All the s/a components are with the engineer for their mods he is also reprofiling the brake cam to make it work the oposite way i.e the actuating arm will point upward. Adjustable footrest mounts made, ready to be welded to the frame. Steering head strengthening templates made. Paioili forks stripped ready for shortening. These forks are works of art and the precision of the damping controls amazing. Will take pictures when the parts come back. The gs tank doesnt hold enough petrol so might have to modify a larger capacity one.
Converting std R80 to off road (GS) spec
- Thread starter BigyellowGS
- Start date
Mick13
Registered user
This is now our winter story !
Keep us posted
Keep us posted
BigyellowGS
Registered user
Hmmm.. wonder how it handled with the original twin shock arm with only one shock? Surely the spread of load would be a little odd?
But... As my bikes based round a R80 mono frame.. maybe I could try it out at somepoint?
Hmmm... it might even make routing the exhaust a little easier...
But... As my bikes based round a R80 mono frame.. maybe I could try it out at somepoint?
Hmmm... it might even make routing the exhaust a little easier...
Yep did this on my post 81 s/a works fine. Any loads on the s/a are transmitted to the frame via the s/a bearings whether twin shock or single shock. Its the strength of s/a that makes the difference monos are up to 4" longer and they cope.
Your views please chaps. Being new to this forum have I "hijacked" this thread? Should I start a new one?
Chears
Chears
BigyellowGS
Registered user
Lurcher.. please feel free to hijack the thread.. Your project looks just as interesteing (if not a bit more compicated) than my simple conversion!
Hows your bike coming on?
I'm stalled now waiting for parts to arrive..
Actaully whilst I'm thinking about it... Keihan exhuats - the 2 in to 2 systems I have seen advertised for R80/100Gs's - does anyone know if these will fit (without too much fuss) my R80RT motor and t/shock set up?
I've been finding it difficult to find a suitable route for my exhausts as anything "trials" type for BM's are designed for the mono sided arm and hence hit the twin shock arm on the l/h side!
Any thoughts gentlemen?
Hows your bike coming on?
I'm stalled now waiting for parts to arrive..
Actaully whilst I'm thinking about it... Keihan exhuats - the 2 in to 2 systems I have seen advertised for R80/100Gs's - does anyone know if these will fit (without too much fuss) my R80RT motor and t/shock set up?
I've been finding it difficult to find a suitable route for my exhausts as anything "trials" type for BM's are designed for the mono sided arm and hence hit the twin shock arm on the l/h side!
Any thoughts gentlemen?
Cheers BYGS. To save time and expense use the standard down pipes and find some short silencers and have some short pipes bent up to join them. Another option is modify a gs system so that the exit pipe misses the s/a and then find a can to fit. I think the tidiest system is monoshock and 2;1 But that orange and white one looks good I know the mate of the chap who built it and could find out more specs if you want.
cheers
cheers
BigyellowGS
Registered user
Thanks Lurcher... I think Ive sorted the exhausts now..
Going to use the std front pipes and collector box.. I have made up two 38mm mild steel (at the moment for trial fitting) extension pipes that bend out from teh collector box and sweep upwards either side of the bike.. I'm then going to grab some universal "slip on" race bike silncers and fit these..
Should look okay.. maybe.. er.. we will see!
Going to use the std front pipes and collector box.. I have made up two 38mm mild steel (at the moment for trial fitting) extension pipes that bend out from teh collector box and sweep upwards either side of the bike.. I'm then going to grab some universal "slip on" race bike silncers and fit these..
Should look okay.. maybe.. er.. we will see!
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Should look okay.. maybe.. er.. we will see!
Ahem..I think we'd all like to see some more pics during these cold dark nights
BigyellowGS
Registered user
Well.. I'm going to be working on the bike again on saturday.. So I'll be posting updated piccies on sunday!
BigyellowGS
Registered user
An update (with pics)
okay.. my exhaust idea didn;t really work out.. But I did make some progess on the old girl..
Fitted:
Front mudguard (properly).
Front wheel
New "gs" trottle cables (which oddly are way to long).
New longer clutch cable
Paralever center stand
I've also tidied up the wiring (a bit - couldn't find my cable ties), changed the oil in the bevel box and refilled the driveshaft.. Also drained and refilled the fork oil.
