Clutch Switch Failure

dlevett

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Anybody know if clutch switch failure is a common problem?

I take it that the switch has failed - if the bike is stalled, it can not be re-started (no starter) until it is put into neutral. When you pull the prake lever in, you can here the switch operating (and of course the brake light comes on when the ignition is on), but you can't here the switch operating when the clutch is pulled in.

May be a daft question, but I think the clutch lever switch is faulty - any thoughts?
 
Have you given the wire a good wiggle at the bit where it goes into the clutch? Mine has an intermittent problem with this I have not as yet got around to fixing as a wiggle sorts it out.
 
It is the same switch as the front brake switch... You should be able to hear it click like the brake one... but it clicks at the "clutch lever depressed" position... (brake one clicks when you first move the brake lever)

If you can't hear it click... it rigs with a little allen key... presses up against an anvil... try moving the switch in while pulling on the clutch... see if you can ear it click... tighten the allen key when done...

Al...
 
No idea if it's a common problem but mine didn't work and when the gear indicator went belly up there was no way of starting the bike (recovery truck job) as (I presume) the bike thought it was in gear.

My local dealer replaced gear indicator (apparently the bike now starts) and the clutch switch itself but that hasn't cured the clutch switch problem. They are now trying to find a lead that needs replacing and BMW are being slow.

Haven't seen the bike in three weeks...:nenau
 
My clutch switch fell to bits as I was riding along, being replaced next week at service. Like to start the bike in gear occasionaly when loaded up as sometimes best to have two feet down on a loose surface when pulling off. You cant jumper the switch to get it to work, I tried.
 
What did you try?

The front brake switch is rigged "on" and pulling in the brake relaxes the pressure on the switch... so to jumper the front brake switch you would just unplug it... (but then you'd be without brake lights...)

So... when trying to bypass the clutch switch, did you try to leave it open? (Unplug the wire)

Al...
 
What did you try?

The front brake switch is rigged "on" and pulling in the brake relaxes the pressure on the switch... so to jumper the front brake switch you would just unplug it... (but then you'd be without brake lights...)

So... when trying to bypass the clutch switch, did you try to leave it open? (Unplug the wire)

Al...

Are you quite sure about this? I don't think it's right. I think you are confusing the mechanical operation with the electrical operation. It releases the switch and makes contact.

The Clutch switches on GS12s are small and easily blocked by dirt. IE you pull the lever but the switch stays put. If you take it to bits and clean it, (an 5 min job) it might work again like mine did.
 
Are you quite sure about this? I don't think it's right. I think you are confusing the mechanical operation with the electrical operation. It releases the switch and makes contact.

The Clutch switches on GS12s are small and easily blocked by dirt. IE you pull the lever but the switch stays put. If you take it to bits and clean it, (an 5 min job) it might work again like mine did.

Just checked my spare (I broke one with a simple zero speed drop with my panniers on and had to rebuild it on the road... so I kept it as a spare)

mechanical switch relaxed = contacts open... Mechanical switch flexed = contacts closed... and when it's rigged, brake lever released... the mechanical switch is flexed...

So... ya... I'm sure about this... dunno about the clutch, but I think the switches are the same part...

Al...
 
I have just changed mine (9 year old R1100R) - it's a bit of a pig to be honest and you have to destroy it take it out!:aidan
 
1100r/850r clutch switches are pretty different to the 1200's Nicos.

I'm a bit surprised at what you say Araspitfire, but you've checked it and I aint so there. You must be right.
Gosh I am surprised they did it that way, but I spose it does make quite a lot of sense if you think about it. Self testing on start up, fail safe etc etc.

Consider my hat removed in your general direction.
 
I came upon this knowledge in Norway, at the side of the road... after smashing that little micro switch in half with a zero speed drop....

I ended up bending the contacts in the switch straight, lock-wiring it back together and eventually got it rigged so that it worked as new... even though I'd lost the little anvil bit when removing it... (spent an hour trying to find it on top of my engine... even removed the tank a bit during a coffee stop... but made due without when the rest of the group expressed impatience (If it seems I'm proud of this it's because this is my first BMW, and I figured out how to do it all on the side of the road with only a bit of remembered reading here and ADV =-))

It does make it fail-safe... With the wire shorted, or switch pulled out, or brake lever depressed... you get servo failure... with the wire open... If the switch doesn't actuate the first time you hit the brakes, you get a warning light telling you you have no brake light, and to use the pedal... But the brakes pass the startup test and servos come online...

Al...
 
Clutch Switch Failure
Anybody know if clutch switch failure is a common problem?

Had this problem on mine, 06 model ex bmw off road school bike with only 2000 miles on it. Started to find the fault(cutting out on the move,not starting in gear) by looking at the vunerable parts first, the side stand cut out switch.After 2 visits to Bristol BMW one repair,then a new switch, but still had the fault of not starting in gear. then turned to the clutch switch,
2 hours in Bristol BMW (3rd visit) on the diagnostic machine all now seems well.
 


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