Coding new TPMS/RDC Sensors with GS911(Legacy)

Magwych

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I have spent a couple of days trying to get replacement ture pressure sensors working with little success. That is, until today 😁
The sensors were cheap AliExpress items so I was not expecting much. The process, however, was failing before the sensors could even be expected to work.
I am using my "old" GS911 interface, the yellow-bodied one, which I bought back when it was first launched. The PC software that is required for this interface was failing whenever I tried to manually add the sensor IDs. The error reported is "Negative response from controller : request out of range" - not particularly informative.
I have been doing a lot of reading on the subject and pieced together a few nuggets of wisdom to complete the task...
First off, is that when adding sensors they must be done in a very specific order, if the controller allows 2 sets of wheels the order is front set A, rear set A, rear set B, front set B. The logic is based on a car it seems, starting with the front left wheel then working around the vehicle anti-clockwise.
Second, and very important, is to ignore the error "request is out of range" on the first sensor; continue adding the second sensor, when that is done both sensirs will be added. I spent hours trying to get past the error, I had assumed that the 7 digit IDs provided with the AliExpress units were duff. So, I was experimenting with the IDs from online examples, which also failed until I hit on the solution.
If you just update existing IDs, it may work better, without errors. I had deleted the original sensors because they were dead, and repairs seem to be short lived.
The process is :

Clear the pressure sensors, one by one :
In tyre Pressure Monitors -> Tyre Pressure Sensor Learning
Click on Advanced
In this order : rear B, front B, rear A, Front A click on "Clear learned sensor ID", then click on Advanced until all IDs are gone.
Now clock on Advanced again, click on the "Front Sensor A" radio button - it is selected by default. Type the ID in the box, the click on "Write sensir ID", that will throw the "negative response ....request out of range" error. Ignore it, click on Ok then click on Advanced again.
In the box, click on the "Rear sensor A" radio button, type the rear sensor ID and then "Write sensor ID".
The 2 sensor IDs that had been added now show up.
For those of us that have bikes that support 2 wheel sets, set B must be done in the order of "Rear sensor B" then "Front sensor B"
 
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If you only have one pair of sensors coded to the ECU you do not need a GS911 to code the second set.
When you wake the sensors up they will write their codes to the ECU for the second set of wheels.
You will probably need the wake up tool for the sensors, there are alternative ways to wake them up by I have never had any success , only with the wake up tool.
Wake up tool is cheap and available from Aliexpress / Ebay.
I have never had a problem with Chinese sensors.
For GS911 Go to the Hexcode website and download the " downloader" software, then use it to download and install the GS911 software.
Handy having the GS911 as you can see the codes being written to the ECU and make a note of the codes should you wish to enter them manually in the future.
 
If you only have one pair of sensors coded to the ECU you do not need a GS911 to code the second set.
When you wake the sensors up they will write their codes to the ECU for the second set of wheels.
You will probably need the wake up tool for the sensors, there are alternative ways to wake them up by I have never had any success , only with the wake up tool.
Wake up tool is cheap and available from Aliexpress / Ebay.
I have never had a problem with Chinese sensors.
For GS911 Go to the Hexcode website and download the " downloader" software, then use it to download and install the GS911 software.
Handy having the GS911 as you can see the codes being written to the ECU and make a note of the codes should you wish to enter them manually in the future.
Er, thanks, I think.
I only have one set of sensors , the new ones that I bought. After a 60km ride they had not been recognised.
I do have GS911, I bought into the concept right at the beginning and have had much use out of it. I did mention that so I am confused why you are telling me how to install the software ?
I don't have a sensor wake up tool; having GS911 and the sensor IDs I should not need a wake up tool. I persisted with GS911 because it should do this and the cheaper wake up tools would just adf anither unreliabke variable into the mix.
Once I worked out how to get around the reported errors and the correct sequence it was easy, it then took less than 100m to get the pressure reading showing on the dashboard.
I write this up so that others in the sane biat don't give up and waste money if they have the required tools.
 