Unfortunatly after this is where I started to hit snags..
There is distinct movement in the front wheel.. doesn't appear to be the bearings (as the spindle doesn't move when put through the wheel alone) which makes me wonder if I'm missing a spacer (or that the one I've fitted is about 1 or 2mm to short).
The battery which was fine when removed from the bike.. has gone completly flat.. And wont seem to take any charge now! (it got bloody hot when left on charge for an hour though
).
And the braided brake hose I had kicking around from an abandoned project is too short...
I pushed the old girl out into day light.. So heres a couple of pics of the progress:
But anyway.. I feel progess has been made.. and I have a new plan for my exhausts.. A set of R80/7 front pipes & crossover (doing away with the collector box).. And a set of nice shiney upswept silencers as in the piccy below)... angled up so they exit either side (near the rear light area).
Fingers crossed.. she should be on the road in a few weeks..
okay.. my exhaust idea didn;t really work out.. But I did make some progess on the old girl..
Fitted:
Front mudguard (properly).
Front wheel
New "gs" trottle cables (which oddly are way to long).
New longer clutch cable
Paralever center stand
I've also tidied up the wiring (a bit - couldn't find my cable ties), changed the oil in the bevel box and refilled the driveshaft.. Also drained and refilled the fork oil.
Unfortunatly after this is where I started to hit snags..
There is distinct movement in the front wheel.. doesn't appear to be the bearings (as the spindle doesn't move when put through the wheel alone) which makes me wonder if I'm missing a spacer (or that the one I've fitted is about 1 or 2mm to short).
The battery which was fine when removed from the bike.. has gone completly flat.. And wont seem to take any charge now! (it got bloody hot when left on charge for an hour though
).And the braided brake hose I had kicking around from an abandoned project is too short...
I pushed the old girl out into day light.. So heres a couple of pics of the progress:
But anyway.. I feel progess has been made.. and I have a new plan for my exhausts.. A set of R80/7 front pipes & crossover (doing away with the collector box).. And a set of nice shiney upswept silencers as in the piccy below)... angled up so they exit either side (near the rear light area).
Fingers crossed.. she should be on the road in a few weeks..
Always difficult to diagnose stuff without seeing it but bearing in mind (excuse pun) that the wheel should tighten up to the leg on your disc side an incorrect spacer shouldnt make any difference to the bearing it will only make a difference to the wheels position within the forks. If you have play it could be the bearings but as they are tapers you should be able to adjust/shim them.
BigyellowGS
Registered user
good point... hmm.. I seem to remember taking bearings out of BMW hubs can be a real pain in the ****... and I wont know what shim is already in there until I do.. so guess its a trip to the workshop one night and an order to motorworks...
Still I did need to order a battery & a brake pipe anyway!
Still I did need to order a battery & a brake pipe anyway!
James,
You leave the outer races in place when you check the shimming. If you are passing this way at any time I've got a full set of shims and the gear to set the preload as well as a puller for the wheel bearings if you need to swap them.
That front wheel came out of a 90/6 and was fine in the bike. Must be a spacer issue.
You leave the outer races in place when you check the shimming. If you are passing this way at any time I've got a full set of shims and the gear to set the preload as well as a puller for the wheel bearings if you need to swap them.
That front wheel came out of a 90/6 and was fine in the bike. Must be a spacer issue.
BigyellowGS
Registered user
Cheers Rob.. I'm also thinking that it might be the front spacer as there appears to be two sizes.. 18mm & 22mm...so it maybe it have the smaller of the two and hence the movement.. As its seems to be actual sideways movement in the wheel rather than sloppy bearing movement.. And these spacers are only about 50p... So I might try that..
Also I can't find much information about how to check/adjust the shims on the front wheel.. does anyone have any ideas?
Also I can't find much information about how to check/adjust the shims on the front wheel.. does anyone have any ideas?
If it is the bearings then take Robs offer otherwise it is a pain to set them. You can tell if its the spacer by measuring the gap between the rim and the fork leg, it should be equal measurement on both sides.
BigyellowGS
Registered user
Well.. another day spent in the workshop.. Not huge ammounts of progress though.
