I've just copper greased all bolts used for fitting the motech engine bars and givi rack. Should I be worried? I'm not clued up on the technicalities but am now slightly concerned!!
i wouldn't give it another thought.
Coppaslip and thread lock
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i wouldn't give it another thought.
rdover
Registered user
The only issue on the use of coppaslip or similar is on function critical fixings like wheels bolts.
If your engine bars loosen off it may be a problem but not a disaster like losing your rear wheel at 70mph on the motorway!
If your engine bars loosen off it may be a problem but not a disaster like losing your rear wheel at 70mph on the motorway!
i think theres such a lot of bollox talked about copaslip and loctite.
rdover
Registered user
There's a lot of bollox talked about full stop!
GSoh
Guest
don't put it on yer bollox though 
Phil Clarke
Registered user
Used coppaslip on steel bolts (and stainless steel) for years = no bother. Coppa slip is less greasy than grease so less chance of it undoing. I've spent far too much time removing siezed in and snapped off studs / bolts to not use it.
Shouldn't affect torque figures either (at least to any significant amount)
Grease those nuts folks...
Shouldn't affect torque figures either (at least to any significant amount)
Grease those nuts folks...
don't put it on yer bollox though
That sounds like a good feed line for an amusing anecdote....
Anyone want to fess up?
Want to have a laugh, grease someones car wheel change jack thread
Then watch the car come back to the ground after it's been lifted up. All due to the grease "improving" the efficiency of the jack. Can't remember the exact term but IIRC the jack depends on it being less than 50% efficient to stay up.
"Shouldn't affect the torque loading"
That sounds like a good feed line for an amusing anecdote....
Anyone want to fess up?
never had the "pleasure" of grease, but i can advise against any contact with the tackle after applying Bengay to a bad back
rdover
Registered user
Hmmmm, high-temperature resistant lubrication to stop your nuts from seizing ..... let's not go there 
Seems to me that the safe thing to do is follow BM's guidelines particulary for more critical fixings (refer to the workshop manual!!)
.........afterall, they have decades of experience, highly qualified engineers, shed loads of data to refer to, know the specifications of their bikes better than anyone, designed and tested the bikes etc etc
As for corrosion and/or ceased bolts - spray some ACF50 around the bolt head (and t'other end if it is open) AFTER it's tightened and torqued up. It will penetrate to a degree.
Mind you, I greased car wheel nuts for years and years and never had a problem...........the bike's are a different kettle of fish though, a very simple mistake can have a very nasty outcome as the guy on advrider found out
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=171791&highlight=wheel+studs
.........afterall, they have decades of experience, highly qualified engineers, shed loads of data to refer to, know the specifications of their bikes better than anyone, designed and tested the bikes etc etc
As for corrosion and/or ceased bolts - spray some ACF50 around the bolt head (and t'other end if it is open) AFTER it's tightened and torqued up. It will penetrate to a degree.
Mind you, I greased car wheel nuts for years and years and never had a problem...........the bike's are a different kettle of fish though, a very simple mistake can have a very nasty outcome as the guy on advrider found out
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=171791&highlight=wheel+studs
Half the bolts are tightening themselves as you drive along,
the other half aren't IIRC Buses and lorries have different handed threads on either side for the above reason
Cynically edited
.........wish you were wrong but it sure does seem like that sometimes!
LiquidLAN
Registered user
Thanks guys, very useful debate and one of the first times I've been able to search and find an answer here on the first hit
Just replaced the rear break pads and like a few of you here, haven't had to use threadlock in ages - that said I'm sure I've seen a tube around here somewhere...
Oh well, I guess I'll have to pop into town tomorrow and get some more - I'm guessing there isn't anything I can use as an alternative?
thanks again.
Just replaced the rear break pads and like a few of you here, haven't had to use threadlock in ages - that said I'm sure I've seen a tube around here somewhere...
Oh well, I guess I'll have to pop into town tomorrow and get some more - I'm guessing there isn't anything I can use as an alternative?
thanks again.
I get my thread lock (varied strengths) from these people....
http://www.bearingshopuk.co.uk/index.asp?function=DISPLAYCAT&catid=40
Fast service and a good range of various types and size of bottles.
http://www.bearingshopuk.co.uk/index.asp?function=DISPLAYCAT&catid=40
Fast service and a good range of various types and size of bottles.
LiquidLAN
Registered user
ok, really dumb question... I guess I haven't used threadlock before after all... so here goes...
How do you know that its worked? I tooks the bolts out with the old lock on them - I know they probably wouldnt vibrate loose as the old lock made them stiffer to remove, but once the threads cleaned and the new lock applied it slips back in like a really slippy thing. I'm pretty sure it will be ok, but is there a way to prove it? I didnt see anything on the instructions.
How do you know that its worked? I tooks the bolts out with the old lock on them - I know they probably wouldnt vibrate loose as the old lock made them stiffer to remove, but once the threads cleaned and the new lock applied it slips back in like a really slippy thing. I'm pretty sure it will be ok, but is there a way to prove it? I didnt see anything on the instructions.
Chris Terry
Registered user
You can't tell if it works until it does'nt.
A bit like the fridge door light !!
A bit like the fridge door light !!
It depends really on the strength of the compound as to whether some brute force will break the lock.
Some of the weaker compounds can be released with more leverage, others need heat to soften them. Personally, I always use some heat on any likely studs before releasing them the first time.
Most compounds need some time to cure so when they are first done-up, they can still be undone easily.
Basically think of the compound as an adhesive and just like any glue it needs time to set.
Some of the weaker compounds can be released with more leverage, others need heat to soften them. Personally, I always use some heat on any likely studs before releasing them the first time.
Most compounds need some time to cure so when they are first done-up, they can still be undone easily.
Basically think of the compound as an adhesive and just like any glue it needs time to set.
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