I've got a BMW workshop manual and the Haynes one, is there much point in getting the Clymer as well?
Clymer manual
- Thread starter John Roberts
- Start date
solidstate100
Registered user
I doubt it. Too many different manuals, some current, some potentially out of date etc causes more confusion than it solves. Anyway, after enough time working on them you probably wont need any of them.....
Canuck
Registered user
I'm sure you know it already, but some of the torque values are not entirely accurate... so I always try to confirm with online sites before cranking on something that looks delicate.
Do you mean they are wrong in Clymer?
Canuck
Registered user
From what I gather it makes no difference which manual you use... some things may be wrong. Unfortunately, I do no know which ones off the top of my head so I tend to google such as :
Torque value tightening clutch bolts r80 site:bmwmotorcycletech.info
This string will search for the words (torque value tightening clutch bolts) on snowbums site. Though snowbums site can be a hard and long read... I think a lot of people regard it as pretty accurate. If you change the ending to site:ukger.com it will search only ukgser site, or type site:advrider.com to search the advrider site. There are many good sites that have a lot of detail about these bikes so I would first perhaps try torque value tightening clutch bolts r80 without and ending site: blah blah blah. This would then search the whole 'web'.
I had made up a spread sheet with the torque values for my 1150 but have yet to do with with the airheads yet...so though the searching takes times, you would only ever have to do it once, build your 'master list' of accepted values and then print off a copy to keep in your manual or on a USB when travelling. Some people will say that they never use a torque wrench and everything is fine but I like to use the recommended torque, particularly on wheel nuts and bits and bobs in the motor/heads and handle bars.
Torque value tightening clutch bolts r80 site:bmwmotorcycletech.info
This string will search for the words (torque value tightening clutch bolts) on snowbums site. Though snowbums site can be a hard and long read... I think a lot of people regard it as pretty accurate. If you change the ending to site:ukger.com it will search only ukgser site, or type site:advrider.com to search the advrider site. There are many good sites that have a lot of detail about these bikes so I would first perhaps try torque value tightening clutch bolts r80 without and ending site: blah blah blah. This would then search the whole 'web'.
I had made up a spread sheet with the torque values for my 1150 but have yet to do with with the airheads yet...so though the searching takes times, you would only ever have to do it once, build your 'master list' of accepted values and then print off a copy to keep in your manual or on a USB when travelling. Some people will say that they never use a torque wrench and everything is fine but I like to use the recommended torque, particularly on wheel nuts and bits and bobs in the motor/heads and handle bars.
Beemerboff
Registered user
Both are a bit loose in the torque area in that by convention torque values are given as on clean and dry threads, unless otherwise noted, but they don't always remind you to clean and dry threads like cylinder head studs and nuts which will probably not be clean or dry.
Some versions of the Honda common service manual have a excellent section on fasteners and torque, etc, and it is worth a read if you can find it.
And sometimes they both suggest using anti seize, but don't remind you to reduce the torque 25/30% to account for the wet thread.
FWIW Loctite doesn't need any reduction, it is formulated to use the same torque.
Haynes will probably do you for everything you should sensibly be tackling, and his advice on what should be left alone is usually sound, despite what you may read elsewhere on the net.
Some versions of the Honda common service manual have a excellent section on fasteners and torque, etc, and it is worth a read if you can find it.
And sometimes they both suggest using anti seize, but don't remind you to reduce the torque 25/30% to account for the wet thread.
FWIW Loctite doesn't need any reduction, it is formulated to use the same torque.
Haynes will probably do you for everything you should sensibly be tackling, and his advice on what should be left alone is usually sound, despite what you may read elsewhere on the net.
Like what, for instance?
Beemerboff
Registered user
Final drives, for one.
Every thread I have seen on rebuilding them has been absolute drivel, yet most remain unquestioned.
Every thread I have seen on rebuilding them has been absolute drivel, yet most remain unquestioned.
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