Fitted the braided front brake pipe which my friend Jon made up for me.. unfortunatly I picked the wrong angle on the caliper end connector so it sits a little oddly.. But it works!
Fitted the rear indicators
Started the old girl up (with just the original front pipes & collector box) - Lovely sound.. although the horses in the field down the lane didn't seem to happy!
Spent some time neatly cable tieing the wiring to the frame etc... Fitted new bulbs to the dashboard.. And this is where things started going wrong:
Dash lights still dont work.. (thought it was just the blown bulbs)... So I'm going to have to spend some time with the multimeter one night..
Front wheel bearing/spacer issue still isn't resolved... The wheel isn't sitting directly in the middle of the forks with the spacer I have.. So I guess it needs a bigger spacer... the one I have is 18mm.. Which I believe is correct? 17mm axle (wheel from an R90/6).. Hmmm... Unless it does need a 1 or 2mm bigger "shim" hence the wobble!
I removed the collector box & then the downpipes (by sliding them forwards out of their collars)... Found my trusty exhaust spanner only to find the two collars are rock solid.. wont budge.. Tried plusgas, then heat... but no luck.. they are stuck solid..
So I give them one good soaking in plusgas and trundled off down the pub to drown my sorrows with a nice pint of "old rosie" cider...
Fitted the braided front brake pipe which my friend Jon made up for me.. unfortunatly I picked the wrong angle on the caliper end connector so it sits a little oddly.. But it works!
Fitted the rear indicators
Started the old girl up (with just the original front pipes & collector box) - Lovely sound.. although the horses in the field down the lane didn't seem to happy!
Spent some time neatly cable tieing the wiring to the frame etc... Fitted new bulbs to the dashboard.. And this is where things started going wrong:
Dash lights still dont work.. (thought it was just the blown bulbs)... So I'm going to have to spend some time with the multimeter one night..
Front wheel bearing/spacer issue still isn't resolved... The wheel isn't sitting directly in the middle of the forks with the spacer I have.. So I guess it needs a bigger spacer... the one I have is 18mm.. Which I believe is correct? 17mm axle (wheel from an R90/6).. Hmmm... Unless it does need a 1 or 2mm bigger "shim" hence the wobble!
I removed the collector box & then the downpipes (by sliding them forwards out of their collars)... Found my trusty exhaust spanner only to find the two collars are rock solid.. wont budge.. Tried plusgas, then heat... but no luck.. they are stuck solid..
So I give them one good soaking in plusgas and trundled off down the pub to drown my sorrows with a nice pint of "old rosie" cider...
Well.. another day spent in the workshop.. Not huge ammounts of progress though.
Fitted the braided front brake pipe which my friend Jon made up for me.. unfortunatly I picked the wrong angle on the caliper end connector so it sits a little oddly.. But it works!
Fitted the rear indicators
Started the old girl up (with just the original front pipes & collector box) - Lovely sound.. although the horses in the field down the lane didn't seem to happy!
Spent some time neatly cable tieing the wiring to the frame etc... Fitted new bulbs to the dashboard.. And this is where things started going wrong:
Dash lights still dont work.. (thought it was just the blown bulbs)... So I'm going to have to spend some time with the multimeter one night..
Front wheel bearing/spacer issue still isn't resolved... The wheel isn't sitting directly in the middle of the forks with the spacer I have.. So I guess it needs a bigger spacer... the one I have is 18mm.. Which I believe is correct? 17mm axle (wheel from an R90/6).. Hmmm... Unless it does need a 1 or 2mm bigger "shim" hence the wobble!
I removed the collector box & then the downpipes (by sliding them forwards out of their collars)... Found my trusty exhaust spanner only to find the two collars are rock solid.. wont budge.. Tried plusgas, then heat... but no luck.. they are stuck solid..
So I give them one good soaking in plusgas and trundled off down the pub to drown my sorrows with a nice pint of "old rosie" cider...
PM Proff about these DON'T FORCE THEM. Apparently it's better to cut or split them so as not to damage the cylinder heads.
Val.
Thats right DO NOT FORCE THEM
Better to use a cold chisel and carefully split them.
New Nuts are £9
Head repair is minimum £70 +
DAMHIK