Sorry about the reply, for some reason I only got the first 3 lines of your post up to " The PC software that is required"
Now that I have your full post I can understand why my reply looks confusing.
I use 2 sets of wheels cast (winter) Spokes ( summer) But have not had to program sensors in any order I delete a code in say rear set B fit the new sensor and wake it up with the tool and it writes the code to the ECU.
Many years ago when the Chinese sensors were first available a friend with a very expensive gadget tried to recover the codes for me as they did not come with the sensors. some did not work it was not until a while later when I got a wake up tool that on waking up they automatically wrote the codes to the ECU and they were different to the ones that I had been given.
The wake up tool was about £6 and I often wake the sensors up before riding as a quick check.
I have not got around to trying this but I feel that I would be able to wake sensors up without fitting them just to test them. ( obviously wont get a pressure reading but might get the temperature reading) :nenau
 
Sorry about the reply, for some reason I only got the first 3 lines of your post up to " The PC software that is required"
Now that I have your full post I can understand why my reply looks confusing.
I use 2 sets of wheels cast (winter) Spokes ( summer) But have not had to program sensors in any order I delete a code in say rear set B fit the new sensor and wake it up with the tool and it writes the code to the ECU.
Many years ago when the Chinese sensors were first available a friend with a very expensive gadget tried to recover the codes for me as they did not come with the sensors. some did not work it was not until a while later when I got a wake up tool that on waking up they automatically wrote the codes to the ECU and they were different to the ones that I had been given.
The wake up tool was about £6 and I often wake the sensors up before riding as a quick check.
I have not got around to trying this but I feel that I would be able to wake sensors up without fitting them just to test them. ( obviously wont get a pressure reading but might get the temperature reading) :nenau
I think the main difference is that you have the codes already there. Delete one and replace it with another definitely works.
If you have no codes set for one set of wheeks, be it A or B, then version 2301.1 of the GS911 program will throw the "request out of range" error when you add the first ID. Only when you add the second ID does it all start working.
I had removed all IDs as a starting pont and only have one set of wheels
This is something that HEX ought to address as a bug in their program, but probably won't.
As far as I know this behaviour only happens in the program for those of us that have the old yellow GS911 devices. I don't think that HEX want to support these any more, they would prefer we trade in for their current device. The program fir that device may, or may not, handle the manual addition of sensor IDs better. I am not buying into the trade-in, it gives me nothing that I don't already have and I suspect that they will do the same again at some stage with the current version .
 
FWIW I had a similar experience with Motoscan. I changed the sensor in one wheel and tried to enter the new ID but it would not take. Finally I figured out that I needed to enter both IDs to get it to work even though I was just re-entering the ID of the other wheel which was already in the RDC. This is similar enough to the GS-911 experience related above that it may be more of a Schrader RDC issue than a GS-911 or Motoscan issue.

I have tried some sensors from China and the ones I bought do work but the nut on the valve stem is so tall that it prevents mounting the snap-on air chucks on my compressor and tire gauge. Schrader makes the 3141M replacement sensor but it isn't sold here in North America (and it is a lot less expensive that the BMW part which is in fact the same part but with a BMW logo). However the Schrader 33900 programmable sensor is sold here and works with the Schrader RDC equipped BMW bikes if programmed as if it was being installed on a 2009 Saturn Astra (same as an Opel or Vauxhall over your way I think).
 
Lots of useful information here .
I have the yellow GS911 which I purchased new then had to pay for the professional upgrade so lots of ££ as I have no interest in the LC bikes so will stick with this "Legacy" one.
I agree the nut on the Chinese sensors is too long I have used nuts from old sensors or machined the Chinese sensor nuts to suit.
After reading this I will make sure that I carry on replacing one sensor at a time. I guess I was lucky with this. :)
 
My sensors turned up. So reading this post with interest.

I also noted the longer nut on these cheaper sensors. But I'm obviously on the same page as Mistercat as I immediately thought to just turn them down to match the OEM. I can post a pic of the two and give the length of the OEM nut, but not at home right now.

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My sensors turned up. So reading this post with interest.

I also noted the longer nut on these cheaper sensors. But I'm obviously on the same page as Mistercat as I immediately thought to just turn them down to match the OEM. I can post a pic of the two and give the length of the OEM nut, but not at home right now.

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Mine also had the longer nuts. Corrosion meant the old ones we U/S after removal, so I webt with the longer ones.
The other difference is the seal. The new ones had a taperedseal that was both higher and a larger diameter at the base than the old ones.
It looks like the larger seals need a larger hole in the rim to fit properly. Tightening them down, half the seal entered the hole whilst the other half deformed around it. This held the sensor further away from the rim than the originals. The stems of the sensors, old and new, are identical so I carefully removed the old seals, greasedwith silicone grease and fitted them to the new sensors. The new nut secures them well, there is enough space to get all of my tyre inflators on there - even my bicycle stirrup pump.
2024-04-0415.47.321417377541196302270.jpg
 
are they sensors for the alloy wheels that have a much thicker rim to mount too - and no doubt a different seal

I have only ever done sensors using motoscan - ride the bike the sensors wake - (easiest - use masking tape and stick on the inside rim of the back wheel of a bike on its centre stand - run it up to 30 MPH for 1 min take back to the real bike) - see what the codes are write to the ECU job done

