £600 pounds. What with 24K service due in 1000 miles I am seriously considering a new Varadero (sorry!). Help me someone before I get rid of the most fun bike I've ever had.:confused::confused::nenau
 
This must be fate. I noticed my clutch slipping ever so slightly when two up last saturday. Have spent the last week screwing the nuts off the bike in all gears and at very inappropriate times to see if I'm not just being paranoid. Sometimes it feels like it is but more often than not it does. Unfortunately because it is not slipping big time it's hard to tell. Checked fluid level and as soon as cap was released fluid began to run down the outside of the resevoir. Extracted some to allow an air gap betweem lid and fluid and then tried again. Seemed okay to start with but then the bike started the dreaded rough running where the tickover fluctuated between 500 and 2000 revs before cutting out when pulled up. Tried resetting FPS on several occassions to no avail. Decided to ride to dealer for a quick look and within 200 yards the engine started to behave. Still think the clutch is slipping so spoke to dealer on the phone and he stated that the engines do that(weird running) from time to time (it's my second time in 3 years) and could offer no cure. As for the clutch, he said if it has gone I'm to expect a bill of between £500 and £600 pounds. What with 24K service due in 1000 miles I am seriously considering a new Varadero (sorry!). Help me someone before I get rid of the most fun bike I've ever had.:confused::confused::nenau

Clutch slip, IMO is something you don't have to go searching for, its normally very evident. There is a possibility the the plate has been glazed when the fault was current and now the fault is fixed it may take some time to deglaze:nenau

Of course this will matter little if there is contamination on the plate in which case its a new clutch job:(

Shep
 
Clutch slip, IMO is something you don't have to go searching for, its normally very evident. There is a possibility the the plate has been glazed when the fault was current and now the fault is fixed it may take some time to deglaze:nenau

Of course this will matter little if there is contamination on the plate in which case its a new clutch job:(

Shep

As the man says - 24000 miles seems somewhat early for a clutch to wear unless you have little or no mechanical sympathy/soley use it for commuting in the big smoke.

When it does come to replacement time either do it yourself (not tooooo hard, just a PITA) or get it done cheaper by an independant.

Andres
 
thanks everyone for your advice . i have taken a small amount of fluid out of master cyclinder and what better reason to go out for a ride tomorrow to make sure all ok . thanks again .
 
THANKS GUYS!!!!!!!

I LOVE this site!

Got back from a very chilly ride about an hour ago, absolutely sick as a parrot. The engine had started racing when I was mid overtake - I thought maybe I'd hit some ice or something (but didn't feel like the back stepped out at all!). The penny dropped when I got the next ot in, engine raced again...clutch slip big time :-(

Bike's only got 17K on the clock, I've always been very gentle on the clutch, so was hacked off beyond belief.

I actually looked on here to get an indication of cost, but found this thread and thought I'd better check the handguard and/or fluid level before doing owt else. IT WAS THE HANDGUARD!!! I'd not have thought to look at that in a month of Sundays! :thumb:thumb:thumb

Thanks so much guys, you've really made my day:beerjug:
 
This must be fate. I noticed my clutch slipping ever so slightly when two up last saturday. Have spent the last week screwing the nuts off the bike in all gears and at very inappropriate times to see if I'm not just being paranoid. Sometimes it feels like it is but more often than not it does. Unfortunately because it is not slipping big time it's hard to tell. Checked fluid level and as soon as cap was released fluid began to run down the outside of the resevoir. Extracted some to allow an air gap betweem lid and fluid and then tried again. Seemed okay to start with but then the bike started the dreaded rough running where the tickover fluctuated between 500 and 2000 revs before cutting out when pulled up. Tried resetting FPS on several occassions to no avail. Decided to ride to dealer for a quick look and within 200 yards the engine started to behave. Still think the clutch is slipping so spoke to dealer on the phone and he stated that the engines do that(weird running) from time to time (it's my second time in 3 years) and could offer no cure. As for the clutch, he said if it has gone I'm to expect a bill of between £500 and £600 pounds. What with 24K service due in 1000 miles I am seriously considering a new Varadero (sorry!). Help me someone before I get rid of the most fun bike I've ever had.:confused::confused::nenau

