Coaxing an oil head to life after a long period of standing idle?

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Evening all

I’ve acquired an 1150GSA from a friend who’s sadly had a stroke.
It was ridden regularly up to about 18 months ago and has been stood since then.

Now then....it’s 10 years and more since I’ve owned an oil head so my skills are somewhat poor to shite.

I’ll be ordering a new battery for it, this one doesn’t seem to hold a charge. When I turn the key to the on position, there isn’t the expected “whirr” from the fuel pump.

It came with a set of new plugs and filters, it was due a service when he had the stroke. I know that the fuel lines will need changing and there’s a ton of cosmetic work that I expected (it’s done 85k but it came with all previous MOT’s and a bunch of receipts/ service stamps to 40k)

So to the point.....apart from being gentle and methodical, what’s the received wisdom in what to especially be aware of when coaxing the old girl back to life?

Cheers muchly
 
as you say new battery and fresh fuel ,it should go,but if it dosnt try a squirt of easystart in the air filter tube as the starter button is pressed
 
whilst changing fuel take the tank off, new fuel filter and check hoses whilst in there. New oil all round, bleed brakes. And off you go..
 
I'd have to check on mine, but IIRC you don't get the 'whirr' and it won't start if the sidestand is down. 18months of standing shouldn't cause any significant issues I wouldn't have thought.
*edit: mine's an 1100 not an 1150...
 
If you do fit the new plugs, spin the engine over a few times, with the plugs out, to circulate some oil.
 
Yes, +1 for Eliminator's recommendation. Get some (new?) oil around the system before starting it - possibly a quick squirt of WD or ACF down the bores before spinning it so its not absolutey dry. To be honest, as others have said, it'll fine, but I'm a great one for trying to be sympathetic to an engine thats been sitting a while.

Once running, there are a few small 'fettles' to do - check fuel filler drain hole is clear (so rainwater doesn't end up in the tank), no harm in bleeding the brake fluid if you have the time and inclination, At some point, check your clutch fluid colour - if its not nice and clean, then either the hydraulic line is degrading, or the clutch actuator piston seal is going. Will probably be ok, but if it is dirty, something to keep your eye on and include under 'future maintenance'. I've got to do my actuator and hydraulic line which i think should have been braided for the GSA, but on mine isn't (may have been replaced before) as my fluid is grey and 'orrible. Clutch works fine, but by all accounts, one day, at a junction, the signs are that it won't be.
 
I've read on here a few times where guys have claimed the clutch fluid is knackered because it's black or discoloured but the clutch fluid I bought from my main dealer was/is very dark, almost black, from brand new. What have I missed?
 
I've read on here a few times where guys have claimed the clutch fluid is knackered because it's black or discoloured but the clutch fluid I bought from my main dealer was/is very dark, almost black, from brand new. What have I missed?

He's stuck a clutch fluid sticker over some old engine oil he's had on the shelf for years;:D:beerjug:
 
I've read on here a few times where guys have claimed the clutch fluid is knackered because it's black or discoloured but the clutch fluid I bought from my main dealer was/is very dark, almost black, from brand new. What have I missed?

I’ve honestly never seen clutch or brake fluid that is this colour - it’s always been golden and clear. On the R1150s, unlike the later bikes which use a specifically different fluid for the clutch, I’m quite sure it should be plain old lovely DOT4 as with the brake fluid. 2nd or 3rd pint of the evening kind of golden shade....

Far be it from a main dealer to sell any kind of weird snake oil (also not so good for clutches) / old cast offs..used engine oil!
 


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