I have given up wasting silly money on 9V batteries and fighting crap from ebay - masking tape last years and its a 10th of the cost and is 100% reliable
 
are they sensors for the alloy wheels that have a much thicker rim to mount too - and no doubt a different seal

I have only ever done sensors using motoscan - ride the bike the sensors wake - (easiest - use masking tape and stick on the inside rim of the back wheel of a bike on its centre stand - run it up to 30 MPH for 1 min take back to the real bike) - see what the codes are write to the ECU job done

I have given up wasting silly money on 9V batteries and fighting crap from ebay - masking tape last years and its a 10th of the cost and is 100% reliable
Could be, one of the downsides of using AliX is that supporting information isn't usually available. As it is, they do work. I did try a 60km ride, almost all of it it in excess of 50kph (35mph) - nothing happened. Once I worked out the undocumented process they worked immediately.
Take your pick.
 
Mine also had the longer nuts. Corrosion meant the old ones we U/S after removal, so I webt with the longer ones.
The other difference is the seal. The new ones had a taperedseal that was both higher and a larger diameter at the base than the old ones.
It looks like the larger seals need a larger hole in the rim to fit properly. Tightening them down, half the seal entered the hole whilst the other half deformed around it. This held the sensor further away from the rim than the originals. The stems of the sensors, old and new, are identical so I carefully removed the old seals, greasedwith silicone grease and fitted them to the new sensors. The new nut secures them well, there is enough space to get all of my tyre inflators on there - even my bicycle stirrup pump.
View attachment 314847
Yes. I noticed the difference in the design of the seal on these replacement units. But...I think I would just get them into the lathe and then then also if they created a problem.

Interested you were able to re-use your old seals. My front one was well past its useable lifespan. It was hard and deformed. I am convinced the rear seal is the same because the tyre is losing air, gently, so next back holiday, real wheel is coming off and I'll switch over the seal (holding the sensors until they're actually needed).



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Seal kits are available from BMW Hmmmm.... these make the Chinese sensors a bargain if only buying them for the seals.

TPMS SEAL KIT.png
 
Had the old seals not been in a good condition, i.e. no nicks, cuts or deformations, or had they leaked, I would have bought the set of seals from BMW. Unless the price here in France were ridiculous..
 
Had the old seals not been in a good condition, i.e. no nicks, cuts or deformations, or had they leaked, I would have bought the set of seals from BMW. Unless the price here in France were ridiculous..
It was more an issue of them going hard and no longer sealing, rather than nicks or damage. I kept gently tightening the nut over a period of time to create a seal, but eventually, that no longer worked...

The BMW OEM pieces are shockingly over priced

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Does it matter which TPMS wakeup tool you buy, are they a universal thing?


depends if you want them to operate or not - I bought two from a link given on this site by the one of the regular contributors

the first one operated well but kills the battery in 5 or so activation's and is now fully dead anyway (note always disconnect the battery when its not in use)

the second rattled and hardly worked - its antenna wasn't bonded in correctly - I rebuilt gluing it where it is meant to be and twice it worked as well as the other one - but was then fully dead after its 3rd activation

I now spin up on a second bike, reliable, cheaper, vastly better - and I'm a rich man not buying 9v batteries every other week - if playing with sensors already on the bike, ride it a mile above 30 mph and they wake and stay alive for 15 mins

the more reliable fake Chinese thing in the front wheel used to wake by kicking it on to full lock - another replacement wakes shaking it in my hand
 
Does it matter which TPMS wakeup tool you buy, are they a universal thing?

All tire pressure sensor wake up tools work by applying a 125 KHz signal to the sensor.

What confuses folks are the ads and descriptions that tend to cite a popular auto manufacturer so as to attract or reassure that segment of the potential purchasers and their tendency to cite as well the frequency at which the sensor transmits (315 or 433 MHz) which has nothing to do with the frequency at which it receives (125 KHz).
 
Just to add what may be helpful IME last week, I can't really remember exact sequence but I got there, pick out the bits that might help you. This thread prompted me to have another go with the Ali Express sensors that I have had in for a while.

Using the wakeup tool I move it around a few likely locations, sidewall, valve stem etc. I deleted the old sensors. The GS911 scan function found the front sensor and Front A was populated. YOU SHOULD RECORD THIS CODE IN CASE IT DISAPPEARS AGAIN :D. I started waking up Rear and at some stage Front disappeared!
In the end I scanned for REAR B and it populated and I manually entered FRONT B and it worked. FRONT A and REAR A fields are empty on my bike atm.
 


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