this sums up my expieriance of me v strom v bmw [exept mine was a1200] quite well :eek:
clutch failure... fual pump x2 .... brake faiure.... overheating.... flat battery/s ..... jammed throttle [very dangerouse red line jobby ] err fual pump ..oh and a fual pump as well as the fual pump ...... zzzzzzzzz
between the vara [02]and the strom [06 ]nothings rusted fallen off broken or in any way given me trouble
..... the sevicing costs three tubs of oil three filters on set of pads never had to contact the dealer or claim ..not even a blown bulb and the strom is a better road bike and 6thousand quid cheaper ????i do not joke ... 14 months on normal service [japan] has been resumed i have confidence in opening the garage door .. i even bought the dl650 to go with the dl 1000 just to go to work on
the 1200s a nice bike but very ...over priced and overated it would take avery committed 12 pilot to overtake the dl 650 strom on the backroad gp i kid not [a cracking little bike ] its not the idea i know but just an example of whats out there .. and the cost is minute to gs ownership and these bikes really are just as much fun
bmw will have to clean up there act before they tempt me near again ...
picture paints a thousand words ect

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZHjOTN3xOOk&feature=related
 
this sums up my expieriance of me v strom v bmw [exept mine was a1200] quite well :eek:
clutch failure... fual pump x2 .... brake faiure.... overheating.... flat battery/s ..... jammed throttle [very dangerouse red line jobby ] err fual pump ..oh and a fual pump as well as the fual pump ...... zzzzzzzzz
between the vara [02]and the strom [06 ]nothings rusted fallen off broken or in any way given me trouble
..... the sevicing costs three tubs of oil three filters on set of pads never had to contact the dealer or claim ..not even a blown bulb and the strom is a better road bike and 6thousand quid cheaper ????i do not joke ... 14 months on normal service [japan] has been resumed i have confidence in opening the garage door .. i even bought the dl650 to go with the dl 1000 just to go to work on
the 1200s a nice bike but very ...over priced and overated it would take avery committed 12 pilot to overtake the dl 650 strom on the backroad gp i kid not [a cracking little bike ] its not the idea i know but just an example of whats out there .. and the cost is minute to gs ownership and these bikes really are just as much fun
bmw will have to clean up there act before they tempt me near again ...
picture paints a thousand words ect

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZHjOTN3xOOk&feature=related

Looks like I'm about to join you in the ranks of the rather disappointed former 1200GS owners and get me a Varadero. . .
. . . .
I have to wait until BMW eventually get round to supplying a new VIN plate. Can;t really trade it in without one . . . . .

Might hav to fit new pipes on the Vara though, that way it might at least sound fast.....
 
Looks like I'm about to join you in the ranks of the rather disappointed former 1200GS owners and get me a Varadero. . .
. . . .
I have to wait until BMW eventually get round to supplying a new VIN plate. Can;t really trade it in without one . . . . .

Might hav to fit new pipes on the Vara though, that way it might at least sound fast.....


it aint slow by any means ...... but its a hand full on the hairpins .......[ hypro springs ]
but running normally its quick [ big trailie terms ]
vee strom with a few cheap mods is a real tool [40 kgms less weight ] but when set upwith raising links decent tyres coupled with that engine and a de resricter its a real big trailie tool ....v fast .. read /research / modify... and be patiant ..... takes alittle figuring out the newer one s with abs would be a bargain of the century 6 months old ...:D
theres nothing at all the gs does better if you ride on the road [brakes maby ..if they dont fail ...sic ]

i think the strom is the most underated bike of all ...rated by people who ride sports bikes for a living at 4900 qid to buy [fully loaded ] 14 months on ... its a brilliant bike
off roader .. buy a 225serrow for 900 quid .. dont forget to leave the 900 quid paniers and fire extinquisher:eek: behind ffs

 
Looks like I'm about to join you in the ranks of the rather disappointed former 1200GS owners and get me a Varadero. . .
. . . .
I have to wait until BMW eventually get round to supplying a new VIN plate. Can;t really trade it in without one . . . . .

Might hav to fit new pipes on the Vara though, that way it might at least sound fast.....

Get yourself a KTM 990. That way you have Jap levels of reliability but with a bike that performs too. :hide:hide
 


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