Correct chain adjustment!

dibbs

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So I have read the handbook and it says to put the bike on its stand! (which one centre or side?) then find the slackest spot of the chain under the swing arm, then with bike on the side stand adjust to the correct tolerances! I think 30-45mm

Could somebody give me the correct procedure for this please :confused:
 
Its best to adjust the chain at the tightest point, or you risk having the chain too tight. Think you've answered you question, "then with bike on the side stand adjust to the correct tolerances! I think 30-45mm"
 
I always use a centre stand & pay no heed to the handbook

After a while you'll soon know, what's right

Many don't

Too tight is worse than too loose
 
Adjust the chain with your bike on the side stand as per the handbook, once you have the correct adjustment put your bike on the centre stand and measure the slack and note it down. Then next time just have the bike on the centre stand and adjust the slack to the measurement you noted down.
 
chain

I've got a low suspension F700GS. 2014. and the free play on the centre stand should be 20 - 30 mm. mine was rattling and clattering on the nylon runners,
I noticed as the suspension compresses the chain goes slacker. so I adjust it to 20mm now, which actually feels tighter than I would normally have a chain, but it works ok.
 
Thanks all. A few differing answers there so im still none the wiser!!!!!!!! all the answers make sense in some way so I guess ill just have to give it a go!
 
I've got a low suspension F700GS. 2014. and the free play on the centre stand should be 20 - 30 mm. mine was rattling and clattering on the nylon runners,
I noticed as the suspension compresses the chain goes slacker. so I adjust it to 20mm now, which actually feels tighter than I would normally have a chain, but it works ok.

normally, the chain will get tighter as the suspension compresses. the tightest point is when the rear wheel spindle, swingarm pivot and drive sprocket are in alignment. this is the point that the chain needs to be at it's tightest (but not tight). too tight here and you will knock out the bearing behind the sprocket.

then there's the problem of a worn chain and sprockets having tight spots as the wheel is rotated. chain needs to be adjusted for slack at the tightest point, if any.

hopefully the manufacturers tolerance given in the manual will take account of theses things.
 
normally, the chain will get tighter as the suspension compresses. the tightest point is when the rear wheel spindle, swingarm pivot and drive sprocket are in alignment. this is the point that the chain needs to be at it's tightest (but not tight). too tight here and you will knock out the bearing behind the sprocket.

then there's the problem of a worn chain and sprockets having tight spots as the wheel is rotated. chain needs to be adjusted for slack at the tightest point, if any.

hopefully the manufacturers tolerance given in the manual will take account of theses things.

:agree

What he says :thumb

:beerjug:
 


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